Technology of Denim Production: Part-IV (Weaving Techniques for Denim)
Traditional denim fabrics are woven by interlacement of indigo dyed warp and grey weft. The sequence or order of interlacement of warp and weft may be varied in order to produce different denim weave designs. Although the traditional denim is a 3/1 RHT warp faced fabrics, a variety of denim fabric are made with different weave designs, such as 2/1 twill weave, broken twill, zig-zag twill, reverse twill etc. Today, denim fabrics are also manufactured with fancy design in order to meet the latest fashion. Denim fabrics normally made of weight range of 6.5 to 15.5 oz per sq. yd.
The classical denim fabrics are made with open end rotor yarn in both warp and weft direction. However, ring yarn, ply yarn, filament yarn, lycra core yarn, slub yarn are extensively used in denim to achieve some special effect, luster, smoothness and comfort in denim products.
The properties of denim finished fabric largely depends upon the fabric construction. The warp and weft count influence several fabric properties such as weight, fabric tightness, cover, drape, hand, tensile strength, tear strength, and other fabric properties. All these parameters influence the durability and comfort of denim garments.
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The author is Manager (TQM) at Shri Lakshmi Cotsyn Limited, UPSIDC Industrial Area, Malwan, Dist. Fatehpur, UP