When we say 100 per cent plant-based, we really mean it
Jiwya, established by textile scientists, aims to reduce the toxic practices prevalent in the fashion industry. Realising the negative consequences the conventional practices have on the environment and communities, the founders developed a cross-cutting model that focuses on eco-friendliness across the value chain. Speaking to Fibre2Fashion, Co-founder Aishwarya Lahariya explains Jiwya’s belief in a sustainable fashion system built on the principle of regeneration that respects culture and the Earth, creating designs that celebrate individuality.
What are the biggest challenges the fashion industry faces in transitioning to more ethical and sustainable practices?
There are a few: internal resistance to change, promoting fast fashion and cheaper quality clothing to sell more, promoting consumerism for unprecedented production, and then relying on unpaid and child labour in the global south for cheaper production. It is a mix of moral and financial challenges. I hope, before it is too late, the fashion industry wakes up to understand that their practices are affecting human health and polluting this planet. Until then, Jiwya will continue to spread awareness about buying better.
How can the fashion industry better integrate and uplift traditional artisans in an increasingly mechanised world?
The fashion industry has a lot to learn from artisans and their holistic way of working. While we definitely do need machines, certain traditions can be balanced with their way of being. The simplest is not mimicking the generational work of artisans into low quality copies; I find this to be disrespectful to the art and its cultural value. One can argue that it is difficult, if not impossible, to clothe 8.1 billion people without the use of machines. That is a fair point, but we also do not need to produce 100-150 billion garments each year, which is what the fashion industry produces. Of these, 92 million tonnes end up in landfills. We need high quality, built to last and meaningful pieces. This is something we can learn from artisanal clusters as their very way of being is focused on preserving these techniques.
What are the potential benefits and limitations of plant-based materials in fashion compared to conventional or synthetic fabrics?
Assuming that no synthetic dyes or finishes were used on the plant fibres, the safest garments you will put against your skin are the ones that have not released harmful chemicals into your water while they were being made. Secondly, plant-materials can last a lifetime, and when discarded, they can degrade within weeks, nourishing the soil rather than polluting it.
In terms of limitations, certain colours and the plasticky shine are currently not possible to mimic in plant-based materials, but there are researchers constantly working on it.
What inspired you to start Jiwya, and how does the brand’s name reflect its core mission and values?
As a textile scientist, I have been privy to the research and manufacturing aspects of this industry for more than a decade. On an individual level, I have tried to clean up to the best of my ability—replacing harmful dyes and toxic finishing chemicals with planet-friendly alternatives, promoting safe working conditions for first-line workers, and so forth—but it never felt enough. More importantly, the industry’s resistance to change was really frustrating. My Co-founder, Adhiraj Shinde, shared the same experience. This brought us together to lead by example, and create better fashion, in terms of materials, practices and end-products. Our goal was to create a brand that does not harm a soul on this earth, whether people, animals or the planet.
The very ethos of caring for every soul led us to call our offering Jiwya. The sanskrit word ‘jeev’ which means life, soul and spirit is annotated to Jiwya, reflecting our deep respect and love for every life, soul and spirit in this world that we all share and call home.
What challenges did you face while setting up a 100 per cent plant-based fashion supply chain, and how did you overcome them?
When we say 100 per cent plant-based, we really mean it. That means, at every step, we had to rethink and restructure the systems of the typical textile and fashion supply chain. For instance, what comes to your mind when you think of a garment tag? In all likelihood, it is plastic tags that display the product information, hanging on them. At Jiwya, even that tag is made of recycled paper, with the label printed in certified biodegradable ink. We have taken our commitment to the nano level, to ensure the only materials used in our product as well as our processing are regenerative in nature. We completely eschew plastics or animal-derived materials.
Naturally, when one goes against the status quo, there are challenges—from locating farmers who would not use pesticides to grow our plant-fibres to sourcing local and ethical raw materials for plant-dyes, to securing packaging vendors who would take a risk with using different materials for us, to persuading artisans to create their art in the materials and practices we were suggesting, and many more. To give you a slightly technical example, plant dyes need a mordant (a kind of pre-treatment) to make the fibre more receptive to the plant dye molecule. In most conventional practices, this mordant is a metal, which is polluting. As scientists, we spent a great deal of time sourcing and experimenting with plant-based mordants. The toughest part was seemingly the most innocuous—to source a stitching thread that is not mixed with polyester! In fact, this simple element took us months to source.
