Denims as an essential piece continue to be timeless. But during the pandemic, athleisure became people’s favourite the world over. It is in this context that this piece looks into the evolution of denim and whether it will regain and continue to be people’s favourite.

As one of the textiles that has influenced popular culture and fashion, denim has been present everywhere from formal occasions and informal gatherings to travel adventures, and staying close to home, as well as in times of war and peace. The influence of denim has been so vast that it has defined the contributions of various generations to musical genres, visual arts, political movements, and cultural movements. Its evolution is intriguing, and its function is constantly shifting.

The fashionistas have proved that denim is a classic wardrobe need. Anywhere you go, you’ll always see someone wearing it. Denim has become a staple in people’s wardrobes since it serves as the base for all the go-to looks. And when denim gets a stylish upgrade, the entire ensemble changes.

The Evolution

In the 1800s, the term ‘jean’ was first used in connection with a type of twill cotton fabric used for pants. However, the fabric and the frequently used outfit were soon confused. This fabric was used to create the original blue jeans, commonly known as ‘denim’, produced in the French town of Names. Whether ‘denim’ is an anglicised form of the French textile or if an already-existing English product was given the French name to elevate it is still up for discussion.

The most familiar, traditional jeans, as we know them, were patented in 1873 by Levi Strauss, the proprietor of a wholesale fabric company in San Francisco, and tailor Jacob Davis. These pants were constructed from indigo-dyed denim with pockets and durable riveting, ideal for workwear.

Denim pants, sometimes known as jeans, have undergone every conceivable fashion variation since the 1950s, when they initially entered the mainstream market. What began as workwear for American miners evolved into a counterculture movement uniform, a sign of defiance, a declaration of cool from style icons, and finally couture for models and fashion houses.

The denim jeans overcame generational gaps, international boundaries, and cultural revolutions. Everybody has a preferred fit and cut. And each wave made them uniquely their own—bellbottoms, high waists, skinny and bejewelled!

The COVID-19 Impact

Prior to COVID-19, denim or dungaree cloth, the material used to make jeans pants, was the preferred choice for men and women in all seasons and situations. This changed during the pandemic. Young people who previously might have opted for their favourite pair of jeans were now considering other, more comfortable options. Semi-casual clothing such as shirts, shorts, yoga pants, and casual T-shirts were in demand.

On the production, export and retail sales front too, the COVID-19 impact was visible. China, the largest producer of jeans, was severely under lockdown, which restricted international trade and impeded the movement of goods. The tight lockdown regulations implemented globally also contributed to a decline in the jeans sales in the global markets.

In recent months, however, with the growing trend of personalisation, denim companies have begun creating personalised jeans to broaden their consumer base and boost sales. Leading brands are likely to gain a competitive edge through personalisation as a result of consumers’ changing lifestyles, which include paying more attention to current trends.

In North America too, the COVID-19 outbreak in 2020 had a detrimental effect due to the temporary closure of a number of industries, notably those producing premium denim jeans. The second quarter of 2020, especially, saw a sharp decline in the seaborne imports of denim products into the US, including jeans, jackets, and other goods, according to Fibre2Fashion’s market intelligence tool TexPro.

However, as consumers turned to internet channels, premium denim jeans sales rose. Customers could shop more easily and took advantage of greater product discounts online than in physical locations.

In addition, attempts for greener, more sustainable denim helped in making a fresh start for denim after the decline during the initial COVID-19 months. The strategic cooperation in the denim jeans sector, for instance, denim mills working with jeans brands to accomplish mutually beneficial strategic goals, has also helped.

The US denim jeans market was 524 million units in 2021 and is forecast to grow at a CAGR of 3.1 per cent and reach 611.5 million units in 2026, as per TexPro.

The Trend Towards Sustainability

A premium denim jeans market trend that is anticipated to have a favourable effect in the upcoming years is the making of jeans using recycled plastic and other materials.

The denim jeans industry makes extensive use of resources like water, chemicals, electricity, and other forms of energy. A single pair of jeans requires approximately 1,500 litres of water, or 396 gallons, to be produced, according to American clothing retailer Everlane.

With the rising demand for clothing, there is a risk that the negative consequences on the environment may get escalated. However, producing jeans utilising recycled textile waste helps to limit environmental resource exploitation and the reliance on in-demand raw materials for the manufacture of new clothing.

The waste material is recycled by being broken down into fine fibres that are then spun into yarn. In such a procedure, it’s crucial to make sure that the materials’ quality isn’t compromised by labour-intensive recycling methods. This is accomplished by incorporating the ideal proportion of virgin fibre and other elements into the yarn to safeguard its inherent qualities.

