A risk assessment based residue policy must be implemented along the entire processing and trading chain...
Herbert Ladwig is the Managing Director of Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), an organisation that promotes sustainability in the textile industry. He shares his pearls of wisdom with Fibre2fashion Correspondent Manushi Gandhi.
Synopsis:
GOTS is developed by the members of the International Working Group which consists of four trustworthy organisations:
1. International Association Natural Textile Industry (IVN), Germany.
2. Soil Association (SA), England.
3. Organic Trade Association (OTA), USA.
4. Japan Organic Cotton Association (JOCA), Japan.
GOTS has several representatives in various countries who promote sustainability in textiles and their regions. The GOTS-approved certifiers are tasked with implementation of the GOTS quality assurance system. Only textile products that contain a minimum of 70% organic fibres can become GOTS certified.
Herbert Ladwig has been a corporate lawyer with several corporations in Germany and abroad in different fields including the garment industry. Mr. Ladwig owns a law firm in Stuttgart, specializing in commercial law. He is the CEO of Global Standard gemeinnutzige GmbH since 2008.
Excerpts:
Tell us something about your profession and since how long are you associated with GOTS?
I studied Political Science and Law in Germany and USA. I worked as corporate counsel in several countries and industries, among them the garment industry. Later I practiced law focusing on commercial law. In 2008, I retired from my own law office. I have been involved in organic textiles since 1988 as an advisor to the world’s first organic textile manufacturers association founded in Germany in the seventies. On behalf of it, I organized and coordinated the International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard from its start in 2002.
Which places of the world are doing best in adopting organic textile?
If you take the number of GOTS certified facilities as an indicator the Top Ten are India, Turkey, China, Germany, Pakistan, South Korea, Italy, Bangladesh, Japan and UK. More and more, the big brands and retailers all over Europe and the US are initiating a "pull-effect" on the whole supply chain by increasing their demand for organic respectively GOTS certified textiles.
It’s known that organizations have been taking steps to promote sustainability, Eco-friendliness etc. but what about curbing such practices that already exist?
GOTS is a dynamic standard: we foster constant progress towards development of better textile processing methods. In this continuous improvement process we collaborate with international stakeholders, including the textile and apparel industry, chemical suppliers, organic farming and environmental organizations, workers’ rights groups, and labor unions and consider practices that already exist with the goal to optimize them with regard to sustainability aspects.
What’s the need for a company to be certified by GOTS?
GOTS is a solution for companies striving for sustainability. With GOTS they can rely on requirements for environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing which are recognized world-wide. And - to speak of the economic pillar of sustainability - GOTS satisfies the need to generate long-term competitive advantages.
Do you feel that terms and labels like 'Sustainability' or 'Eco Friendly' etc. are used as marketing gimmicks by many companies?
I would not generalize. But to separate the wheat from the chaff one should look very closely and distinguish between self-claims and independent third party certification as provided by GOTS.
What steps should be taken at the ground level to promote ethical business practices?
We have to change our mindset from 'getting a certificate' to achieving 'standards set by a certification system’. At the ground level, the businesses have to invest in staff trainings, better record management, waste management, social practices, optimum workload etc. There is need for paradigm shift in the way we do business. All these practices would lead to higher ethical credibility. A business that is certified to GOTS can promote its credibility because GOTS is well established as a leading standard, exhibiting sustainability.
What are the advantages of organic textiles for buyers, manufacturers, designers, teachers and students?
The advantage is the same for all: sustainability. In October 2012 we launched the worldwide Cottoned On Campaign, together with the Soil Association, saying that nothing beats organic cotton when it comes to sustainability claims you can trust. Organic fiber production is based on a system of farming that maintains and replenishes soil fertility without the use of toxic, persistent pesticides and fertilizers. In addition, organic production relies on adequate animal husbandry and excludes genetic modification. Based on organic fibers, Organic Textiles are being processed with the least possible impact and residual natural and synthetic chemical inputs, under good social conditions, all independently controlled.
What is the validity of GOTS certificate and license? Is there a possibility of a company indulging in unethical and anti-environmental practices after obtaining the certificate?
The GOTS quality assurance is based on a dual system. Annual on-site inspections are the basis for GOTS certification. They are performed by independent and specially accredited certification bodies which may additionally conduct unexpected inspections. This certificate means that the company is able to process and trade the listed products under GOTS. This is publicized in our database on the GOTS website. Furthermore a risk assessment based residue policy must be implemented along the entire processing and trading chain to assure the consumer that GOTS certified textiles do not contain critical residue levels of harmful substances. A formal complaint procedure is available for anyone in case of any violation of a certified company’s duties under GOTS.
People think organic textiles have a limited availability. Is this fact?
GOTS certified organic textiles are available in all segments of textile trade- garments, kids-wear, casuals, formals, towels, bed linens, aprons, carpets, even socks and sportswear. This includes high end fashion garments as well. Yes, the availability would be limited. The reason being- the area under organic farming (for cotton) is less than 10%. But, there are many organisations working to promote pesticide and GMO free organic cotton farming worldwide and we are sure this ratio will consistently increase. For the standard rule of demand and supply, in order to increase availability, more and more brands and consumers have to pledge their support to certified organic textiles. This will propagate the demand down the supply chain till the organic farmers.
There has already been recessionary impact in some markets; will it be a wise decision for a company to suddenly turn to organic textiles?
Definitively. Markets will always be subject to fluctuations. GOTS certified organic textiles are made of certified organic renewable materials, processed in an environmentally and socially responsible way. For businesses to take this path means building up and ensuring their long-term brand and company reputation.
