Interview with Pranav Sachdeva

There are no particular specifications that high street labels look for. Each brand has its own story, an image, and an identity reflected through products it offers. Each is unique and that is why different people relate to different brands. From previous times high-street labels have become extremely cautious about the products they purchase, the process route they opt for and even the composition of the fabric, now days we see a lot of organic cotton and BCI (better cotton initiative) cotton being purchased. When an order is placed, there are specifications that need to be met, which may differ from fabric to fabric. Those parameters are checked through fabric performance tests which can also be conducted at third party labs. We have in-house capabilities that match any testing lab outside and certified by leading fashion labels like H&M for whom we are the only gold supplier for knitted fabric in India.

The Indian knitting industry, like the textile industry, is completely based on demand. Buyers look towards India for cost effective products and quality that can be easily manufactured, yet does not require a great deal of technical knowledge. This is primarily due to the stereotype that comes with the image of the country. Things are changing as India establishes an image of a technically sound country that can execute what other intellectual powers of the world may be able to. The perspective of buyers is also changing, making them more receptive to a slightly higher charge for innovations from this part of the world. It is not that India does not have the capabilities of executing such quality but that this quality costs significantly more, which in turn disappoints buyers who expect only low cost products from India. Focus on cost is important and profit margins in the industry are shrinking fast. Cost of production is increasing due to high inflation. According to guidelines issued by the Central Pollution Control Board, a lot of industries including the dyeing industry will soon have to implement zero liquid discharge for which capital investment is so huge that it would cripple companies that do not displace so much weight in the market. When it comes to unconventional qualities, the Indian textile industry and especially the knitting industry will be able to do more. But will buyers be willing to consider India for more atypical products at a premium? So it will be safe to conclude that the future will be a test of the survival of the fittest.

We have very recently come up with an addition and added printing capabilities. This has helped us add value to our products. It is the perfect mix that garment manufacturers look for, which is a mill that can give them the fabric and also the print for which they usually have to go to another company. This includes spending a significant amount of time on logistical movement of goods and also increasing their risk in case of quality issues. At Mercury, it becomes our responsibility to deliver goods with required parameters, making us totally accountable. Because of this, garment manufacturers can be sure that they can get back to us in case of any undesirable circumstances. Due to this addition in our capability, we have been able to penetrate markets like Sri Lanka and Bangladesh providing them with a product from just one source. Earlier, they had to source from two or more different sources. It is completely in line with our strategic vision - a belief that the countries in the South Asian region will experience heightened regional cooperation and trade benefits in the near future. This would be a stepping stone, leaving a lasting imprint.

I would not call the manufacturers big players. No matter how big a manufacturer might be, a significant portion of production capacity is occupied by the buyers they produce for, and those buyers procure from multiple manufacturers that have the same capacities and capabilities. Therefore, it would be fair to say that the real big players are multi-national buyers which have the capacity to feed many assumed big players in the manufacturing arena.

We offer an array of different blends from cotton modal, cotton viscose, bamboo viscose, tencil bamboo, viscose wool and supima cotton modal with all of them being made with lycra. Depending on the permutations and combinations of structures, compositions, prints and finishes we can offer almost 400 different types of qualities.

Before we launched Mercury, there was a great deal of deliberation. It was my father's priority to gauge in which direction the wind was blowing, the potential of countries abroad, the basic needs of the industry and the potential of our own domestic market. Keeping this in mind, Mercury was established on the premise of superlative products at a competitive price, bringing together the best of technology from across the world coupled with economical Indian manufacturing. Fortunately, we were right. With a mix of machines from various countries like Italy, Japan, Germany and the United Kingdom we can cater to most demands of buyers abroad. They usually look for Lycra-based fabrics and reactive prints, which is our core strength. With the addition of our printing capabilities we now offer reactive prints unlike most printing plants that lack the right printing equipment. We have added a machine which is a pre-requisite for unparalleled reactive prints, which is also the first of its kind in India.

We have several unconventional products including anti-microbial, wrinkle-free and UV-finishes on the fabric to technology that could turn the fabric into insect repellents.

We believe in sustainable development. Consumption of natural resources at a rapid pace, use of inappropriate material for production and a rising environmental pollution have far-reaching consequences, not only for us but for generations to come. It is the responsibility of human beings to take appropriate action. Keeping this in mind, we have launched an initiative, Target Zero. We have pledged to recycle a significant amount of water, almost close to 100 per cent. We have also pledged to completely eliminate our carbon emissions by 2019 and have totally restricted the use of unfit chemicals. This is just a step forward from our side and we hope to do more.