Our approach is rooted in inclusive sustainability
Sappi Limited, a global leader in woodfibre-based renewable materials, continues to shape the future of sustainable textiles through innovation, education, and responsible forestry. With a diversified portfolio that includes dissolving pulp, packaging, speciality and graphic papers, and biomaterials, Sappi is committed to driving a circular economy while supporting both environmental stewardship and community development. Under the leadership of Bernhard Riegler, VP Marketing Dissolving Pulp, the company actively engaging across the textile value chain to promote the benefits of wood-based fibres. In this exclusive conversation with Fibre2Fashion, Riegler shares insights into how Sappi is navigating industry challenges, embracing emerging trends, and playing an important role in building a more sustainable textile future.
Companies often talk about sustainability and report this in numerous metrics and analysis. How does Sappi view the subject of sustainability?
Companies often speak about sustainability through various metrics and analyses, but at Sappi, we believe it goes far beyond environmental impact. As a forestry operation—particularly in South Africa, where we own approximately 400,000 hectares of plantation land—our approach is rooted in what we call inclusive sustainability, which encompasses Planet, People, and Prosperity.
In emerging economies with high dependency ratios, income inequality, and poverty, our people and their communities are central to our sustainability efforts. True sustainability cannot exist where basic survival is a daily struggle. When people live close to the poverty line, immediate needs take precedence, and issues like environmental conservation are deprioritised. Education suffers, and communities can fall into a cycle of decline.
At Sappi, we are committed to uplifting both our employees and the communities in which we operate. We believe that fostering prosperity at every level will, in turn, have a positive ripple effect on all dimensions of sustainability— from biodiversity conservation and reduced environmental footprint to improved education and long-term community development.
The forestry and pulp industry has traditionally maintained a low profile. Is that still the case today, and how does Sappi view its visibility within the broader textile landscape?
This has definitely changed over the years. Forestry and pulp are now gaining recognition, particularly within the context of sustainable sourcing and the global shift towards renewable resources. Responsible players in this industry, like Sappi, have long practised sustainability—well before it became the global focus it is today. This legacy places us in a strong position to start telling our story more confidently and prominently.
To put it simply, we often compare our role in the textile industry to that of the new kid on the block. This new kid has some incredibly exciting, educational, and meaningful ‘toys’—representing our sustainable solutions, community initiatives, and renewable innovations—and is eager to share them. We believe that once the industry gets to know us, they will be just as enthusiastic about what we bring to the table.
We are now stepping out, making connections, and inviting others to engage with us—to visit our operations, meet our people, and see first-hand that we are not only responsible but also a valuable and trustworthy partner. It is about building relationships and showing that we are the kind of company others will want to collaborate with in shaping a more sustainable future.
How does Sappi collaborate with customers and brands to promote the benefits of sustainably sourced dissolving pulp in fashion and textiles?
Our approach begins with education, which is essential to understanding the true sustainability of woodfibre. We focus not only on environmental sustainability but also on the social and economic development of the communities where we operate.
One of our key initiatives is an annual Learning Journey, where we invite brands and industry stakeholders to South Africa for a week-long immersive experience. Participants are taken through the entire process—from seed to seedling, to plantation, and ultimately to dissolving pulp production. This journey offers a detailed, hands-on view of sustainable tree farming and the science behind it.
Equally important, the experience includes exposure to our community upliftment projects, biodiversity conservation efforts, and water security initiatives. It is a powerful, first-hand encounter with how forestry and sustainability intersect across environmental and community dimensions. Attendees consistently leave with a deeper understanding of responsible forestry and its role in supporting both ecosystems and people.
What are the key challenges facing the dissolving wood pulp (DWP) industry, and how is Sappi addressing them?
One of the most significant challenges facing the DWP industry is education. There remains a widespread lack of understanding across the value chain about the sustainability of renewable forestry and the benefits of wood-based fibres. Many still perceive wood fibres negatively, associating them with deforestation simply because their production involves tree harvesting. This generalisation overlooks the clear distinction between unsustainable deforestation and responsibly managed, certified plantations.
Certified tree plantations are comparable to agricultural crops like maize or cotton—as long as they are managed transparently, are traceable, and meet rigorous certification standards. The challenge lies in changing the narrative around forestry, helping stakeholders understand that these plantations not only provide a renewable fibre source, but also deliver environmental benefits. For example, around 20 per cent of the global population depends on forests, and trees play a key role in absorbing CO2 and emitting oxygen during their growth cycle. Mature trees gradually reduce this capacity, so harvesting and replanting helps maintain high levels of carbon absorption and oxygen release over time.
At Sappi, we are actively addressing this challenge by differentiating ourselves from unsustainable actors in the forestry industry. We highlight our responsible forestry practices, stringent wood sourcing policies, and commitment to transparency and traceability. Crucially, we are also evolving how we communicate. It is no longer just about presenting facts and figures to our direct customers—it is about telling the forestry story throughout the entire value chain. This approach is already making a meaningful impact in helping stakeholders understand the difference between sustainable and unsustainable forestry.
To remain relevant and foster growth, what changes or actions does the DWP industry need to undertake?
The DWP industry must engage more actively with players further down the value chain—from yarn spinners and fabric manufacturers to brands and retailers. It is essential to understand their evolving needs, expectations, and sustainability goals. Currently, DWP loses its identity once it is converted into fibre, and with that loss of pedigree, the industry loses its voice. At Sappi, we believe it is critical to reclaim that voice and maintain visibility throughout the entire value chain.
