Abstract

Spirality is a particularly serious problem for single jersey knitted fabrics due to their asymmetrical loop formation. This paper focuses on spirality of the single jersey knitted fabrics as key aspects. This paper investigates different studies such as the effect of Yarn tension, No. of feeders, and Stitch length on the spirality of single jersey knitted fabrics. The paper also explicitly determines the theoretical approach to the causes and remedies of spirality. The paper also focuses on the effect of fabric weight on the spirality of single jersey fabrics at both stages, i.e., gray and finished state. The results of this study have concluded that the spirality increases strongly when increasing the no. of working feeders with constant machine diameter. The result also concludes that the stitch length and yarn tension also influence fabric spirality. There is a direct relationship between fabric spirality and yarn tension observed by keeping other factors constant. The study also concludes that stitch length is inversely proportional to fabric spirality. Fabric spirality is minimized up to 50% after the finishing process as compared to its gray stage spirality.

Key words

Single jersey, Spirality, Twist factor, GSM, Stitch length, knitting tension

Introduction

The ever-increasing demand for knitted apparels has attracted attention in the global niche market. In comparison to woven garments, around 50% of the clothing needs are met by knitted goods. It is well known that weft knitted fabrics tend to undergo certain dimensional changes that cause distortion in which there is a tendency of the knitted loops to bend over, causing the wales to be at a diagonal instead of perpendicular to the courses.

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The authors are associated with the Centre for textile functions (CTF), NMIMS MPSTME Shirpur campus, Shirpur, Dist- Dhule, Maharashtra.