Nargis Zaidi
Head – Apparels Centre of Excellence for Khadi
Our vision is to position khadi at the forefront of global fashion
Khadi India is the flagship brand of the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), functioning under the Ministry of Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises, Government of India. It serves as the retail and promotional platform for khadi, offering a wide array of hand-spun and handwoven products through physical stores and online channels. With a mission to make khadi more accessible, contemporary, and market-relevant, Khadi India plays a crucial role in supporting rural artisans while promoting sustainable and heritage-based fashion across domestic and global markets.
Speaking to Fibre2Fashion, Nargis Zaidi, Head - Apparels at the Centre of Excellence for Khadi (CoEK)—which strengthens Khadi India by enhancing the design, quality, and market appeal of its products through innovation, research, and modern branding—shares insights on raw material sourcing, sustainability, artisan support, and how Khadi India is evolving to connect with younger, fashion-conscious consumers.
What are the primary sources of raw materials for Khadi India’s textiles?
Khadi India’s textiles use three primary raw materials: cotton, silk, and wool.
How does Khadi India ensure the sustainability and ethical sourcing of materials like cotton, wool, and silk?
Khadi India ensures the sustainability and ethical sourcing of materials like cotton, wool, and silk by directly partnering with a network of khadi institutions across India. These institutions, deeply connected with local weavers and artisans, prioritise ethical practices at every stage of production. Rooted in sustainable methods, they work to preserve traditional craftsmanship while promoting eco-friendly practices, ensuring that each piece of khadi is both environmentally responsible and ethically produced.
Khadi is known for its hand-spun and handwoven nature. How do you ensure that the fabric remains innovative while staying true to its artisanal roots?
At Khadi India, we ensure the fabric remains innovative while staying true to its artisanal roots by embracing creativity at various stages of the design process. Innovation often begins at the grassroots level, where we introduce fresh motifs, explore unique colour combinations that may be unfamiliar to traditional khadi institutions, and incorporate natural dyes in regions where chemical dyes have become dominant. In other instances, innovation takes place during the later stages, particularly in silhouette development. Regardless of when or how it occurs, Khadi India remains deeply committed to fostering innovation across all levels, ensuring that khadi evolves while maintaining its timeless craftsmanship and artisanal heritage.
What are some of the biggest challenges in designing for Khadi India, considering the fabric’s unique texture and weaving process?
At Khadi India, we do not view the unique texture and weaving process of the fabric as challenges, but rather as the very beauty of khadi. The texture, which reflects the love and labour invested from the ground level, is an integral part of the fabric’s charm. Rather than seeing it as a hurdle, we embrace it as a key feature that adds visual appeal and a rich tactile experience to the final product. The beauty lies in capturing the essence of this artisanal craftsmanship and incorporating it into designs that celebrate khadi’s heritage while evolving with contemporary trends.
Are there any technological innovations or design techniques that you are incorporating to enhance khadi’s appeal in contemporary fashion?
At Khadi India, we are constantly exploring and collaborating with various craft traditions and practices from across India. This allows us to incorporate unique motifs, textures, and design techniques that enhance khadi’s appeal in contemporary fashion. By blending khadi with these diverse crafts, we create products that not only showcase the beauty of traditional craftsmanship but also resonate with those who value sustainability and design. Our focus is on creating innovative and meaningful pieces that speak to a modern audience while staying true to khadi’s rich heritage.
Are all Khadi India textiles 100 per cent hand-spun and handwoven, or are some processes mechanised?
Yes, all Khadi India textiles are hundred per cent hand-spun and handwoven, staying true to the standards and ideology that define khadi. Each piece is crafted ensuring the authenticity and artisanal quality that khadi is renowned for.
What initiatives does Khadi India have to support the livelihoods of artisans and their communities?
Khadi India has several initiatives in place to support the livelihoods and skills of artisans and their communities. We regularly conduct capacity-building workshops at various khadi institutions across India, ensuring that artisans are equipped with the latest techniques and have the opportunity to learn new skills. These efforts not only enhance their craftsmanship but also empower them to sustain and grow their livelihoods while preserving the tradition of hand-spinning and handweaving.
How is Khadi India engaging younger generations and making khadi more accessible and appealing to modern consumers?
Khadi India is actively working to engage younger generations and make khadi more accessible and appealing to modern consumers by building a fresh, new narrative. While khadi has traditionally been associated with older generations, we are focused on redefining its image through innovative design interventions. By experimenting with new ideas and contemporary silhouettes, we create collections that resonate with the younger audience. Additionally, we leverage the media to transform this narrative, showcasing our work in fashion shows and other platforms to highlight khadi’s relevance in today’s fashion scene. This approach helps us connect with a modern, fashion-conscious demographic while staying true to the fabric’s rich heritage.
How does Khadi India plan to grow and evolve over the next 5–10 years?
Over the next five years, Khadi India aims to redefine its narrative, seamlessly blending khadi into modern fashion while reinforcing its strong commitment to sustainability. Our vision is to position khadi at the forefront of global fashion, showcasing its versatility, innovation, and timeless appeal through contemporary styles that speak to today’s fashion-forward consumers. Additionally, we plan to explore collaborations with other Indian crafts, integrating them into khadi’s hand-spun, hand-woven fabric. By merging khadi with regional crafts, we seek to create unique, culturally diverse collections that celebrate India’s rich artisanal heritage.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 31/03/2025
DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.
