The Man Made Textiles Research Association, Surat, India
Review of Literature
Modal is new regenerated cellulosic fibre. When dyeing modulated viscose-containing fabrics, it is essential that aesthetic properties are preserved or even enhanced by the dyeing process used. Dyes whose application procedures are prone to reprocessing due to unlevelness or poor shade reproducibility will inevitably have an adverse effect on the physical properties of the fabric1,2. Liquid-ammonia treatment of lyocell has been reported3 but NH3 treatment of lyocell is not said to be effective for the improvement of 'hand'. The production of easy-care Tencel fabrics by liquid-ammonia treatment and silicone finishing has been discussed in one publication10. However, in order to diversify the market, there is a need to develop a piece-dyeing process in open-width form, with high degree of fabric-rope orientation, to avoid damages due to rope marks, creases, shrinkage and fibrillation. Dress material made of the will have high export potential. Little work has been reported in the area of processing of modal from this point of view.
Among the various man-made regenerated cellulosic fibres, modal has achieved a prominent place. Fabrics woven from viscose fibres have always been a fashion designer's delight, due to their excellent drape, lustre, softness, absorbency and colour brilliance. But the technology for chemical processing of modal-based fabrics is not well established at the shop floor. In our preliminary study of the processing of modal fabrics by conventional techniques, including the tapela process as well as the long-tube soft-flow process, we found that, as modal fibres swell to a higher extent, the fabric movement in rope form as well as package form was difficult. The crease marks were predominant and uneven shrinkage was to the extent of 8 to 11%. Therefore, in the present study, process was optimized on a jigger in open-width form. Dimensional stability of modal fabrics in terms of residual shrinkage was 3.1% and 2.8%, warp as weft-wise, respectively.
The authors are associated with The Man Made Textiles Research Association, Surat, India
Authors acknowledge with thanks the management of MANTRA for giving permission to publish this paper.