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Interview with Cornelia Buchwalder

Cornelia Buchwalder
Cornelia Buchwalder
Secretary General
Swissmem
Swissmem

With Swiss Companies, Quality is Guaranteed
Swissmem is the leading association for SMEs and large companies in Switzerland's mechanical and electrical engineering (MEM) industries and related technology-oriented sectors. The Swiss Textile Machinery Association is the oldest sector, founded in 1940. It represents the interests of the Swiss textile machinery manufacturers. Speaking to Fibre2Fashion, Cornelia Buchwalder, Secretary General of Swissmem, says that in the world of textile manufacturing, ITMA is really the ‘greatest show on earth’.

How is the Swiss textile machinery industry reviving post-pandemic?

Despite the pandemic, 2020 and 2021 were good years for the Swiss textile machinery industry. Although order intake remained at a high level in 2022 thanks to a strong first half of the year, it fell sharply in the second half of 2022 in view of the economic slowdown in the main sales markets. This significant slowdown in the global economy is also increasingly impacting sales.
 

How important is ITMA 2023 for Swiss Textile Machinery member companies?

Not only for us, but also for the visitors from the textile manufacturers from across the globe, ITMA is vitally important, and a major element in the overall development of the industry worldwide.
Our association is a major player in textiles. Established in 1940, it now includes 44 member firms, covering the entire textile value chain. Together, these companies have a total of more than 4,000 years of experience, and an unrivalled international reputation for innovation and quality.
The 2023 ITMA is fully booked – clear evidence of its continued appeal as the essential marked place for textile machinery. And its importance is underlined by the participation of more than 50 Swiss exhibitors, most of which are members of the Textile Machinery Association. We will be there in Milan, because we know it is the perfect opportunity to show the world what we offer.

Is ITMA really still a focus for the timing of major innovations in technology?

That is certainly the way the ITMA shows have been viewed in the past. Today, it is not the only forum for innovation, which is now more of an ongoing process of collaborative effort between machinery companies and their customers. But ITMA remains a four-yearly milestone in technology, where industry visitors rightly expect to see the best and latest ideas from their suppliers. It is increasingly interesting to evaluate how innovations fit into the wider textile value chain, rather than in a company’s own specialised branch of the sector.

What were the export figures for 2022?

Swiss textile machinery exports were 2.8 per cent higher in 2022 than in 2021. The main export markets were China, India, Germany, Türkiye and the USA. However, this should not hide the fact that the markets are slowing down and that this growth was mainly due to the good first half of the year.

In times of geo-political tensions and power supply issues in Europe, how are the Swiss textile machinery companies performing?

We live in a time with probably more simultaneous challenges than ever before. The Ukraine war, the related energy shortages in Europe, and the still unresolved supply chain challenges. Added to this are the high inflation rates and the resulting curbing of consumption, to name just the most prevalent ones. Of course, these are the challenges that industry in all countries face. Here, too, the Swiss textile machinery industry’s longstanding ability to seize opportunities from the situation will carry them through this difficult time.

Obviously, Swiss Textile Machinery companies will want to use this big event to grow their business and expand sales. Are there other motivations for exhibiting at ITMA 2023?

Yes, that’s a primary goal for sure. But we do not underestimate the superb networking opportunities it will bring, fostering shared knowledge and experience with both new and existing partners. Significantly, 2023 will be one of the first really major shows for textiles since the coronavirus pandemic put a stop to personal business interactions. It will be great to enjoy face-to-face meetings again this time. We have a lot to talk about!
For our member firms, it is also a chance to focus on how our products, components and services stack up against competitors’ offerings, and gauge the reaction from visitors to our booths. It is good to be able to review and compare our own performance in the spotlight of a massive event like ITMA.

What would the Swiss Textile Machinery Association aim to achieve at ITMA?

One of our key goals would be to assure visitors that Switzerland is seen in the vanguard of progress in both sophisticated digital solutions and sustainable solutions. Sustainability has a double meaning for us: the ability to offer continuing benefits and enduring performance for our customers, while embracing every aspect of sustainable production to the highest standards of environmental responsibility.
We achieve these standards through significant investments in R&D – a major slice of revenue for most of our members – and by close cooperation with experts in the leading products, components and services. ‘Innovation is in our DNA’ is more than a slogan: we have the history of achievements to prove it.

When do you expect the markets and demands to stabilise?

Irrespective of inflation, the leading economic indicators give no cause for optimism. Although unemployment rates in the industrialised countries remain very low by historical standards, consumer sentiment is at an all-time low in the face of rapidly rising prices and major geopolitical risks. In all major economic regions, consumer sentiment is well into contractionary territory. These indicators suggest that it will take some time for consumer and business sentiment to turn around.

What kind of support is the association and the Swiss government providing to the industries in the textile machinery sector?

