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The 'Global market review of lingerie
and intimate apparel - forecasts to 2017 predicts that the lingerie market at
retail prices will be worth $29.23billion in 2012, and it will rise to
$30.55billion over the next five years. From the entry of large international
brands in India and available choices of Indian women, it is evident that the
Indian Lingerie industry is witnessing robust growth. The key factors driving
Indian lingerie market is the increasing size of the organized retail, changing
lifestyle, growing consumer class, growing urbanization, and increasing per
capita disposable income. The biggest retailed lingerie item is the bra. Innovative
bras are able to be created due to changes in technology and the variety of
fabrics now available to designers, such as laser cut seamless bras and molded
t-shirt bras. The vast majority of bras on the market now are under wired.
Know-how about wires and its manufacturing methods are little known to all.
Majority of bras on the market now are underwired. Know-how about wires and its
manufacturing methods are little known to all.
An under wire bra is
brassiere that utilizes a semi-circular,
thin strip of rigid material fitted inside the brassiere fabric. A
semi-circular "underwire", "bra wire", or "wire" is
embedded in the wire channel that circles the bottom and sides of each cup. One
end of the underwire is close to the armhole while the other end, or head
element, is close to the front and center of the bra.
under wires are made of metal or molded plastic. Plastic underwire has a very
small share of the market because it does not provide the same support and
rigidity offered by metal underwire.A metallic underwire is a thin strip of
metal, usually with a nylon coating at both ends. About 70 percent of women use
under wires made of steel. Nylon
coated galvanized steel under wires are more popular in the market.
It is known to provide under wires with tips at the ends thereof
to prevent the underwire from poking through the fabrication of the brassieres
and injuring the wearer.
Color-coded powder tips
are made for easy identification of sizes in the sewing floor and handling
A method of making brassiere under wires comprises the following
(a) forming a continuous strand of a harden
able material and applying at spaced-apart locations there along, corresponding
to desired lengths of brassiere under wires, pairs of thermoplastic
brassiere-underwire tips each surrounding the strand;
(b) To separate into successive lengths, cutting
the strand between the tips of each pair, each having respective
brassiere-underwire tips at extremities
(c) Hardening the material of the shaped
lengths after shaping each of said lengths into curved underwire shape in a
(d) Tipping and Colour coding at the ends for
It requires special machines and techniques.
Apart from ordinary machines, advanced types of machines with PC
interface and touch screen facilities are also used for wire manufacturing.
When the Customer sends a sample or a
blueprint, Part geometry of underwire is recognized and searched in available database.
If no shape is found close enough to customer request, a new entry is added to database.
Production machinery is networked with PC system therefore the new entry is immediately
available to production floor. Shape geometry is transformed into bending
instructions. The shape is scanned with PC blueprint and geometry management
system .New blueprint is printed and if required fine tuning of underwire shape
is done. Production can start after these steps and approximately 9000pcs/hour
can be produced.
One operator can manage up to 4 units.
All usual operation are handled by the onboard PC by visual interface (touch
panel).Article change takes less than 5 seconds, wire type change in about 20
minutes. The wires coming out from the bending system are automatically heat
treated. At room temperature, operator can pick up production ready to be
tipped without waiting for hours for the wires to be readied.
The tipping machine must be fed by an
operator who takes wires and places them on a Conveyor plate. The handling of
the parts is taken care of by the machine. It heats them, melts the polymer,
allows for tip formation and gives finished parts on a conveyor as 50-pieces
groups. Value can be changed by the operator, to allow smaller quantity
bundles. The operator at the unloading end controls the tip quality then puts
on rubber bands and makes the package.
Machine process can be automatic or
manual, depending on option supplied. Operators just needed to choose tip
colour shade and induction heating parameters. The system has a water chiller
unit that must be located nearby Plant. Care must be taken to keep its air
inlets/outlets clean from dirt and powder.
The tipping system can be supplied with
different colour schemes. Basic model have two colour tanks as all wires will
be made without any size-related color scheme (i.e.: one tank will always be
white, the other will be always pink).In manual type, user can change any color
scheme as he likes as there are two standard white tanks plus unlimited number
of small tanks to be switched manually to change coloring. Color change takes only
15 seconds (automatically)
Advantages of this type of machine are:
The other type of underwire cutting machine
available in market is equipped with several adjusting modes for steel wires
and it is of steady function, high precision and rapid speed. The design
principle of the main engine took the practicability and simplification into consideration.
It adopts the screw thread get along with circular cam and the movable tool bit
to regulate automatically, which can be suitable for the steel products with
different specification and radian so as to satisfy the requirements of the
underwire manufacturers. The machine is fast, convenient to operate, has
infinitely adjustable speed and steady operation. It is suitable for producing
the steel wires with different specification and radians.
Wire Casings are produced from narrow
woven and nylon brushed fabrics. The casing has a unique advantage because of
their special manufacturing technique which does not allow the bra wire to poke
out. Wire casings are sewn into the inner side of garments around the cup with
double needle machine. Wires are then inserted into the casing manually at both
sides. It is then bar tacked at ends allowing 3-5mm for wire play.
Because underwire can tear through cloth some times during use,
most women hand-wash underwire bras or machine - wash them on a delicate cycle.
Zippered mesh pouches or bra wash bags can also be used to protect bras and
prevent the underwire from separating from the bra during machine washing.
The lingerie market has grown over the
years as the fashion market has promoted it. This has created more demand for
lingerie. Lingerie designers are putting more significance into creating
lingerie with lace, embroidery, luxurious materials, and other accessories. Manufacturers
and retailers will begin to focus on specific niche lingerie as competition
within the lingerie industry is rising. As such now, lingerie manufacturers in India import all their required quantity of underwires and similar items from other
countries only. In future, we should have underwire manufacturing facility in
our country itself.
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