Interview with Dr Claudio D Martelli

Face2Face
Dr Claudio D Martelli
Dr Claudio D Martelli
COO
Trigon Select
Trigon Select

Plan to add assessment of creative, merchandising process to audits

Based out of the United Kingdom and Switzerland, Trigon Select Ltd is a global company of top garment specialists offering a range of integrated services in technology, management, marketing and finance, meeting the needs of the international apparel sector for both manufacturers and buyers. The company closely cooperates with the International Apparel Federation (IAF) and the official German Fashion Association for evaluating, certifying and promoting apparel producers. Chief Operations Officer (COO) Claudio Martelli speaks about latest sourcing practices and factors impacting the global apparel supply chain.

What are the key elements behind the new joint Apparel Supplier Certification & Promotion Programme of Trigon Select and the IAF?

The joint Certification & Promotion Programme of Trigon Select and IAF, the global federation of the apparel industry, delivers the only worldwide certificate rating apparel manufacturing and management capabilities based on recognised industry standards.

Once they have achieved a successful certification, manufacturers can benefit from an effective multichannel promotion to find new customers in international markets. The profile of the companies is disseminated and promoted in the most effective way to selected target buyers in major export.

Therefore, this programme is very valuable to international fashion buyers, providing an accurate, unbiased and professional analysis of the manufacturing and management capabilities of selected apparel manufacturers who, on their part, will benefit from a unique and most effective instrument of promotion.   

What are the major audits conducted at Trigon Select? What is the size of the apparel manufacturers taking the audit?

We do not use the word audit that infers financial assessment. Instead, we use words like evaluation, verification and rating of the manufacturing and management capabilities of apparel producers, from arrival of materials to shipping of finished goods. The manufacturers can range from a small fashion house of 30-50 people to multi-plant companies with a large workforce.

Which geographies do apparel manufacturers and buyers (your clients) belong to?

There are no geographical limits but Trigon Select is currently busy in Eastern Europe, Russia, Turkey and Egypt in terms of apparel manufacturers and we are focusing on key buyers in the major European markets, including Germany, the United Kingdom, France, Spain, Italy and the Netherlands, and in Russia. We are keen to introduce our programmes in major manufacturing countries in Asia, including Bangladesh, India, China, Vietnam and Pakistan, where we have skilled and professional local partners.

What are the broad criteria covered under the audits at Trigon?

All aspects of the manufacturing process and its capabilities compared with industry standards, from arrival of materials to the dispatching of the finished goods. They cover verification of production facilities and processes, including all installed manufacturing capabilities, production performance, delivery performance, production planning and control, quality management, human resources, material sourcing and marketing.

What is the focus on circular economy, blockchain, and Industry 4.0 in the audits? Which geographies are leaders in the above three domains?

We currently take note of where a company is involved in circular economy, where is it using blockchain and the investment in digital transformation with Industry 4.0. We also assess its relevance and impact on the manufacturing facilities.
Since changes of these methods and technologies are very fast and their impact is becoming increasingly important in apparel manufacturing as well, we are keen to keep up the respective criteria in our evaluations with the latest developments in these areas by cooperating with some of Europe's leading information technology universities.
  • Circular economy: both China and Western Europe are leading in pushing this regenerative system.
  • Regions and countries leading in blockchain technology are North America, Europe, especially, the United Kingdom, Switzerland, Swede and Estonia, and China. 
  • The leading regions/countries in industry 4.0 are: North America (the US and Canada), Europe (Germany, Switzerland, UK, France, Netherlands, Ireland, Sweden etc.) and East Asia (Japan, S. Korea, Singapore, China etc.)

What do most apparel buyers look for in apparel suppliers?

Most apparel buyers look for
  • Timely delivery of products
  • Meeting quality and construction requirements at the agreed cost
  • Sustainability of the apparel products and the manufacturer in terms of social and environmental compliance 
  • Good communication, designated contacts within the supply company, who are always up to date on customers' orders
  • A trusted working relationship and, particularly for well-established buyers, a long-term partnership 
Published on: 17/12/2018

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.

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