A select few well-known companies have raised their game and are making changes in how they produce denims. For example, in 2019, a US-based leading denim innovator Cone Denim debuted its 100 per cent Organic Cotton Capsule series of denim fabrics. The collection features ‘true denim heritage meets sustainability’.

In 2020, Levi’s unveiled the most sustainable jeans, which it claimed to be the result of more than five years of study into circular denim design and a collaboration with Swedish startup Re:Newcell. It was one of the many projects that Levi’s has undertaken to demonstrate its creativity and ambition.

Companies like Everlane, Outerknown, Warp Weft and Taylor Stitch, amongst others have also adopted sustainable methods to produce their denims.

The New Comfort Apparel

Consumers are aware of the comfort of leggings, sweatpants, and joggers, but they adore the look given by jeans. So, increasingly consumers are desiring denim jeans with the convenience of sweatpants. And brands are working to make jeans comfortable by bringing out new styles and designs like boot cut, wide-legged, loose fit, mom fit, etc.

To make jeans comfortable, the choice of fabric for denim is important. Generally, cotton and elastane are combined to create the comfort denim, which is soft and supportive to the body. It also gives a softer feel, more durability, and a more form-fitting quality.

One may argue that a new denim cycle is finally beginning to take centrestage. According to Charles V Bergh, the CEO of Levi’s, tight-fitting pants have suddenly gone out of style and shoppers of all ages want loose-hanging, wide-leg, and flared jeans. It is reminiscent of a style that was very popular in the 1990s.

Seeing the trend, Levi’s introduced two distinct fits at the beginning of last year—one pair of jeans that ballooned out at the bottom and another that was high-rise at the waist and loose fitting. Both styles performed well. “Some people have said that this is going to create a new denim cycle, and we think that that could very well be true,” Bergh told CNBC in an interview last year. “The last real denim cycle was driven by skinny jeans. And that cycle lasted about 10 years.”

“I don’t think skinny jeans are ever going to go away completely,” he went on. “But clearly right now we are seeing a very strong demand for these looser fits, both the men’s side of the business, as well as the women’s side of the business.”

Younger customers have played a significant role in driving the shift. Mom jeans are a favourite among Generation Z. In fact, these jeans were listed as the No. 3 fashion trend for clothing among female teens in Piper Sandler’s 41st biennial ‘Taking Stock with Teens’ poll of 2021. Leggings and baggy or droopy pants topped with first and second positions respectively.

Future of Denim

Denim is produced on a global scale on an annual basis of 15 billion metres, with Asia-Pacific nations including China, Pakistan, India, Turkey, and Bangladesh accounting for half of the output. According to TexPro, China exports more denim than any other country in the world (64 per cent), with Pakistan coming in second. India follows close behind.

As per TexPro, global denim jeans market is projected to reach 3,461.5 million units in 2026 from 2,893.4 million units in 2021, growing at a CAGR of 3.7 per cent. Increasing purchasing power, disposable income levels, per capita denim jeans consumption, body type awareness, and acceptance of casual attire for office work are the factors that are likely to fuel the denim jeans market’s expansion.

Staying in Fashion

The global market for denim jeans is expanding as more women enter the workforce, urbanisation is accelerating, lifestyles in developing nations are becoming more like those in developed nations, and fashion consciousness is rising. The broadening of choice by the recent introduction of coloured denims and novel styles is further acting as a catalyst to this growing trend. Apart from informal dress, jeans are also regarded as being excellent for a variety of formal situations, including work attire. Together, these elements are boosting growth and reviving interest in the sector. For example, fabric producers in Bangladesh are investing in significant expansion of their denim production.

Another factor in denim’s surge in global popularity is its durability and maintenance over time, which actually works out to be cost-effective for everyone. Consumers are looking for effortless, fuss-free fashion that adapts to the situation and can be worn while traveling anywhere. They demand clothing that works as hard as they do, is enduring, comfortable, eco-friendly, and reflective of their busy and ambitious lifestyles.

Further, denim is used as an evergreen and an all-weather component of apparel for all – men, women, and kids, helping it get recognition and create a large market that had never happened for any other piece of clothing before.

Going Digital

Social media and e-commerce have significantly accelerated denim’s rise globally. While the availability of numerous brands and discounts has expanded the market for consumers, it has also helped brands build a strong platform that guarantees visibility and penetration in far-flung areas.

Due to the growing number of internet users, the number of people visiting different websites for online purchases is increasing. As a result, e-commerce sales channels are becoming more and more popular. One reason for consumers moving towards online retail purchases is the potential of digital sites to offer goods at a lower price compared to brick-and-mortar retail, while saving on travel and time.

