Construction and Development of Double Cloth with 2 Distinct Jacquard Patterns without any Design Impact
Construction of Jacquard Designs:
The construction of jacquard designs include the preparation of a card cutting plan on squared paper, which in most cases when an ordinary jacquard is used shows the complete working of every thread in the repeat. As opposed to the above system of detailed designing there exist forms of condensed design preparation where only the main motif is shown in block outline, and where the detailed weaves for each part of the motif.
In general the detailed form of designing in the point-paper may be constructed from a basic artwork or original sketch, of which the woven sample is required to be reproduced.
Here assume that we involve an enlargement of the design and the degree of increase in size varying is in the same pitch of design paper.
It is a good method to decide upon a number of ends for a repeat which is a multiple of several smaller numbers, and to use this number for cloths which vary slightly in fineness.
The formula is:
Hooks in jacquard x sett of warp in reed
sett of harness
Gives the number of ends upon which the design should be made in order that the warp will be perfectly straight between the harness and the reed.
Development of Figures:
After a figure has been correctly painted the next process is usually to insert suitable weaves upon it. The designs should be selected with the following objects in view: (1) To produce a good compact fabric without any distraction the allover designs in which the threads arc interwoven to such a degree that they are not liable to slip or fray when the fabric is subjected to strain and friction (2) To develop the figure in such a manner that the form is shown two distinct designs for aesthetic variation.
Prevention of Long Floats:
In some designs given in the form breaks up the mass of the figure to such a degree that binding weave is required to be inserted either for stopping the floats of yarn or for developing the effect.
Methods and Procedure:
After the number of ends and picks required for one repeat of the design has been decided upon, the double cloth construction may be divided into the following processes:
The fabric construction I choose is 168 EPI and 160 PPI (80 + 80) and 60s warp and 40s weft.
(1) The Intersection of two distinct designs was selected by considering the warp satin of the top fabric (Pic1) and weft sateen of the bottom fabric (pic 2) which were marked with green color in the Pic 1.
(2) The figure of first design should lap over the second with distinct color which is strong yet transparent in Photoshop.
(3) The necessary design area which is intersects of both design areas were selected with the marquee tool.
(4) The ground weave is preferably being in white.
The weaves in the figure and ground of two different respective designs are correctly analyzed and reproduced in the new design.
Insertion of Ground Weaves:
The difference in appearance between the figure and ground of Pic.1 design is due chiefly to contrasting weave development of the two areas; the distinction should always be sufficiently pronounced for the figure to show clearly.
Design paper can be purchased upon which the most commonly used ground weaves are Plain and Twill (pic 4)
Joining Of Figures with Ground:
Using design papers of two graph sheet (pic 1 and pic 2) the design weaves were shown.
In pic 1 the green color shown is the intersection of top and bottom fabric which would be played as a binding cloth. The weave in this area should note that the bottom fabric weft only should intersect with top fabric warp yarn. In this case the inter binding between the fabric will get hidden.
The (pic 3) shown is combined of these two graph in such a way that ends and picks are alternative with each other.
The fabric was developed and woven as a swatch is shown below.
The Fabric thread count or the cover factor of the woven fabric will involves in the characterization of design impact between the two fabrics