Our passion, patience and persistence were our greatest allies! We created Jiwya to make a difference, an impact, and a way forward. That passion keeps us motivated to do better and to keep at it, despite the odds. We think that when you are on the right path, it might take you time, but you will find believers. That is how we found the risk takers who are now part of our mission.
What makes Jiwya’s approach to sustainability unique compared to other sustainable fashion brands?
There are other brands that are practicing true sustainability, and I hope they do keep at it. Many of these sustainable fashion brands have picked individual challenges, whether being zero-waste, using better fibres, or only using fair labour. All of these are incredible approaches that are much needed to transform the industry. At Jiwya, our unique position as scientists gives us the advantage of understanding the depths of this field and what is wrong at its core. That informs our approach of making it better from within. We started thinking from materials, then progressed to colours, finishes and so forth, there was no stopping. We spared no efforts in cleaning up the materials, chemicals, processes and the manufacturing. This multi-faceted approach makes us unique. That is why we call ourselves a soil-to-soil ecosystem. Jiwya is vertically integrated and minutely conscious at each step; even after the product has exhausted its lifecycle with the customer, our Re:Jiwya programme encourages the customer to send the product to us so that we can responsibly compost it.
Could you elaborate on the bio-circular fashion lifecycle your brand follows? How does it minimise environmental impact?
In theory, a circular lifecycle involves taking the raw material once and recycling it endlessly. This approach has limitations when it comes to application. Unfortunately, only one per cent of recyclable materials are actually recycled. That is why Jiwya is rooted in soil, because the soil is where it all begins and should end. The soil can give us resources forever, if we nourish it well. Every material we use comes from the soil and, after a lifetime of usage, has the humility to return to the soil naturally, nourishing it in the process. This is the bio-circular fashion lifecycle. Jiwya has a significantly low environmental impact and is decarbonising fashion by avoiding certain practices and materials that lead to carbon emissions and pollution.
The fashion industry today is filled with synthetic materials derived from fossil fuels (petrochemical) and animal-derived sources. These are not only made with unethical labour but also contribute 8-10 per cent of global carbon emissions, ultimately propelling the planet towards climate change. Jiwya, on the other hand, ensures an extremely low carbon footprint, zero per cent polluting materials and the cleanest fashion. The measures we take include:
- No animal derivatives, no plastics and no synthetic chemicals. Every raw material, colour, embellishment. packaging and fixture is purely plant-based, without felling trees.
- Each piece is designed to last for a lifetime as an heirloom, involving at least two art forms from India.
- Each piece is bespoke, slow fashion and proudly handmade.
- The production is zero-waste, zero-discharge. Every scrap is repurposed, every ounce of dye-water used nourishes our garden soil.
- We also run a Re:Jiwya programme to support a lifetime of repairs, restyling and end-of-life collection of our products, closing the bio-loop. This is a first-of-its-kind EPR (Extended Producer Responsibility) programme.
How do you identify and collaborate with artisans across India, and what steps do you take to ensure their traditional crafts are preserved?
This was one of the toughest and most exciting parts of building Jiwya. Adhiraj and I travelled 19,000 kilometres across India, sourcing and meeting artisans and developing a connection with them directly, without the involvement of any middlemen. Our basic criterion for selection is their drive to preserve their art forms. We are proudly working with a growing family of artisans across India, many of whom are Padma Shri awardees, National awardees and recognised with several honours. They regard our vision of showcasing their art on newer materials as a means of preserving their artisanal heritage.
The essence of India lies in the stories of the land—the stories filled with elements of nature and human embodiment. At Jiwya, our designs are made with a global appeal to promote this Indian essence on the world stage. At the same time, the preservation of our arts through the most native motifs ensures the Indian essence is captured, enhanced and promoted.
Rivayat celebrates the timeless cycle of renewal and reawakening. What inspired this collection, and how did you decide on its unique elements?
The underlying ethos of each design is to narrate the tales of the land in plant-based fibres. No two stories are the same, but they all invoke a memory, an emotion or a charm. That is what this collection does. It narrates stories of plant-based compassion for the earth, in her glory for each body to express. The inspirations came from the many stories of India that I captured while travelling across the country, from India’s vast geography and varied elements as well as the human essence and generational stories it preserves.
