Indiankhadi fabric, also known as khaddar, is made by spinning threads on aninstrument called charkha. It is woven and spun by hand, which is atime-consuming process. Before Independence, khadi manufacturing gainedmomentum under Mahatma Gandhi’s leadership as a movement to boycott Britishclothes. It was then the fabric of freedom fighters and the rural folk. Gandhideveloped the concept of khadi as a means to provide employment to theunemployed rural population. The Indian flag is also made from khadi, andtherefore, it holds national importance.

Versatility makes it popular

The versatile khadi fabrichas the unique property of keeping the wearer warm in winter and cool insummer. It has a coarse texture and gets easily crumpled, and therefore, is starchedto keep it firm and stiff. On washing, it is more enhanced; the more you washit, the better is the look. Khadi does not easily wear out with a shelf life ofat least four to five years. Attractive designer apparel is made by doinghandwork on khadi garments.

Khadi spinning is generally done by girls and women and weaving, mostly by men. During spinning, the threads are interwoven in such a manner that they provide passage of air in the fabric. Durable khadi comes in many colours and is not harmful to skin. The cotton absorbs moisture and easily soaks sweat and keeps the wearer cool and dry. Khadi cotton comes in plain as well as printed fabrics. The most common outfit is the kurta. Other apparel are saris, salwar suits, western tops, shirts, trousers, skirts and handkerchiefs.

Initially, khadi was primarily made of cotton with a very coarse texture and feel. However, several varieties of khadi like khadi silk, khadi wool and khadi cotton are available now, which makes it a fashionable fabric popular with the masses. The wearer gets a royal and distinguishable look due to khadi’s fall and style. It symbolises luxury and uniqueness as well.

The ratio of cotton and silk fabric is 50:50 in khadi silk, quite an expensive fabric. It requires dry cleaning and shrinks about 3 per cent after the first wash. Khadi silk provides a royal and rich look.

Because of its versatile nature, khadi has found its way onto the wardrobe of fashionistas. Its demand is more than the supply now. It is widely accepted in the Indian fashion circle, with leading designers including it in their collections. There is a huge demand for it in international market as well, especially in the West.

Khadi was earlier dyed in earthy colour tones and was used to make traditional garments, but designers now are experimenting by dyeing it in striking colours like lime green, violet, baby pink and turquoise blue. Stylish garments like miniskirts, halter neck tops, racer tops, tunics, etc. are also being made from khadi.

Government initiatives

The Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) is the Indian government body that promotes khadi, whose production and sale comes under the small scale industry sector. KVIC was created by a parliament act after which many KVIC outlets were opened across the country. These shops sell khadi fabrics and apparel. Every year between October to January, all Khadi Gramodyog Bhavans offer discounts on their products. KVIC also organises exhibitions and trade fairs in the country and abroad to promote khadi.

The small-scale industries engaged in manufacturing khadi get economic redemption for the raw materials and production costs by the government. The khadi sector employs 14.97 lakh people and the total annual production of khadi is 111.49 million square metres.

Khadi over the decades has moved from a freedom fighter’s identity fabric to a fashion garment. There is such a high demand for khadi now that fulfilling it has turned a challenge.