Gaetano Lanfranchi
Owner Ditta Giovanni Lanfranchi S.p.A.
We recycle almost all our production remnants
Ditta Giovanni Lanfranchi S.p.A. has been in operation for more than a century and is known for producing sustainable, eco-friendly accessories. In an exclusive chat with Fibre2Fashion, Gaetano Lanfranchi, owner and great-grandson of the company's founder, talks about the company's legacy.
The company is celebrating its 130th anniversary this year. Please tell us the growth story.
We have a long history and impressive heritage. Lanfranchi was established in 1887 by Giovanni Lanfranchi, my great-grandfather. We started as a button producer in an area called The Italian Manchester. The place got its name from the concentration of industry and the abundance of energy from the water of the Oglio River.
Zips were invented in 1892 but the first models were not so practical as they are today. The real and effective application of zips began during World War I. Soldiers found zips practical for their tobacco bags. Lanfranchi decided to enter this new business during World War II, forced by a scarcity of raw material for buttons and the loss of the United Kingdom as a market. Threatened by airstrikes, we had to move all machinery quickly from Milan to Palazzolo, which continues to be a major site for us. We stopped making buttons a few years later and began to concentrate on zips, acquiring patents for unique models.
Lanfranchi is now organised across five plants, all located in the north of Italy, and 400 workers with a completely vertical integration. We start from raw materials and produce finished products, from the sewing of the tape to the moulding of components, from the plating to the dyeing everything is done internally, assuring our customers with the best technology and environment care. If you compare the last century zips to the ones produced now-a-days, maybe the difference will not be that visible but we really had an impressive upgrade of materials, finishings, combination of new technologies to keep the fast pace of fashion and designers' demands. It is our great point of strength to let customers choose and combine any feature, we can characterise us as 'industrial artisans' of high-end zips.
Which are your major markets? Are you planning to explore any untapped markets?
Our main market is Italy, where all the worldwide premium brands source and produce. France, Germany, the United Kingdom and the United States of America are the main markets for export. We also supply goods to nominated producers of our customers in more than 50 countries.
Considering our quality standards and European costs of production, we are focused on customers who design products internally. We assist them in developing unique trims that could complete and enrich their outfits. We obviously cannot compete with Asian suppliers in terms of prices but whenever something particular, extraordinary and personalised is needed, that will be our favourite playground.
What steps are taken to ensure that your products are sustainable and eco-friendly?
We are OekoTex certified for almost two decades and for class 1 products, the strictest class dedicated to children's wear. Our plating and dyeing plant is ISO 14001 certified and we signed the DETOX commitment two years ago to verify and participate in the process of elimination of dangerous substances. We recognise these are dangerous for mankind and for our environment. Details are available on our website www.lampo.eu. We trust in sustainability for ethical and economic reasons. We recycle almost all our production remnants. Metal is sold to foundries and the tapes are used for mops. Our weaving plant is totally solar powered and we favour the purchase of recycled materials like Newlife recycled polyester.
Please elaborate on the different types of accessories manufactured by your company.
We produce all kinds of zips - moulded, spiral, metal and the high polished metal that we call Superlampo, which was also the age-old way to make zips. Each tooth is cut, polished, plated (sometimes with 24K gold) and then applied onto the tape, reaching an unparalleled smooth running and luxurious appearance. Today's quality standards definitely give more flexibility to our customers.
Where do you source raw material from?
We source from Italy or abroad and the decision is driven by quality standards and reputation. For example, Zamac is the base material of all accessories and is supplied by the best known European producer with 100 per cent traceability.
What is your R&D team like? What is your annual R&D budget?
Our R&D team is, in some ways, unorthodox. There is a group of permanent key leading figures but we also engage a specific think tank of experts to solve problems and upgrade quality. Who better than heads of single units can understand and implement the feasibility of a change? A change must be absorbed by the whole structure, not merely imposed from the top.
Are there any new products in the pipeline?
We always have new products in progress since our customers push for new developments and applications. New products are the most challenging and satisfactory part of our work. In upcoming exhibitions, we will present an extension of our product range, the Superlampo T2 zip, where the chain is less than three millimetres wide. Light, soft and almost invisible, it is cute and luxurious! We must admit that with the aid of our sophisticated 3D printer, which can produce items made of steel, the engineering process has speeded up a lot and this has helped us overcome the technical limits of moulding.
Where are your manufacturing units? What is the manufacturing capacity for each of your accessories?
All plants are based in Italy within a radius of 20 km. Our main capacity is dedicated to Superlampo, but we can produce over 40 million pieces of all accessories every year.
Can you tell us who your major clients are?
Privacy agreements do not allow us to disclose their names but we are proud to serve all Italian, European and American top quality garment and accessory makers. Zips are versatile trims. They are used on garments and accessories like bags or purses. We are focused on fashion rather than on technical items because we love to leave our Italian mark, a mark of style, excellent quality and flexibility.
How was the company's performance in the last fiscal? What are your expectations from the current fiscal?
The last two years were challenging for all of us because most of our customers suffered from the austerity in China and the closure of the Russian market. We have not posted losses and considering that 2017 has begun with more positivity, we are eager to ride this wave.
Published on: 16/06/2017
DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.
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