I learnt designing for Jiwya; being a scientist, functionality comes first to me. Every design at Jiwya blends both function and aesthetics. The designs follow a scientific foundation with a global approach, an attempt at transcending Indian generational arts through a sustainable lens for the world. Jiwya creates fashion that celebrates the body, skin, textures and shapes—of the wearer and the fabric. The idea is to create clothing that holds a wearer’s body in the warm embrace of heritage arts, while giving every curve and node the attention it deserves.
Rivayat features over 100 indigenous art forms. Can you highlight a few specific crafts showcased in this collection and their significance?
It is very difficult to choose a few from 100. So, I will talk about the ones that intrigue me the most. I have used rare and authentic muslin that is unbleached to reduce any wasteful water usage, as well as certain weaves such as Mashru and Kota Doria that are only made in silk—but with our persuasion and assurance, these were made in dry farm cotton and khadi. Ahir hand-embroidery, passed on to only women in the family, is very fascinating with its intricacies. We hand-dyed yarns ourselves for this embroidery, since the yarn quality affects the resultant embroidery. Patua hand-painting was used in rustic tapestries. What makes this art form unique is that it is practiced by Muslim communities but used to paint stories of Hindu mythologies! The art forms in Jiwya do not just bring all of India under one roof, but also loudly and proudly speak of unifying people to preserve our generational heritage.
Your designs use a palette inspired by nature. How do these colours and textures enhance the stories Jiwya aims to tell?
I strongly believe the planet has already given us everything we need; once used well, it has the power to be one with our bodies. When you wear a Jiwya piece, you feel the calming softness of the plant fibres, the subtle hues of the earth, and the lightness of owning something so pure and filled with generational wisdom.
Plant-fibres are actually designed by nature to blend with human bodies. The infusion of heritage arts, made with human efforts and generational techniques, enhances the value of these materials. Then, it is the meticulous process of designing to celebrate every texture of every fabric such that the fabric translates into designs that celebrate the diversity of human bodies.
How has Jiwya gained recognition in global markets, and what strategies have helped you meet stringent sustainability standards worldwide?
Globally, there is a growing awareness about how our everyday choices can impact our bodies and the planet. Our designs speak for themselves: they enhance native Indian arts in a global design, for the world to wear and appreciate. But our ethos shines brighter. It connects with the audience who want to buy mindful, buy better and choose investment pieces that are built to last unlike fast fashion that is designed to fail. Our transparency and solid scientific approach speak for themselves. Our commitment to strict sustainability standards made it very easy for us to onboard third-party directories and listings that impartially rated us and promoted us globally. As of today, Jiwya is present in eight countries. Our strategy has been simple: we stay true to our 100 per cent plant-based, zero-waste and authentic artisanal roots with a transparent and fair wage system.
What does the future hold for Jiwya in 2025 and beyond? Are there any specific collaborations or innovations you are excited about?
We are really excited for 2025! We have some exciting global collaborations coming up, potentially a few exhibits in Europe that I am most excited about. As for Jiwya, the idea is to solidify our supply chain, actively engage our artisans with better safety and health practices, and educate them on preservation further.
Another thing I am really looking forward to is launching some lesser used and rare plant-fibres in the upcoming collections! I am really working hard on those designs. Jiwya strives to be a category creator in plant-based fashion, to work on spreading awareness that our clothes should not be a source of pollution to our bodies and the planet we live in. While doing all this, creating beautiful fashion that is the safest, cleanest and an heirloom piece for somebody to own.
How can fashion play a role in preserving cultural heritage and traditional crafts in a globalised world?
Before fast fashion and endless consumerism became a way of life, fashion was used to express our personalities. Fashion holds the power to make a statement and convey ideas. When working-class women initiated the women’s rights movement, pants became a symbol of resistance to the colonial mindset that women could only wear dresses and skirts. Even today, fashion holds the power to challenge patriarchal notions and transcend bodily expressions. With so much power, fashion simply needs to use traditional arts and cultural practices a little more; the preservation will follow!
Lastly, with the rise of slow and personalised fashion, how do you see customisation influencing the future of the fashion industry?
Fast fashion killed our sense of style and replaced it with fleeting, use and throw trends. With a conscious and sustainable mindset, people are slowly gaining their individual aesthetic. A personal sense of style not only allows an individual to connect better with what feels good to them but also helps them forge stronger bonds with themselves. If you think about the piece of clothing you dearly love, you will realise the many hours you have spent to personalise it or pick it after meticulous search, so that you treasure it for years! Customisation will lead to a much-needed change: a reduction in consumerism. It can change the way we buy, wear and discard pieces. It can lead to bringing back a sense of personal style and individuality.