Like other industries, the denim industry is also being disrupted and reconstructed in the post- COVID era. The industry is currently going through a metamorphosis phase where new market realities are forcing organisations to examine and change the way they have been working—from virtual meetings to digital showrooms, and everything in between.

Thanks to social media, consumers are adopting and dropping fashion trends more quickly than ever before, and manufacturers need to stay on top of the trends to keep their customers happy. It is anticipated that the social media platforms’ growing influence will accelerate the expansion of the denim market. According to a survey of 1,000 US consumers by Sprout Social, more than two-thirds of customers (68 per cent) have previously made a direct purchase from social media, and virtually all (98 per cent) consumers plan to make at least one purchase in 2022 through social shopping or influencer commerce. The research demonstrates the expanding possibility marketers can’t afford to miss out on, with social shopping predicted to reach a $1.2 trillion channel by 2025.

A good example of how digitalisation is changing the way businesses are run is Indikon, a cloud-based fabric digitisation platform that lets you turn physical denim fabrics into beautiful 3D-ready materials in a blink. Indikon makes use of 3D sampling technology using which mills can rapidly provide their fabrics to buyers and designers without wasting materials or clogging up the supply chain. This makes the sample sharing process quicker and more cost-effective as mills can quickly make changes to their many textiles and send them directly to clients without the normal shipping complications.

Main Drivers for The Increase In The Denim Sector’s Market Share Globally

There is no doubt that denim is widely accepted globally, and its demand is only increasing. The main drivers for the increase in the denim sector’s market share are:

Purpose: In today’s world, denim is used for practically everything. It is available in a variety of colours and can be worn both formally and casually. For every event, a distinct style of denim is available.

 Cost-effective: Consumers have found that purchasing jeans over other bottoms is more cost-effective due to its adaptability.

Convenience: Wearing denim is relaxing, easy to maintain, and durable. Almost any occasion can be dressed up or down with a pair of jeans, which are also easier to maintain than formal attire.

Quality: A sizable segment of consumers worldwide prefer premium labels. It is because customers have a tendency to think that expensive, quality jeans enhance their sense of style and social standing.

Customisation: Some brands offer jeans that can be customised so that clients can choose the fit, colour, and finish that best suits the occasion.

Variety: With new styles, washes, cuts, and embellishments, the denim market is always redefining and reinventing itself, which keeps consumers interested and the demand strong. In addition to being used to make jeans, denim is also used to make shirts, shorts, skirts, bags, shoes, coats, and even upholstery products. Stretch jeans are dominating the market right now. For improved comfort and performance, bi-stretch fabric technology is replacing conventional stretch. The production of denim with improved polyesters is another obvious trend.

Innovation: In the high-end jeans market, continuous innovation is crucial, and businesses must innovate frequently to stay competitive. The decline in sales caused by less expensive knockoffs has forced manufacturers of jeans to release more advanced products. Better flexibility and fabric comfort are provided by new stretch technologies. Denim clothing now incorporates fabric qualities like breathability, rip resistance, and moisture resistance that are typically found in sportswear.

Fashion: Denim has long been a crucial component of style and is not expected to go out of style anytime soon. The rapidly expanding ‘luxury’ category of denim wear manufacturers has it easier because youth all over the world are gradually getting more and more fashion savvy and their purchasing power is rising significantly. Possessing a variety of coloured pairs of jeans has become fashionable.

Trend: Denim has always been in trend in one way or the other since decades. Few denim trends go and make a comeback (for instance: denim skirts are quite in right now), while relaxed denim jackets never went out of trend. In 2022, high-rise, wide-leg denim styles, often known as baggy pants or vintage carpenter jeans are doing rounds. Cargo pants, that were a part of Y2K fashion, are back in trend, too!

Price: At varying price points, denim appeals to distinct consumer segments. The cost of denim clothing varies depending on the material’s quality, texture, comfort, cut, and wash. There are denim products that can fit everyone’s budget and needs, ranging from incredibly affordable everyday pants to pricey luxury denim.

Market: There is a huge market for denims. Teenagers and people in their 20s and 30sused to favour denim in the past. But as times have changed, everyone from young people to the elderly now wear denim.

Acceptance: Denim has recently gained acceptances professional attire. To encourage uniformity and to foster a laid-back atmosphere that is more conducive to working, several multinational corporations are incorporating denim into their daily work culture. The popularity of informal clothing at work is also boosting demand for jeans. Casual attire at work has changed from being the standard for one day to the favoured choice for every day. This has inspired denim manufacturers to create more work-appropriate jeans and accessories.

Ending Note

Denim is a fundamental part of every wardrobe. No other fabric or article of clothing has ever enjoyed such a lengthy association with the textile and apparel industry. The way denim has evolved and adopted to the changing trends, it is never expected to go out of trend!