Another important consideration is the scale of influence. The DWP sector remains relatively small within the textile industry. To illustrate this, the combined revenue of the global DWP industry is roughly equivalent to the R&D budget of the oil sector. Therefore, we must innovate not only to improve emissions and efficiencies but also to enhance the properties of woodfibre so it can better replicate the qualities of fossil fuel-based fibres.
Synthetic fibres currently make up about 70 million tonnes of the textile market and are one of the biggest barriers to effective textile recycling. Even replacing just two to three per cent of these synthetics with advanced wood-based alternatives could significantly benefit sustainability. While synthetics possess unique characteristics that are difficult to replicate, we believe it is possible to develop new woodfibre-based fibres and yarns that can substitute for some of these properties. This is not an unrealistic goal—it is a tangible step towards a more sustainable future for the textile industry.
Textile waste is widely considered the biggest challenge in the textile industry, with recycling seen as the ultimate goal. What are your thoughts on this issue, and what role is Sappi playing in addressing it?
Textile waste is indeed a major concern, and the industry must urgently find solutions. However, textile recycling faces several significant and, as yet, unresolved challenges:
- There is still a lack of focused effort at the design stage to promote circularity. Designers often use fibre blends and treatments that make recycling more complex. Designing with end-of-life recycling in mind would simplify the process considerably.
- Fibre blends present another major issue. A 100 per cent cellulosic blend—such as cotton and viscose—is relatively simple to recycle at scale using current technologies. Likewise, 100 per cent polyester can also be recycled, though it presents sustainability concerns, as a portion always ends up in landfill. While cellulosic fibres are biodegradable, polyester is not.
- The collection and sorting of textile waste remain a massive hurdle. The sheer variety of garments— with differing fibres, finishes, dyes, and accessories—complicates identification and recycling. Sorting, removing elements like zips and buttons, and fibre recognition all impact recyclability and the waste treatment process.
- Finally, we must be cautious about being seduced by the idea of recycling. The term itself is appealing and reassuring, but it must be supported by sound science. If the environmental impact of a recycling process is greater than the original problem, we risk doing more harm than good. In such cases, we should instead channel efforts towards renewable, biodegradable fibres and designing products for those materials.
At Sappi, we have undertaken extensive lab research to better understand and help solve this issue. Our focus continues to be on advancing sustainable fibre technologies while closely tracking the development of practical recycling solutions.
What emerging trends do you believe will shape the future of the DWP industry, and how is Sappi preparing to navigate them?
A major trend that will influence the DWP industry is the escalating global trade war. Its ripple effects are wide-ranging—tariffs are affecting consumer demand, altering the economic viability of producers, shifting production centres, and reshaping global shipping routes. We are only beginning to grasp the extent of this disruption, and the implications are deeply concerning.
Another powerful trend lies in the changing dynamics of consumer buying behaviour. Traditionally, cotton and viscose are considered summer fibres, while synthetics dominate winter wardrobes. With climate change driving warmer winters and hotter summers globally, the demand for lighter fabrics is expected to increase. However, this shift is not uniform across regions.
By mapping climate trends alongside projected middle-class growth, a clear pattern emerges. For instance, North America and Europe are experiencing relatively minor increases in middle-class population—fewer than five million new entrants annually. In contrast, the Asia-Pacific region, including the Indian subcontinent, is projected to see approximately 150 million people per year move into the middle class between 2022 and 2030. As more people in these warmer regions gain disposable income, they are likely to expand their wardrobes—with a preference for lightweight clothing suited to their climates. This bodes well for cellulosic fibres such as viscose and other DWP-derived fibres.
Sappi is strategically positioning itself to meet this anticipated demand. We are focused on expanding our DWP capacity—not only by optimising our current operations but also by exploring potential new assets. Our confidence in market growth led to the expansion of our Saiccor Mill in 2022, increasing its nameplate capacity from 780,000 to 890,000 tonnes per annum. This added capacity is already fully committed, reflecting the strength of current and future demand.
Looking ahead, what is your outlook on DWP and, more broadly, wood-based fibres in the future of textiles?
DWP, produced from certified forestry, is a truly renewable resource. Wood-based fibres derived from this source not only offer renewability but also the inherent benefits of cellulosic fibres—they are biodegradable, compostable, and recyclable. In contrast, fossil fuel-based fibres are used primarily for their properties and cost advantages. Cotton, while an excellent fibre and sustainable when farmed responsibly, is facing growth limitations. Cotton cultivation competes with food crops for land and is highly vulnerable to climate variability and extreme weather.
Wood, on the other hand, is a renewable resource that can expand in line with growing textile fibre demand. As cotton production plateaus and the industry shifts increasingly towards circular design and sustainability, we anticipate that wood-based fibres will exceed the average textile demand growth of two per cent per annum. In fact, we expect them to outperform even their ten-year cumulative average growth rate of four to six per cent.
Wood fibre is cost-effective, versatile, sustainable, renewable— and crucially—available. At present, it represents approximately six per cent of the global textile market. By 2035, we expect this share to grow to nearly ten per cent. Assuming the textile market reaches around 150 million tonnes by then, this would mean DWP volumes doubling from approximately seven million tonnes in 2025 to 15 million tonnes in 2035. This growth will be driven by greater value chain alignment towards sustainable, renewable fibres that also support textile recycling processes.
