The Other Fibre
Although the Bemberg fibre has been in India for 40 years, it is only now that the brand is making a more concentrated effort in promoting it among designers and on fashion platforms. Hideto Tanimoto, general manager (Bemberg sales & marketing), Asahi Kasei Corporation shares the company's vision with Meher Castelino.
How sustainable is Bemberg?
Bemberg aims at contributing to sustainability by establishing a production system with particular consideration for the control of chemicals and the environment, using cotton seed oil by-products as raw material, and maintaining ideal relationships between business and people's lives.
Our manufacturing process is a closed loop system. Out of the total energy consumption, as high as 40 per cent is renewable energy through own hydropower plants and biomass power plant. Along with this, we also focus on zero emissions to reduce the waste coming out from the factory.
Bemberg believes in a sustainable society and hence partners with local textiles and design universities like NID, NIFT, DKTE and works with students on various projects. We believe this collaboration fosters the future of the textiles and fashion industry. We have also lent equipment to local suppliers from whom we procure the raw material. We also provide technical support to suppliers and other local stakeholders to improve their product quality and hence their lives.
Bemberg is produced only at our plant in Japan at this moment in the world. There is no other company manufacturing Bemberg. The other main difference is raw material. For Bemberg, the raw material (source of cellulose) is cotton linter, which is a by-product of the cottonseed oil manufacturing.
How did it all start for Bemberg?
The origin of Bemberg dates to the late 19th century, when chemical fibres had just been developed. In 1928, Asahi Kasei introduced a textile production technology developed by JP Bemberg and, after three years of research, Asahi Kasei became the first company in Japan to successfully produce this artificial fibre. In 1931, Asahi Kasei built the Bemberg plant in Nobeoka City in Miyazaki prefecture, and started operations. Thanks to the untiring research and technological innovation, Asahi Kasei is now the only manufacturer of Bemberg fibre in the world. Due to our systematic approach and commitment towards quality of everything we are into, we have been able to maintain this plant in production since 1931. Bemberg is used for lining fabrics, outer wear, traditional wear, intimate wear, athletic wear, home textile, etc.
Since Bemberg is from cotton linter-a raw material that is pre-consumer waste-where does the company procure it from? What is the production quantity of the fibre in a month?
It comes from India, the US and China. Currently, we manufacture around 1200 MT per month.
What energy-saving methods are used by your company?
Consideration of environment during manufacturing has always been at our core research. We have systems in place to reuse the exhaust heat that is generated during the manufacturing of Bemberg. Also, this is more for CO2 reduction, which is one of the purposes of energy saving; but we own nine hydro-power plants, the oldest one being in operation since 1925 and two biomass power plants since 2012. The renewable energy from these plants accounts for 40 per cent of the total energy consumption. In fact, the average renewable energy consumption of Japan is only around 12 per cent. Apart from this, we have been reusing the exhaust heat and hence reducing the energy consumption and carbon footprint.
What steps have been taken to reduce CO2 emission during the production process?
We have increased the hydropower plant capacity, so that the proportion of renewable energy goes up. We are also taking measures to reduce energy consumption by improving the production system.
What is the process that the Bemberg yarn goes through?
We have to make a spin solution containing cellulose. For that we have to dissolve cotton linter with a chemical solution. This viscous solution is then passed through a spinerette to draw the fibres of desired number of filaments and denier. After the extrusion, the chemical solution is recovered and hence only cellulose remains, which forms the yarn. This yarn is then wound on the desired packages, checked for defects and then only the ones that achieve quality grade are packed for dispatch.
What is the USP of the Bemberg fibre?
Bemberg is a unique fibre. It is a pure and regenerated cellulose fibre manufactured using cotton linter and only by Asahi Kasei. Sheen, beautiful colours, better moisture absorption and release, gliding smooth textures, etc are achieved in the fabrics made from Bemberg yarn. One of the main features of Bemberg is comfort that it gives to the wearer. Nowadays, the inclination towards comfort has also significantly increased along with the appearance of garments.
Does a fabric or garment have a Bemberg tag?
So far, Bemberg fabric and garments are sold in India without the Bemberg tags. However, with the collection Tattva by Hemang Agrawal, the Bemberg tags will be introduced for garments made in India.
The company recently took part in a fashion week with a designer. What do you hope to gain with this collaboration?
Yes, this was the first time that we participated in a major fashion week. This fashion week is the biggest platform around and has a day dedicated to sustainable fashion. Our aim was to expand our business with designer Hemang Agrawal from Varanasi for a contribution to local craftsmanship, to grow awareness and better understanding of the Bemberg brand among leading players in the sustainable fashion scene in India, and to seek further collaborations with those players. I can say that this partnership was a win-win situation for all the stakeholders involved.
How is the fibre marketed? What is the marketing and communication strategy?
Currently, Bemberg yarn is sold in India, Japan, European countries, the US, and many other countries in Asia. Bemberg yarn is marketed as a premium and sustainable fibre that has certain unique characteristics and can be used for niche products. We want Bemberg to be known as a sustainable, premium yarn with unique features and which is used by some of the top and niche players in the textiles and fashion industry. We currently have a website for the world and also an India-specific one. This year we participated in a major fashion week for the first time, and have started communicating through Instagram and Facebook.
What are the different certifications given to Bemberg?
Bemberg has acquired various certifications and most of them are related to sustainability:
1. INNOV-HUB SSI: Innovhub is an Italian company offering various certifications. One of the certifications they offer is for biodegradability of textile materials after rigourous testing. They measure the percentage of aerobic biodegradability in mature compost and the degree of disintegration of textiles. Bemberg has received this certification because of its biodegradability and compostability.
2. Global Recycled Standard (GRS): Products certified for GRS are textiles made by recycling pre-consumer material and that have product traceability from raw materials used to finished products shipped.
3. ISO 14001: Asahi Kasei obtained ISO 14001, the international standard for environment management systems, in recognition of the establishment of systems to continuously reduce and prevent the environmental impacts of its corporate activities, product and services. Bemberg is also a part of this. For us, environment-friendliness is not a destination but a way of doing busines.
4. OEKO-TEX Standard 100: The STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX is a worldwide consistent independent testing and certification system for raw, semi-finished and finished textile products at all processing levels. It aims to level out global differences regarding the assessment of possible harmful substance in textiles. Bemberg has received this certification confirming that it does not have any harmful substances, making it safe for human use.
Will Bemberg tie up with other designers, mills in India and elsewhere?
Yes, we absolutely want to tie up with other designers in the coming times, especially with leading players in the sustainable fashion scene in India who have the same spirit towards sustainability as we do or with upcoming young powers aiming at a sustainable society. Yes, we are willing to tie up with mills in India. It's actually common for us in Japan, Europe, and some other countries and we are looking for right partners in India right now.
What has been your growth story? Which are your biggest markets?
Bemberg has been in the industry for more than 85 years now. We started with a small quantity and now are producing Bemberg to the tune of 1200 MT per month and have expanded our markets and applications. We entered India around 40 years ago. Currently, it is our biggest market due to the huge consumption of saris, dupattas and other traditional wear. We are also focusing more on traditional wear in India.
What are your future plans?
We aim to contribute in maintaining and improving of traditional craftmanship, and to support the people by creating sustainable businesses among handloom clusters, such as Varanasi. Ultimately, we aim to contribute towards making the whole Indian fashion industry sustainable. For that, we'd love to cooperate with more key players who could lead the transformation of the industry.
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