As an association, we support our members in many ways. On the one hand, we promote the Swiss textile machinery industry. Be it via symposia in markets such as Indonesia last August. Or through our presence on social media. Furthermore, we invest a lot in innovation support for our member companies. We regularly organise company-specific workshops on current topics and challenges. Currently, we are focusing on the topic of sustainability. We also work together with universities and training institutes to promote cooperation in Switzerland and other countries. Most recently, we signed a memorandum of understanding with the DKTE during India ITME.
Unlike other (European) countries, the Swiss government does little direct industrial promotion. However, it is more important to us that the government sets good framework conditions so that Swiss industry can continue to produce in Switzerland, find good employees and have close access to the very good Swiss university landscape. These factors are much more important to ensure the long-term competitiveness of the Swiss textile machinery industry.

What is it that makes Swiss machinery so special?

Of course, there are respected textile machinery suppliers in other countries too! Switzerland though has the reputation, earned over many decades, of the highest levels of excellence and precision in all aspects of manufacturing and engineering. Textile machines, components and services rightly share that status. Our in-house production systems are cutting-edge and sustainable. Customers say it for us: with Swiss companies, quality is guaranteed.

Why should textile industry visitors go to ITMA 2023? Couldn’t they just stay at home and get the info they need online?

Well, maybe, but there is nothing quite like seeing a new machine or an exciting innovation up and running in the bustling halls of a major show. Live demonstrations at timed intervals are often crowded with eager visitors – for a good reason. It is the way to be inspired and find solutions that could literally change your business outlook, and actually grow your profits.
ITMA 2023 will also give visitors a chance to speak personally with the experts from machinery companies, to ask those ‘difficult’ questions and get the full story behind a vital innovation. How will it fit into an existing production environment, will it help to reduce waste, will it help to improve profitability etc.
Then there are the big questions, about investment costs and funding. Big deals are started at ITMA, and contracts are often finalised – admittedly sometimes as a publicity boost. Visitors can also compare offers from different providers. Obviously, we hope the choice is for the Swiss option!
Ultimately, ITMA is a celebration of the achievements of the global textile community, and an opportunity to foster the kind of innovative developments that future generations will be proud of.

What have been some of technologies and innovations that have come out in the last two years at Swissmem for the textile sector?

Both digitalisation and sustainability are not just buzzwords but continue to influence all developments and innovations.
Regarding sustainability, it is and stays a big and very important topic. It has been for years, but now it is even more important due to the new EU strategy for sustainable textiles. As an association, we have also taken on this topic and are currently running an individual programme for our member companies. Of course, some member companies are already very advanced in this topic, but others are certainly able to benefit.
Digitalisation offers a wide range of opportunities, be it in product or process optimisation or in the development of completely new business models. Our member companies use these opportunities to generate maximum customer benefit.

Today, it is important that all machines and solutions become more efficient and also transition to intelligent manufacturing. How much do Swissmem spend on R&D to achieve this transition?

It is the 12th year in a row that Switzerland has topped the World Intellectual Property Organisation's (WIPO’s) Global Innovation Index, which is based on dozens of indicators in over 130 countries. The report examines areas such as patents, advanced technology and the complexity of production and exports.
WIPO stated that the combination of strong research, the ability to finance innovation and the rapid application of private sector technology in economic markets were factors of the Swiss success.
The Swiss textile machinery industry operates in this environment and therefore has the best framework conditions to work continuously on innovations. 

Any other point that you would like to add about the ITMA fair?

ITMA continues to be the Olympics of textile machinery exhibitions. Accordingly, all Swiss exhibitors have great expectations of the upcoming ITMA in Milano. Even though the current business climate has been hampered by the challenges, it will be the place to meet in 2023.
Exhibitor spaces are almost sold out, visitor tickets are already being taken and there are new features at the exhibition. For example, for the first time there is a Start-up Valley, where sixteen young companies will present their solutions for our industry. 
Switzerland is once again in the top six of the largest exhibiting countries. With this in mind, Swiss exhibitors are looking forward to meeting customers and partners from all over the world to tackle the challenges of the global textile industry together.

How do you envisage the future for Swiss textile machinery association?

To answer this question, I would like to go back in time… Many of the companies in our association of textile machinery manufacturers were founded in the second half of the 19th century, which have gone through many ups and downs and have gained outstanding reputation over time. Having such a long history, the Swiss companies have constantly managed to anticipate changes, developed their business strategy, and have continuously evolved. With this history, I am very sure that Swiss companies will also play an eminent role in the (textile) world of tomorrow.

What breakthrough technologies for the textile industry will Swiss companies showcase at ITMA 2023?

In the world of textile manufacturing, ITMA is really the ‘greatest show on earth’, as it is where the progress of textile and clothing technology is measured and benchmarked against previous years, and vital contacts are made between customers and suppliers worldwide. Swiss companies are renowned for their innovative spirit and commitment to the four-yearly exhibition series. Looking ahead to ITMA 2023 in Milan (June 8-14), as always, the companies will present their innovations at the exhibition. However, it can be assumed that the areas of automation, digitalisation and the further development of machines and solutions to reduce the consumption of raw materials such as energy, water and chemicals will be the focus.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 08/06/2023

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.

This interview was first published in the Jun 2023 edition of the print magazine

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