Millennials, new consumers look for transparency & traceability, not price
Portugal-based Tintex manufactures high quality, natural and hybrid jersey fabrics using the latest and most sustainable hi-tech dyeing and finishing processes for contemporary fashion, sports and lingerie markets. CEO Mario Jorge Silva chats in detail about sustainable materials used at Tintex and its autumn/winter 2019 collection.
How has the use of knitted fabrics evolved in the last decade in garments?
Two decades ago, Portugal was just a manufacturing country and when the global industry moved into Asia and other areas, Portugal needed to evolve to differentiate itself from the market to adapt quickly. We understood that we needed to innovate to create different approaches to not only the product, but also the strategy and the service side. Today Portugal innovates on both sides. Our flexibility enables us to create innovative materials and technologies that suits contemporary consumers' needs.
It is not easy. However, we adapt quickly and can be flexible with new products and business models as well. Digitalisation allows us to reduce lead times by 15-30 per cent and that is why general and modern fashion is coming back to Europe, especially to Portugal. In the last year, we have seen a big change in our customers around the world. They want to do everything, including materials and manufacturing, in Portugal because of our flexibility. They trust us and the quality of what we manufacture, resulting in our partners delivering the best garments at a competitive price.
What are the challenges of manufacturing sustainable jersey fabrics/ responsible production?
To keep up with the latest technologies, we always need to be at the forefront around the world and not just in Portugal. We are in every country that creates new technologies to learn what is new and create partnerships with companies. That is our biggest strength at present because these companies believe in what we do. With the knowledge from our partners, we can transfer this expertise internally to our different teams in sales, new technologies and research and development (R&D). We are committed to a continuous programme of sustainable innovations and refinement throughout processing, production and supply of better made natural textiles. Through our efforts, we have incorporated 70 per cent improvement in reducing environmental impact in resources, production and processing.
What is the annual production capacity of sustainable jersey fabrics at Tintex?
Our industrial equipment allows a maximum production capacity of nearly 7 million metres of jersey fabrics per year. At the current yearly average of 5 million metres produced, we have still room to increase production volumes without changing layouts.
What is the new generation cotton being used at Tintex? How is it different from traditional cotton?
In the last season, we proudly announced our complete switch from the use of conventional cotton and the concomitant launch of a new fabric range, which is the highest expression of the new generation of cotton-the Naturally Advanced Cotton by Tintex. This new amazing range is able to offer an advanced choice of three different premium and responsible cotton solutions, such as Ecotec by Marchi & Fildi, the unique cotton produced in Italy that saves up to 77.9 per cent of water in comparison to the conventional one, Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)-certified organic cotton and Supima cotton grown in the United States.
In addition to this, Tintex is pleased to announce its membership with Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), a not-for-profit organisation to improve global cotton production. Through BCI and its partners, farmers receive training on how to use water efficiently, care for the health of soil and natural habitats, reduce use of harmful chemicals and apply decent work principles.
What is the percentage share responsible jersey fabrics claim in the global knitted fabric market? Is this number growing?
Millennials, new consumers and the next generation want to have the most information possible on the products they buy. They no longer buy just on price, but on the story. For that, we need to be fully traceable and transparent, which is one of the key aspects of sustainability. In addition, the environmental impact needs to be as low as possible and we need to communicate this. That is why sustainability combines traceability with low environmental impact. Our department of sustainability optimises fashion solutions that not only provide high performance natural textiles, but enable us to rise as global leaders striving towards superior responsible fashion systems.
We have earned the trust of our partners and customers. That way, we can have sustainable growth boosting our reputation and corporate identity. Our business is growing. We no longer just sell more; we create base layers for sustainable growth using excellent aesthetics and low environmental impact.
Today, all new Tintex textile and design innovations boast up to 90 per cent use of more sustainable materials, including 40 per cent contemporary cottons within the Naturally Advanced Cotton collection, 40 per cent tencel, modal and micromodal, 20 per cent other smart materials like cupro, seacell, organic linens and roica, all supported with original or brand suppliers' supported certifications.
What did you showcase in your autumn/winter 2019 collection at the recent Premier Vision?
Our autumn/winter 2019-20 collection includes vibrant tones, refreshing turquoise, electric green, light and warm copper with chocolate browns that connect the natural and spiritual in an extra-sensorial universe. The collect was infused with a stunning palette of nostalgic and multicultural colours-warm yellow with darkened reds, dynamic purple with urban greys-that express globalisation and human connection.
