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Interview with Anjali Schiavina

Anjali Schiavina
Anjali Schiavina
Founder
Mandala Apparels Pvt Ltd
Mandala Apparels Pvt Ltd

Innovations is one of the key aspects in evolving as a company
In 2002, Anjali Schiavina started Mandala Apparels Pvt Ltd in Pondicherry with just a single vegetable dyeing unit, one tailor, one master-cutter, and eight handloom weavers. By 2009, it grew to 150 units with 165 employees, and now has a global presence. Mandala envisions itself as a pioneer in the organic apparel sector and emerges as a point of reference in this growing market. The mission is to create an enterprise, which is a platform that can provide suitable conditions for an integral development of the environment, society and individuals. Instead of aiming to become an island of success, the company is concentrating its efforts on contributing to an ocean of change. Two years ago, Mandala Apparels attracted equity investment from Aavishkaar to accelerate growth as well as its social impact. The design studios are the core of creativity, beaming with ideas and imagination with a steady stream of visiting designers who bring in a range of delightful influences to the table. The resident designers too constantly reinvent their styles and ideas in developing new concepts and collections. The design infrastructure also supports clients in the development of their collections, and is also a platform that is used by internship students from India as well as overseas. Mandala Apparels works with cotton from organic farmers' groups, and it supports them in marketing their produce as well. By doing this, the company ensures a continuous control over quality, and responsibility towards the environment and stakeholder communities. The company's ISO 9001:2008 certified processes ensure a 100 per cent quality check, which is carried out across all parameters such as fabric strength, colour fastness and shrinkage before the fabric is approved for production. It has unique 40-point fabric checking system. Dedicated teams are trained in producing soft toys, accessories, and bags. Anjali Schiavina talks about the journey in an exclusive Q&A with Meher Castelino

Where all do you export?

Our core markets are the United Kingdom and other parts of Europe (Spain, the Netherlands, Sweden, Denmark, Germany and Austria). We also export to the US, Japan and Australia. Again, we are looking at a larger picture in the coming financial year to enter new markets.
 

How easy or difficult is it to do business in India?

Every business has its own set of challenges. Mandala Apparels has its own challenges, being in the niche business area of sustainability and organic fashion (even this is gradually becoming mainstream). We always come up with contingency plans to tackle situations positively and amicably.

Tell us briefly about your background, and what you did in Italy before coming to India.

I was born in Calcutta, and grew up in Pondicherry. In Italy, I worked mostly within the footwear industry. I worked as production coordinator with Anzani SRL. They are pioneers in manufacturing machines for the shoe industry. I also worked as a marketing person with Fratelli Rosetti, a luxury shoe manufacturing company and was instrumental in opening a chain of high-end Indian restaurants (eight of them) and was the CEO of the company. Inspired by this rich environment and after a ten-year sojourn in Italy, I started my apparel manufacturing company in Pondicherry.

What is Mandala Apparels all about?

Mandala Apparels Private Limited is a garment manufacturing company that grew from zero to 250 workers over a span of 13 years. In addition to this, I have partnered with Fairtrade and organic suppliers, and today my company is GOTS, FLO-Cert and WFTO certified. My vision is to develop a self-sustaining social enterprise (as opposed to the NGO business model). I value my company through a 3DP&L: financial stability and growth, environmental impact and social impact.

How do you market the company and its products?

The marketing strategies of Mandala Apparels are a bridge between traditional and modern strategies. So, our key areas of focus are social media marketing, presence in sustainable forums, public relations, digital word of mouth, trade fairs, etc. Having said that, our products speak volumes on behalf of our company. I would say that is the strongest marketing strategy of them all.

Who is the designer of the collections?

The international brands that we collaborate with do the designing for the collections.

How many collections do you make in a year?

Our international brands make anything between two and four collections a year.

What are your observations on the government's plan to amend the Handloom Act which lists goods and textiles reserved for production by traditional crafts and weavers and offers incentives to them?

I think it is a good initiative by the government.

Why did you change the name to Mandala Apparels from Creative Art of Souls?

Mandala, signifying radial balance, in the form of a cosmic circle, represents our enterprise in which we work towards integrating all facets of our industry from sourcing to manufacturing. With an aim to align to the above vision, we revamped from CAOS to Mandala Apparels.

What is the USP of the company?

I would say Mandala's USP are the following: better price, pret-a-porter clothing, categories - woven /knits, reliable story on sustainability, fashion forward, organic and fair trade, price point, minimum order quantity (MOQ), and delivery.

Please tell us about your association with Chetna Organic and IL&FS Education? How does it help the company?

