As sustainability becomes entwined into every aspect of human civilisation, the apparel industry must adapt to have a more harmonious existence, and sustainability has to be at the centre of this transformation.

The apparel industry is a major contributor to climate change, responsible for 10 per cent of global greenhouse gases annually1. According to Statista, apparel consumption is not set to slow and is expected to grow from $1.5 trillion in 2021, to $2 trillion by 2026. This ever-growing growth of the apparel industry may seem problematic, especially when considering the essential need for sustainability.

The problem with the apparel industry is that its supply chain is incredibly complex and has been evolving over the years. Globalisation opened the doors of opportunity for fashion retailers, with the industry now involving a multitude of countries, companies and global operations. Clothes are designed in one country, manufactured in another and then shipped to consumers around the world. Consumers, unable to keep up with the amount of clothes and garments on offer, are eager to throw away their seemingly ‘disposable’ clothes, so they can buy the latest trends.

As demand for apparel has grown, so have the levels of social and environmental exploitation. The apparel industry is responsible for 4 per cent of global freshwater extraction each year, amounting to around 93 billion cubic metres – an amount set to double by 20302. 20 per cent of wastewater is produced by the apparel industry’s use of dyes and pollutants3. The industry is one of the most energy-intensive industries and is incredibly reliant on fossil fuels. An estimated 8,000 synthetic chemicals are used in garment production, which includes carcinogens and hormone disruptors4. The apparel industry also has an incredibly high consumption rate of plastic, using 342 million barrels5 of petroleum (equating to 1.35 per cent of global consumption) to create synthetic fibres used in clothes (polyester and nylon).

Fashion brands have repeatedly been called for social exploitation of their employees, with garment workers often working in inhumane, dangerous, unsafe conditions, and working long hours for little pay. Globalisation allowed fashion retailers to outsource mass apparel at low cost, which has been very attractive to them, especially as fast fashion became the norm. However, outsourcing has led to exploitation of minority groups and people from developing countries, further reinstating global inequality.

The current system in place for the world’s garments only works if there is a world in which they can be worn. The industry has received heavy criticism over the years, with both consumers and garment workers pushing for change. For the industry to become sustainable, all the intricate contributors involved throughout the production line need to adapt and fashion retailers need to be accountable for their impacts. Therefore, the pressure is on for a sustainable fashion revolution, with changes being made throughout the industry.

The Next Steps for Sustainable Apparel

1. Decarbonisation

The entire world is trying to decarbonise and that includes the apparel industry, with 52 fashion brands, including Gucci, Reformation and Allbirds, now certified as carbon neutral. These brands’ trackable reduction targets have been confirmed by the non-profit Climate Neutral. This year, we should see many other brands following in their footsteps, providing trackable carbon reduction data.

Having trackable data is crucial and brands can no longer say they are carbon-neutral without the data to prove it. There is now an emphasis on eliminating greenwashing by brands. Therefore, standards and initiatives have been brought in to ensure that brands meet their targets. These initiatives include the Science Based Targets Initiative’s (SBTi’s) Corporate Net-zero Standard, which enables businesses to set credible and accessible reduction targets.

Decarbonising is no easy process, especially concerning fashion brands with complex supply chains. Brands must reduce emissions wherever possible, and then offset the remaining. They could do this by switching to renewable energy sources, going zero-waste, reducing transport emissions and prioritising electric vehicles, environmentally sourcing raw materials and planting trees. Gucci stated that they have implemented “a hierarchy of actions to avoid, reduce, restore and offset its GHG emissions”, which has allowed the company to achieve its carbon neutrality.

2. Regenerative and Innovative Material Sourcing

When synthetic fibres became the favourable choice for fashion brands to source their material, it was a dark day for apparel. Synthetic fibres are derived from oil, a non-renewable source. They release microplastics into the environment and never biodegrade. This reliance on synthetic fibres is changing as the world moves in favour of natural, biodegradable fibres that are sustainable and traceable. Brands are increasingly prioritising natural fibres including cotton, bamboo, flax and jute, for example.

To be sustainable, these materials need to be grown through regenerative farming methods, which help promote climate change mitigation and adaptation. In some cases, sourcing natural fibres can be environmentally detrimental. For example, cotton farming can have devastating impacts, “because of its high water consumption and pollution, soil degradation, greenhouse gas emissions, and use of harmful pesticides and fertilisers”6. Following regenerative practices, such as those mentioned in the REEL Regenerative Code for Cotton, can help restore the ground and provide natural, sustainable fibres for apparel.

Additionally, as biotechnology advances, so will the innovative materials that our clothes are made from. The fashion world will see an influx of clothes made from vegan leathers, old fruit skins, mycelium, algae, bacteria and many more. Fashion giant H&M has jumped on this biotechnological trend and is selling vegan leather boots derived from the skin, stalks and seeds of grapes. Furthermore, Stella McCarney recently unveiled the world’s first luxury handbag that is made out of mycelium. Innovation is at the centre of this biotechnical revolution, with the future set to showcase the possibilities of sustainable apparel.

3. Ethical Treatment of Workers

As conscious consumerism grows and people become more aware of human rights violations associated with apparels production line, fashion brands and retailers have to re-evaluate the exploitation that exists in their supply chain and work towards redistributing global wealth. Fashion brands and retailers are desperate to be perceived as positive, with an emphasis on their corporate social responsibility (CSR). Therefore, fashion brands are increasingly prioritising their workers’ rights, providing them with a safe work environment and a fair wage. Brands also need to be progressive and raise awareness surrounding societal issues, donate a proportion of their profits to charitable causes and champion diversity, equity, and inclusion.

