Stephane Barrau
VP-Global Consumer Product Testing of Eurofins Group Eurofins
Future testing needs to focus on waste, wastewater management
Eurofins Scientific is an international group of laboratories headquartered in Luxembourg, providing testing and support services to the pharmaceutical, food, environmental, agroscience and consumer products industries, among others. The Group is one of the international leaders in the provision of testing services with a network of more than 800 laboratories across 47 countries. Through research and development, in-licensing and acquisitions, the Group draws on the latest developments in every industry it serves, while helping corporations to deliver safe and compliant products through responsible and sustainable sourcing practices. Vice president of Global Consumer Product Testing of Eurofins Group Stephane Barrau discusses the testing landscape for the apparel and textile niches.
What do you think is the biggest challenge facing apparel brands and retailers in today's market?
The biggest challenge facing brands and retailers now is threefold: they need to stand out in a competitive marketplace characterised by rapidly advancing technology (automation, e-commerce, branding), ensure they are compliant with the regulatory framework, and, at the same time, focus on meeting the industry's sustainability objectives, which were officially launched at the G7 Summit in France in August.
Supply chain mapping is a hot topic for product quality managers. How does your service help brands and retailers improve supply chain traceability?
Part of our global offer is a supply chain mapping service that can deliver greater insight into supply chains, a clear output on sustainability and a way for businesses to manage risk.
It begins with the generation of supply chain data through a consultative process with clients to establish and then build on their existing understanding of their supply chain and identify potential risks. The data is then verified and mapped to produce a geographical supply chain map for risk assessment and management. Once a brand has a full understanding of the materials used throughout the supply chain, it is possible to identify the areas that need attention.
Another service we can provide is DNA traceability for the leather industry. The DNA tagging system provides detailed information about the journey of a leather item through the stages of production via robust artificial DNA markers that are added at various stages in the supply chain. This level of detail helps to combat the problem of counterfeit goods and is a major asset to any luxury leather brand.
Why did you develop the microfibre shedding test and how does it work?
The Eurofins Group´s mission is to contribute to global health and safety by providing our customers with best-in-class laboratory and advisory services. We are concerned about pollution of the natural environment from plastics and microplastics, and we are aware that this issue is the focus of intense research because of the potential damage to the aquatic environment. Therefore, it is a problem we felt we had to address.
Several of our divisions are involved in carrying out studies and developing tests to evaluate the generation and presence of microplastics in the environment and in products. We know that textile and textile products made totally or partially from synthetic materials have been identified as one of the main sources for the release of these types of contaminants into the aquatic environment via wastewater processing from both domestic laundry and industrial processes. Our international business line for softlines and leather (in the consumer product testing division) has developed a test method that simulates a full washing cycle. The wastewater from this wash is filtered to evaluate the number and size of the microfibres shed by products being tested.
How has the testing landscape changed in the last ten years?
From a customer service perspective, testing remains a commodity. The challenge for laboratories is to offer this basic service alongside added value services like technology, innovation and data management capabilities required by the industry.
From the perspective of our internal development, we are adapting our service to meet new and changing regulations, which are increasingly demanding and comprehensive.
What sets your service offer apart from your competitors?
We are focused on innovation and the development of new processes and test protocols, which are carried out in our technical competence centres located in the United Kingdom and Spain.
Our competence centres are staffed by technical personnel with outstanding experience in the industries they serve, and some of them also sit on the standardisation committees.
This positions us at the forefront of both research and development and regulatory awareness and enables us to advise our clients about the latest trends and upcoming regulatory changes and updates before they become legal requirements. Likewise, this enables us to prepare our labs in advance of the implementation of new regulations, so we are always a step ahead. The knowledge our experts possess is a clear competitive advantage.
In addition, our technical teams are continually working to develop useful tools for our customers, such as the Chem-map chemical verification system.
How do you see this kind of test changing product development in the sector going forward?
Globally, this kind of service is still in the very early stages of development, although there are efforts underway across the industry to agree a harmonised method for evaluating fibre shedding during the laundry process. The main benefit for customers at this stage is that it gives them a better understanding of the products they are manufacturing and their impact on the environment in terms of microfibre release.
Going forward, this is an issue that will not only continue to affect product development in the textile industry, but also impact manufacturers in other industries such as suppliers of detergents and washing machines. While it is still too early to say where that development might lead, for fashion and textiles it is likely that the focus will shift towards the design and manufacture of more durable, sustainable products. As always, this will be driven by a combination of the global regulatory landscape, customer demand, and innovation from within the industry itself.
What do you see coming in terms of new risks and new testing requirements in the future?
I think we will see a greater emphasis on waste management in general and, more specifically, a focus on the reduction and management of wastewater.
There is also likely to be a trend towards increased regulation, designed to protect the planet rather than just its people. There are already many voluntary initiatives, such as the ZDHC chemical management programme, but they are not yet widely implemented because they aren't mandatory. Eurofins is a partner in several of these initiatives, including ZDHC and Initiative Clause Sociale (ICS) for social auditing, and we believe this is where the industry is heading in terms of regulation.
What are your customers in apparel and textiles currently most concerned about?
The biggest concern for our customers is regulatory compliance, followed by a shift towards developing more sustainable products and the need for greater transparency and traceability in the supply chain.
How have you responded to the increased focus on sustainability?
Our global services portfolio ranges from regulatory advice and laboratory testing to inspections and audits. Within our textiles business, we have developed a series of innovative services to help customers improve the transparency of their supply chains. DNA traceability and supply chain mapping are two very interesting solutions that address the need for transparency as well as the problem of counterfeiting.
In terms of product sustainability, we have been developing laboratory test methods to verify the sustainability of materials as well as the traceability of these same materials and substances throughout the entire supply chain. Examples include our microfibre test method to quantify microplastic release, or traceability systems such as the Chem-map chemical management system.
In terms of the supply chain, we have a network of auditors based in the main production hubs around the world who provide a comprehensive service, including environmental audits and personalised social and technical audits.
Eurofins | AQM recently announced that it has become a Provisional Member Firm of the Association of Professional Social Compliance Auditors (APSCA), whose aim is to enhance the professionalism, consistency and credibility of individuals and organisations performing independent social compliance audits.
What else is on the horizon for you?
We want to provide our customers with automated tools that enable them to easily control the traceability of their products and their suppliers. This can be achieved through cross-checking regulatory databases with products, materials and substances, so that our customers receive alerts directly from product developers and producers, thereby avoiding possible claims by consumers or third-party organisations.
Ultimately, our goal is to provide our customers with the means to achieve full transparency in their supply chains alongside a comprehensive service provision. (HO)
Published on: 04/11/2019
DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.