Mandala Apparels has committed to Chetna Organics to buy 70MT of organic cotton for the year 2016-17. It helps the company to sustain a transparent supply chain, pricing strategies and direct working relationship with farmers. Mandala Apparels has been creating employment for women from underprivileged background by providing them a two-month training programme prior to employing them. These training programmes are conducted in-house by the company's team as well as in partnership with IL&FS (India's largest training company, whose development methodology is holistic in approach by incorporating training, job linkages, community engagements, counseling and selection tests, all of which find resonance with Mandala's values and processes.) This initiative to train and offering jobs to women helps them acquire financial independence.

Which are your best markets?

Our best markets would be the United Kingdom and the rest of Europe.

What kind of garments do you export?

We export infants', kids', men's and women's wear in the prét-a-porter segment.

What are your CSR activities?

I would like to replace the word CSR with ESR (environmental social responsibility) - because those initiatives that come under the umbrella of CSR are our company's core values. We base everything on those. So, the initiatives include educating women to be financially secure, providing job opportunities that eradicate unemployment in the surrounding areas, waste management, training programmes for semi-skilled/ unskilled members to give them a fair chance in taking up jobs, facilitating special schools with clothing whenever possible, etc.

What is the turnover of the company?

The turnover at the moment is `10 crore, and we are working towards a tremendous growth in the next two financial years towards which the company has taken initiatives at the management level.

What kind of fabrics do you use?

We use fabrics like poplin, twill, Lycra, canvas, drill, herringbone, mini-twill, Lycra poplin, dobby, yarn dyed and corduroy. Within knits we deal with fleece, single jersey, interlock, recycled pet poly, upcycled wool and pointelle.

What are the future plans for the company?

As impact itself is of greater importance to the company, scaling up the company is imperative. Through our training programmes, we would like to reach out to more women and our commitment to organic farmers enables us to increase sustainable organic farming practices as well. We also want to introduce innovative fibres and fabrics with a technological edge, and enter new international markets for exports.

Is Pondicherry a good place for a garment factory?

Absolutely. Pondicherry is a melting pot of people, cultures and ideals, fuelled by a spiritual ambience. I think it is a perfect place for Mandala Apparels as it aligns with the core values of the city itself.

How environmentally sustainable are your manufacturing units?

Mandala Apparels strongly believes in reducing, recycling and upcycling. Our paper waste is sent for recycling and fabric wastes are split into small and big wastes. The big waste goes to Goonj, an organisation based out of New Delhi. They developed and are continuing the not just a piece of cloth (NJPC) project that makes affordable sanitary napkins from waste cloth. The smaller waste bits are planned to be used to make patch work with quilting for self-help groups. Knit fabric wastes are sold to hand-made paper factories in and around Pondicherry. We are planning to collect food waste and convert into compost.

Which category brings you more business?

Garments for adults comprises 51 per cent of our business while kidswear is 46 per cent.

What are your R & D activities?

We are working with weavers, dyers and printers to create novel fabrics. So, most of our research goes into this; besides, we are also trying to use recycled/upcycled fabric and also creating them. We experiment with colours that we can obtain on these fabrics.

How many machines and workers do you have?

At present, we have 130 machines and 200 workers and out of which 80 per cent are women.

Do you follow any innovative schemes and plans?

I believe in innovations. It is one of the key aspects in evolving as a company. We are constantly working on facilitating our employees with skill development programmes, medical campaigns, financial awareness programmes, happiness programmes in collaboration with Art of Living, etc. This enables them to have a holistic approach towards life.

How many factories do you have?

I have one factory now and I'm looking at expanding this.

Does the company develop/weave organic textiles too?

Yes, we develop organic textiles with our suppliers.

Do cotton prices affect your business?

Yes, but it is never a hindrance for our company. Our company has given a commitment towards purchasing certain quantity of organic cotton from our suppliers for the next one year. We are extremely proud and happy about this. We are always more than ready to pay for what organic cotton deserves.

Is the company employing any innovative techniques in design production, etc?

We are working on innovative techniques with weavers, but as far as design production is concerned, the buyers provide that and we follow those.

Would you like to say anything more about your company?

Mandala Apparels is dedicated to creating a holistic approach to business that would sustain circular design in the fashion industry. Currently, our production constitutes 65 per cent of organic production, 5 per cent of non-organic, 2 per cent of eco-tex and 28 per cent of fair trade organic production. We are looking forward to escalating this strategically. Moreover, we are working on new strategies to strengthen our new market penetration. This would enable us not only to upscale business, but also facilitate more employment opportunities for local communities. Our training and skill development programmes help us build a robust bridge in achieving this vision. Mandala Apparels' ESR is a conscious business approach. It is a competitive edge that has helped us in achieving a transparent sustainable supply chain and establishing working relationships with our cotton farmers. As a result of robust working relationships with our farmers, we have been able to encourage them in achieving food security through poly-cropping (mixed cultivation of other grains along with organic cotton). We adhere to the 10 principles of Fair Trade Certification, and through this our employees and their families' well-being is ensured.
Published on: 18/03/2016

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.