Sustainability is a concept that will engage almosteveryone for decades, saysAngelo Camillo.

The topic ofsustainability has assumed global dimensions and now carries politicalimplications. From institutions of higher education to the United Nations, theconsensus is that the earth is at risk. Perhaps, grave risk. The scientificconsensus on climate change, previously dubbed global warming, has hadsignificant impact on many industries. The textile manufacturing and fashionindustries do not operate in a vacuum. They are just as vulnerable as othersectors like food and beverage and play an important role in daily existenceand social and economic interactions.

What is sustainability? Itdepends upon whom you ask. Among the myriad definitions within the framework oftextiles and fashion, I define it as a system that includes the natural andhuman environment that recreates itself, stays balanced hence, sustainable - inorder to survive. It includes other systems such as economic, environmental,societal, and personal, on a global scale. Consequently, we must answer thissimple question: How can we live in a world in which the earth's resources thatsupport life can be available to humans, as well as to the flora and fauna thatare vital components of the ecosystem? The answer is simple: it has to be acollective and inclusive effort, on a global basis, which creates synergy amongall players to benefit the continuation of the earth's ecosystem.

Understandably, thetextile manufacturing and fashion industries cannot be sustainable alone. Theycan have a significant impact on the entire ecosystem. It is true that changewill not happen unless a trigger causes it. Pressure from consumers,competitors, legislative mandates and the personal initiative of activists willcompel stakeholders to change.

Textile manufacturing and fashionindustries are becoming sustainably proactive

A 2014 survey published bythe Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (National Chamber of Italian Fashion)revealed that only 13 per cent of luxury goods consumers said thatsustainability was a fundamental value in purchasing decisions. According to SourcingJournal, while 38 per cent of consumers go out of their way tofind environmentally friendly apparel, 69 per cent would be concerned if theypurchased items that were not eco-friendly. In addition, about 39 per centwould hold the manufacturer responsible for eco-unfriendly products. Thestakeholders in the fashion industry take this data seriously and have beenengaged in implementing sustainability as a critical value of the globalfashion system, given the various correlated environmental and social factorsincluding protection of the environment, people's needs and wants and corporateprofits.

The critical challenge isto remain attentive to both the future of the planet and to fashion's role inthat future, given the amount of premium materials used by the world's topluxury brands. Manufacturers of textiles that usechemicals in less expensive fabric lines - forshoppers at the bottom of the pyramid - need to be concerned as well. Inresponse, many fashion designers, especially the Italians, are now engaged inthe standardisation of reference on hazardous chemical substances in textile,leather and footwear products. Increasingly, many textile manufacturers are nowISO certified in various standards categories.

The results of the 2016 Global 100 Most Sustainable Corporations Index and Forbes magazine show that German company Adidas - a giant manufacturer of textiles, apparel and luxury goods - ranks 5thamong all industries, with a score of 73.10 per cent. Even so, Adidas did not make it to the top 10 global leaders in the Dow Jones Sustainability Index for 2015. Although these rankings prove that something is being done to keep the ecosystem sustainable, the fact is that only a few companies are striving to truly contribute to the planet's health. This suggests that much work remains to be done in order for the fabric and fashion industry to make a significant contribution to global sustainability efforts.

How can the fabric, fashion and related industries contribute to the sustainability effort?

Many companies in these industries have been proactive not only with moral and discretionary activities but also with sustained initiatives that have been catalysts for change to related industries. Two instructive examples come to mind, both indicating that a strategic or long-term trend has now reached the point of no return. By standing firm with their initiatives, these two organisations compelled stakeholders within the fabric, fashion and related industries to follow suit, not only in reaction but as catalysts.

In 2012, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana published a Sustainability Manifesto for Italian fashion, a ten-point guide for the development of responsible management models along the entire value chain of the fashion industry.

In 2009, Walmart, the world's largest retailer, and Patagonia, one of the world's most progressive brands, joined forces with a radical mission: Collect peers and competitors from across the apparel, footwear and textile sectors and develop a universal approach to measuring sustainability performance. Together, they formed the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC). The first initiative was to create the Higg Index, useful tools to measure the aggregates' impact on the planet. The Higg Index was created as the core driver of the SAC. These self-assessment tools empower all stakeholders at any stage of the supply chain/value chain to measure their environmental, social and labour impacts and thereby identify anomalies and/or areas that need improvement. Today, their members consist of major global brands as well as retailers, manufacturers, academics, affiliates, government entities and NGOs.

In sum, sustainability trends are here to stay. Moving forward, these trends will involve not only the fabric, fashion and related industries, but quite literally all industries.