Key smart ingredients of the season are:
- A new generation of cotton: GOTS-certified organic cotton, Supima cotton and Ecotec by Marchi & Fild.
- Seacell and Smartcel: These are produced using the lyocell process in a closed loop with no chemicals released as waste. The patented process of SeaCell allows that the positive properties of the seaweed are permanently preserved within the fibre, even after multiple washing cycles. Smartcel includes the essential trace element zinc providing anti-inflammatory capabilities.
- Refibra by Lenzing technology involves upcycling a substantial proportion of cotton scraps, e.g. from garment production, in addition to wood pulp, where the raw material is transformed to produce new Tencel lyocell fibre to make fabrics and garments.
- Bemberg by Asahi Kasei: A new generation Global Recycled Standard (GRS)-certified material made from cotton linters, with a biodegradability certification by Innovhub. It is a high-tech natural material with a special hand-feel and aesthetics.
- Roica by Asahi Kasei: Roica EF has a percentage of pre-consumer recycled content that is more than 50 per cent, and it is GRS certified. Roica CF is a premium stretch innovative yarn offering a real and durable 'new natural' active smart odour-neutralising solutions to every wearer.
A milestone for Tintex was achieved with the launch of Naturally Clean, an exceptional smart finishing process that is uniquely responsible. Naturally Clean enhances the natural beauty of cotton, takes a cost effective modern approach to eliminate aggressive treatments and optimises clean surfaces, vivid colours, providing an exquisitely smooth hand-feel.
Naturally Clean achieves this by using Novozymes technology's biological solutions. We use textile chemicals with the lowest possible environmental impact, without compromising performance, from Beyond Surface Technologies AG. Naturally Clean maintains the original characteristics for an extended period of time. All materials are certified by Oeko-Tex and soon will be certified by Bluesign, thus eliminating harmful substances.
How have your last two fiscals fared and what are the expectations set from the next two?
Tintex had a turnover of around €11 million in 2017, which translates into an increase of 20 per cent over 2015 figures. We expect to grow around 30 per cent till the end of 2019 due to a strategic approach to the market and also analysing the increase of gross added value of our products.
Which are your major markets for responsible jersey fabrics, smart fibres and Tintex finishing solutions? In which regions are the prospects growing?
Today labels look for overall high quality, meaning contemporary design, innovation and sustainability. We are the right partner for them to offer the above values, both through basic and seasonal products. In addition to that, we do not see ourselves just as suppliers but as partners. We create a direct conversation with brands in order to offer products that fit their needs within our collection. A clear example is Filipppa K, a leading Nordic fashion brand with a modern, smart approach to the responsible development of their lines. Some of their emblematic pieces, the flowy jersey dress spice and the flowy maxi skirt spice, were both mindfully made from sustainable lyocell by Tintex.
We now need to adapt and be ready for the next five to 10 years without neglecting any segment. We had pure fashion, pure sport and pure lingerie, and today we see a blend of the three. It is amazing to see this blend creating different materials together, diverse approaches to the market and different brands growing in such a short time. The textile industry is amazing because of the way it constantly changes.
What is the annual budget allocated towards R&D? How big is the R&D team?
Committed to excellence, we have invested over €26 million, with €7 million invested in the last three years alone, which drives material innovation, including high-tech machinery, responsible practices, ground-breaking dyeing and finishing technologies, as well as employee enrichment that supports research and experimentation to foster future breakthroughs. We are increasingly investing in advanced technologies and will continue to focus on innovation.
We started innovating with Tencel and are the leaders in developing Tencel fabrics since 2002. Later, we evolved to polylactide (PLA) and other sustainable fabrics. There is a cluster in Portugal with several segments, and at Tintex, our sustainability manager, Ana Silva, is responsible for the coordination of the sustainable cluster.
What are your long-term plans?
The aim of Tintex is to reach a totally traceable and transparent supply chain, without compromising on innovation, performances and catchy design. Our vision is to offer naturally advanced solutions that transform fashion systems. Our mission is to offer smart textile solutions that are revolutionary, transparent and respect responsible business and manufacturing processes.
A clear demonstration is the fact that Tintex Textiles is proud to activate industry-wide change by taking part in the Make Fashion Circular initiative by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. This initiative aims to collaborate and innovate towards a new textiles economy, based on the principles of a circular economy. The core partners of the foundation-Burberry, Gap Inc, H&M, HSBC, NIKE and Stella McCartney-will work with it to radically redesign the fashion industry. The initiative is supported by C&A and the Walmart Foundation. (HO)
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