The domestic apparel industry in India has experienced remarkable growth, soaring from Rs. 1260 billion in the financial year (2007-08) to a staggering Rs. 2026 billion in the financial year (2012-2013). Furthermore, the resumption of zero excise duty on readymade garments and made-ups, as announced in the union budget of 2013-14, has ignited optimism within the industry, with even greater heights on the horizon. This growth can be attributed to several factors, including shifting fashion trends, urbanization, and the emergence of a fashion-savvy consumer class.
However, beneath the surface of this success lies the formidable challenge faced by apparel manufacturers in meeting production targets while maintaining high product quality. Rapidly evolving economic conditions, such as intense global competition, shrinking profit margins, consumer demand for superior products, a need for product diversity, ever-changing consumer preferences from season to season, and the imperative to reduce lead times, have exerted considerable pressure on the apparel manufacturing sector. The call for better value at lower prices is incessant, and to not only survive but also thrive, apparel manufacturers must enhance their operations by consistently producing high-quality products and minimizing waste. These measures are essential for maintaining a competitive edge in the market and achieving steady growth.
In this competitive landscape, the quality of garments becomes paramount. Garment quality is intrinsically linked to the number of defects that occur during the manufacturing process. Every manufacturing organization endeavors to implement a variety of quality improvement methodologies, such as 5S, Six Sigma, Kanban principles, Poka-yoke, traffic light systems, Kaizen principles, and lean manufacturing processes, in a bid to minimize defects. However, despite these efforts, defects persist in the manufacturing process.
The defects that arise during the manufacturing process can be categorized into some major groups:
Fabric Defects
Machine defects
Broken Stitches
Skip Stitches
Uneven spi (stitch per inch)
Puckering formation
Loose tension
Unsecure button/snaps
1. Skill/Human Made defects
Uneven stitches
Hi/Low stitches
Raw edges
Needle holes
Pleat formations
Missing operations
Run off stitch
Incorrect label attachment
2. Cleanliness Issues
Dirt marks
Oil stains
Stickers present
Gum stains
Uncut threads
3. Out of tolerance
Due to improper washing
Due to improper ironing
The Problem
Uncut/loose threads are one of those defects which are casually passed by the checkers of sewing as well as finishing department. This on later stage causes pieces rejection of the style during the inspection process, thus not meeting the aql( acceptable quality limit) standard set by the buyer. The casualness of the operators and the checkers eats away the leadtime of the style thus increases the cost of production of the styles running in the organizations.
The operators in India have a very bad habit of continuous running of the machine thus forming an attachment between the ends of two pieces. When the desired operation is completed in all the pieces or there is a requirement of thread change in the machine the operator stops the machine and during this time he/she cuts the chain that has been formed between the pieces due to the sewing threads. The operator mainly doesnt trim the threads properly thus making a defect at the first step only, this practice is then continued by the other operators thus leading to a defective garment at the end of the line which is full of little uncut/loose threads. This mentality of the operators happens to developed just because they are always under the pressure to meet the hourly production target so that the WIP can be properly maintained. The probable areas in the garment where uncut/loose threads can be found are:-
1. Shirts/T-Shirts
Buttons
Button holes
Bartacks
Bottom hemming
Collar area
Armhole area
Sleeves placket
Front pocket
2. Trousers/Denims
Waistband
Waistband loops
Buttons
Buttonholes
Bartacks
Care labels
Back pockets
Crotch attachment
Pocket bags
Bottom hemming
Fly attachment
Solution within the problem
To maintain 100% quality many organizations have implemented many things but the proper training of the operators can only help them to achieve the mammoth target. Many organizations have also faced the scenario that all quality procedures are implemented in the organization but the implementation procedure is not properly percolated to the grass root level of the operators due to which the organization has suffered many setbacks. The proper enlightment of the operators with the procedures along with proper interval checkpoints can help to bud down the menace of loose/uncut threads.
The traffic light system is one of the best examples in controlling the problem because of its visual communication. At the same time it measure operators performance level in quality. This system is basically a combination of work between the line quality supervisors and the line operators. She/he has to check the semi finished garment pieces from current bundle once in an hour or two. Pieces will be taken randomly and check all the quality parameters required for that operation. The red card is given for those, who are identified by the line supervisor have produced 5 or more defective item out of ten pieces inspected. The yellow card is given to those who are identified by the line supervisor have produced 2 or more defective items out of ten inspected. The green card is given if no reworks are found. This system not only reduces the quality problems but it also increases the morale of the operators to achieve higher quality levels. Thus it will further reduce the cost and time of rework on the pieces.
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