Companies that embrace the philosophy of "I'm going to design a product and hope the consumer likes it," are quickly on the same path as of the dinosaur...
Sally Kay is the President and CEO of The Hosiery Association (THA). She shares her opinions about the various aspects of the legwear industry of USA with Fibre2Fashion Correspondent Manushi Gandhi.
Synopsis:
Founded in 1905, The Hosiery Association (THA) is a 108 years organization that works actively even today to preserve and promote the interest of people related to the legwear industry across the world. More than 90 percent of the legwear products sold in the US are represented by THA members. The organization provides special legal, technical as well as public relation support to its members. Legwear segment mainly includes products like socks, stockings etc.
Sally Kay is associated with THA from last 23 years and loves the legwear industry. She has a vast knowledge of the legwear industry and handles key responsibilities like spokes person for the industry, publicity expert, media, government and legislative relationship etc. Sally currently serves on the Government's ITAC #13, the Cotton Board and NC State's College of Textiles Advisory Board. She is also a guest lecturer at NC State's College of Textiles.
Excerpts:
What makes you so much interested in the textile and apparel sector?
I’ve worked with THA for almost 23 years now and have truly grown to love the legwear industry. I share the passion that many of the leaders do as well as embrace their entrepreneurial spirit. I have enjoyed working with the industry, the consumer, the government and the media to educate them about our variety of products. Yes, we do provide commodity products, but we also provide fashion accessories, and clearly foot protection. Our products blend function with fashion in every aspect. As our tagline say...we cover all walks of life.
What kinds of improvements are required in the global legwear market?
There are over 7 billion people on the earth, that means there are close to 7 billion pairs of feet and legs. The challenge is ensure that as many pairs of feet and legs as possible are wearing some type of legwear product. The industry needs to continuously leverage technology both machinery and raw materials, to meet the growing demands of consumers. Smart companies are those that offer solutions to a problem, i.e. comfort, enhance performance, support, odor protection, moisture management and moisturizing, repel insects, heal wounds, UV protection from the sun, etc. Companies that embrace the philosophy of “I’m going to design a product and hope the consumer likes it,” are quickly on the same path as of the dinosaur...they just don’t know it yet.
USA market has been trying to recover from the recession. What can be expected from the legwear market?
The US legwear market has been somewhat insulated by the recent economic volatility. In fact, some categories have flourished. Fashion driven products for both men and women are now available in a variety of retail distribution channels, which means that there are also a variety of price points from which to choose. Men are using socks to accessorize their outfits both business and casual, in a similar fashion to ties. Women are selecting different types of hosiery products to accessorize the same dress/suit, but the various types of hosiery can completely change the look. It is far more cost effective to purchase most legwear items than it is to be a new dress, skirt, pants, suit for men/women. The athletic sock market has also done well. Many are choosing to exercise more outdoors as opposed to spending money on a gym membership, walking/biking to work/store rather than taking a cab/driving-costs associated with gas/car maintenance.
Does the association support only the dealers of hosiery or other types of fabrics as well?
THA members consist of makers, marketers, distributors and sellers of hosiery/legwear products for the entire family. Additionally, any type of supplier like machinery, yarns, fibers, chemicals, packaging or service provider to the legwear industry is eligible for membership. THA membership is open to any eligible company worldwide.
What the various testing and labeling standards to be followed by textile or apparel producers in USA?
Testing and labeling are regulated by the government. These are very complex rules. Some are focused specifically on children’s products and others on all types of legwear products. Consumer product safety in general is a growing concern. Some states, such as California, have specific laws (California Proposition 65) which restricts the use of certain chemicals in consumer products. If it cannot be proven that those chemicals are not in the goods, the goods must either be marked/signage in place that states the fact that the product may pose a health risk to the consumer.
The apparel/legwear industry is beginning to experience these additional testing procedure/labeling requests from the retailer. (Prop 65). The Restricted Substance List (RSL) is another tool used by the retail community that reviews what chemicals are not allowed in the respective goods. The list is somewhat varied by retailer and the number of restricted substances is increasing.
Additional testing/labeling could be required by the retailer which depends on the retailer and the geographic sales.
What are the challenges faced by the legwear industry?
The challenges faced by the legwear industry frankly depend on the particular product type. For instance, the ladies’ pantyhose hosiery industry has consolidated since it is no longer required in the workplace as it once was in the 80’s. New segments, such as shaping garments, capri length hosiery, etc. have consequently evolved. Fashion hosiery is popular among younger consumers but the sales of the traditional waist high garment will not return to those which the industry experienced in the 1970’s through the late 1990’s. The companies who produce high-end products for the consumer who can afford luxury hosiery will remain competitive, but that market share is very small.
Those companies that make and sell socks in the “white goods” or commodity business are constantly faced with downward price pressure from the retailer on side and the rising costs of raw materials on the other squeeze the manufacturer further, who already operates on razor thin margins. Over 75% of all legwear products in the US are currently sold through the mass retailers.
Industry needs to remember is that the US consumer only represents 5% of the global marketplace. That means there is an additional 95% who has market potential. Companies need to be proficient in exporting their goods to new markets. There are those, too, who need to learn how to market the products they make to sell within their own domestic marketplace. After all, we are creatures of habit and change can be very difficult to experience. The companies who are willing to change, adapt and be flexible in their operations are the ones will who not only survive but thrive.
What have been the major achievements by The Hosiery association in past two years?
For over 108 years The Hosiery Association (THA) has been solving problems for its member companies and served as the backbone for the legwear industry. THA is the only international nonprofit trade association exclusively representing the specific needs of legwear companies that produce and sell more than 90 percent of the products in the US. Supplier companies to the industry also play a major role in membership and sponsorship of THA.
Tell us something about the legwear industry i.e. kind of products, market trends, demand and supply etc.
The legwear industry represents a large variety of products...innovation is a driving trend in the performance sock market, particularly. What are the added benefits to the product...could it be compression, arch support, moisture management, moisturizing? Niche markets continue to evolve...walking, hiking, running, skating, skiing, yoga. Wellness and fitness are important way of life...exercise in general. Fashion for both men and women feature legwear/socks as key accessories. Celebrities and iconic figures both film, professional sports and past US presidents have positioned socks/hosiery to the forefront.
What is the significance of legwear production in the total textile/apparel industrial sector of USA?
The US legwear segment is one of the healthiest segments that remains within the overall textile/apparel industry. Unlike apparel, which requires various operational components to complete the finished consumer ready product, legwear can be a vertically integrated operation. What that means is that some facilities have the ability to take raw materials and transform them into a finished consumer ready product.
Today’s US legwear companies quickly realized they need to become far more efficient in their manufacturing processes as they witnessed apparel companies flee off-shore. What’s interesting to note now is that I continue to receive inquiries on a weekly basis from both retailers and marketers looking for US production. Yes, there are a variety of markets to supply like commodity, medical, fashion, performance, casual, etc., but the bottom line is that successful companies regardless of geographic location get the right product on the right consumers feet and legs before their competition does.
How THA helps its members?
THA implements its mission through the following tactics:
-Proactively representing its members' concerns and positions before all branches of government on a continuous basis.
-Communicating information to promote its members worldwide.
-Fostering an environment that is conducive for members to exchange best practices and technological innovations.
Legwear manufacturers, marketers, distributor and suppliers who are striving to improve their business and the industry as a whole will find that THA services will benefit and assist them in the following areas:
-Legislation/Regulations
-Technical
-Webinars & Conferences
-Publications/Public Relations
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