Patagonia has received constant praise throughout the years. The company gives one per cent of its sales to organisations that preserve and restore the natural environment and promotes and sustains “fair labour practices, safe working conditions and environmental responsibility” in the factories that make their products. Patagonia has been raising the stakes for CSR throughout the years and is constantly raising the sustainability bar for brands globally.

4. Digitalisation

As the world moves into the digital age, the apparel industry’s operations are slowly being digitised. AI and 3D design software can be used to predict and design fashion trends, in the hope of tackling overproduction and the associated waste. Blockchain and Radio-frequency Identification (RFID) are also growing in popularity with fashion brands, with technologies promoting transparency throughout their supply chain, from the start of their production line to the finish. This allows brands to provide transparent information to consumers regarding where their clothes are sourced, how they were made, and who made them. Transparency and traceability are becoming increasingly important as conscious consumerism develops and digitalisation will play a major role in the coming years as brands are being held more accountable for the origin and impacts of their products.

Fashion brands not shying away from the digital future include Balenciaga and Dolce & Gabbana, who have both used 3D designs to showcase their fashion lines. Both brands have even entered their designs into the metaverse, with Balenciaga and Prada as some of the first brands to enter Meta’s Virtual Fashion Store. Luxury fashion brands including Prada, Louis Vuitton, and Cartier signed up to Aura, a blockchain consortium in 2021, which promotes transparency of products to consumers. With Aura, consumers can access the product’s history and authenticate their goods, even when they enter the secondhand market.

5. The Circular Economy

Sustainability does not exist without circularity. The current linear model for apparel does not work and this is evident from the amount of textile waste that is generated by the industry. The shocking truth is that of the 32 billion garments that are produced each year, 64 per cent will end up in landfill.7 Children’s fashion brand FIVE OF US created a digital tool to help visualise the amount of waste that is generated, with shocking truths revealed; “Every 7 minutes the equivalent of Mount Everest (in height) of clothes is thrown in landfill. If you stacked 12 months’ worth of fashion landfill, it would reach 613,000,000 metres high.”8

Brands, therefore, have to close the fashion loop by ditching their linear models and taking full responsibility for their products until their end-of-life. This will prevent unwanted textiles from going to landfill due to sustainable solutions being implemented to ensure their product retains functionality. This could be done through reselling, clothes swaps, take back, repairing schemes and upcycling. This diversion away from landfill ties in with decarbonisation and promotes a zero-waste world.

Levi Strauss is among the fashion brands that are strongly committed to circularity. Following the Ellen MacArthur Foundation Make Fashion Circular Framework, Levi’s has opened a chain of tailor shops, which allows people to repair, upcycle and embellish their denim. The shop also offers virtual workshops, so that people can learn and experience the benefits of repairing and repurposing their denim. Levi’s also takes back old worn or damaged Levi’s jeans, which are then used for building insulation.

6. The Fashion Rental and Secondhand Market

Rental fashion services tightly align with the future of fashion. Allowing people to rent clothing and accessories for a certain time frame helps to minimise environmental impact, reduce mass production and thus lessen the amount of textile waste going to landfill. Renting clothes and fashion items can help consumers keep their wardrobes fresh, without the constant need for consumption. It also has financial benefits, as it allows people to stay on trend without largely impacting their bank balance.

The rental fashion market has received overwhelming support recently. Fashion United predicts that online fashion rental will continue to grow over 10 per cent each year until 2027, driven by factors such as social media, the rising cost of clothes and the increasing desire to be sustainable. As people become more aware of renting clothes, more fashion brands will incorporate it into their business models. Fashion brands including Hurr, Cocoon and Rotaro have rental platforms that allow consumers to rent the products they love, reducing the demand as well as the waste generated by the apparel industry.

Alongside the rise of the rental market, comes the growth of the secondhand market. The Secondhand Apparel Market Report, published September 2022, valued the secondhand market at $71 million in 2022, and projected to reach $282,748 million in 2032. Consumers are increasingly seeing the value in secondhand clothes, driven by factors including the environmental impacts of mass consumption, the cost-effective nature of the secondhand clothes market, and wanting to dissociate from the unethical labour practices associated with the apparel industry.

As demand for secondhand clothes grows, fashion brands will need to adapt and think of ways they can keep up with the trends. Some brands now have secondhand marketplaces, including Patagonia Worn Wear, EILEEN FISHER Renew, ASOS Marketplace, and Coclico Pre-Loved. Secondhand marketplaces for consumers will become more essential as the world looks towards circularity and upcycling, and therefore brands will need to figure out ways to incorporate secondhand clothes into their business models.

Conclusion

Humanity is living in a unique period, which offers the last opportunity to prevent the worst effects of climate change. Decarbonisation and circularity are no longer just an option, but a necessity. Likewise, worker exploitation and human inequality must be addressed, and it is essential that clothes are made from natural fibres. Implementation of digitalisation will help assist this transformation and promote transparency throughout the supply chain. The rental and secondhand market will change the way apparel is produced, with mass consumption slowly falling out of trend. However, this unique period of time is brief, and humanity must make the necessary changes at a quick pace to ensure a hospitable planet for the future, and the apparel industry has to play a crucial role in this.