India has a rich tradition in the art of natural dyeing, a craft perfected during the era of the great Epics. It was known as a leading source of the earliest natural dyes and continues to be a prominent producer, enjoying its place as a land with a rich cultural heritage of traditional crafts. One such craft perfected in India is the fabric tie-dye technique known as Bandhani and Leheriya. Bandhani, as it is popularly known in India, comes from the Hindi word which means tying to give a dotted pattern, while Leheriya means tying fabric diagonally to produce a stripe pattern. These techniques are mostly practiced in the Western states of Rajasthan and Gujarat.

Traditionally, tie and dye were done using natural dyes. However, with the advent of synthetic dyes, tie and dye with natural dyes lost ground. Nevertheless, with the current trend favoring a return to natural and sustainable practices, natural dyes are now back in vogue.

Persian or English walnut (Juglone Regia), native to the Himalayan belt and the Kumaon hills of Uttaranchal, a northern state of India, has the potential to be a significant natural coloring agent. This dye source, derived from the walnut tree, has not been explored extensively but holds strong potential.

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This article was originally published in the 12th Benniel Symposium, Textile Society of America, 2010.