Our material is both scalable and high-performing
In 2013, artists Philip Ross and Sophia Wang formed MycoWorks, a biotechnology company dedicated to growing the future of materials. MycoWorks’ patented Fine Mycelium platform engineers mycelium as it grows, crafting bio-materials of unparalleled beauty, strength, durability, and hand-feel. Thirty years of savoir-faire have led to Reishi—a new category of materials that offers designers an unprecedented level of control over a natural material. Reishi is ushering in a new era of sustainable design for next-generation artists. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Senior Vice President Sales & Business Development Fred Martel discusses how MycoWorks is revolutionising biomaterials with Fine Mycelium technology, the challenges of commercialisation, and the future of sustainable design.
MycoWorks’ Fine Mycelium technology has set a new standard in biomaterials. How does it differentiate from other alternative leather solutions in terms of performance and sustainability?
MycoWorks stands out from its competitors as a new category of material, by offering the highest quality biomaterial on the market. We are literally growing our material Reishi using our patented technology Fine Mycelium. This is our main difference from other alternatives. We uphold rigorous standards that surpass the typical benchmarks in the furniture industry. Our material is both scalable and high-performing, and we have recently announced new performance data where Reishi is performing better than other traditional materials on the market. Reishi is a sustainable option that delivers genuine impact, thanks to its exceptional blend of natural quality, low carbon footprint, and sign of biodegradability as a zero-plastic material.
Could you share insights into the challenges faced during the commercialisation of Reishi, and how MycoWorks overcame them?
Companies in the biomaterial space tend to face challenges with wider acceptance and adoption, by both the industry and consumers, which leads to greater issues of financing and scaling the business. We have created a unique and refined material at scale, that in connection with strategic partnerships like Hermes, Ligne Roset, and Cadillac to name a few, has gained validity and success in the design industry. This has allowed us to overcome the traditional challenges for biomaterial companies, and we will continue to trailblaze the path forward to a more sustainable industry.
Given the growing concerns around traditional leather production, how does MycoWorks ensure that its materials remain not only sustainable but also scalable for mass adoption?
MycoWorks’ technology, Fine Mycelium, has created a new category of biomaterials like Reishi, our proprietary mycelium biomaterial. Reishi does not rely on any of the chemicals traditional leather production does. We have worked with our expert leather tanners in Igualada, Spain to create a new technology, Rei-Tanning. The exclusive formula enhances the performance and consistency of Reishi sheets, making it possible to produce luxury goods with complex construction techniques, including 'stitch-and-turn' and edge applications. During this specialised nurturing process, Reishi sheets undergo treatment to achieve key properties such as fullness, softness, durability, and resistance to water and other elements. The Rei-Tanning process represents the perfect blend of innovation and traditional expertise. With Reishi now available at scale, specific retanning guidelines are provided under license for use by client facilities. The Rei-Tanning process is unlocking new opportunities within the luxury sector, addressing challenges that have historically made such advancements difficult for biomaterials.
In 2023, we made major strides in scalability, opening the first-of-its kind production facility in Union, South Carolina. Early last year, we hit the milestone of harvesting the first 1,000 sheets of Fine Mycelium and first commercial shipments. This year, we announced that Reishi is now available through our e-commerce website. Each year we continue to grow in scale, and we look forward to further growth from these foundational milestones.
How does MycoWorks manage the end-of-life cycle of its materials? Are they biodegradable or recyclable?
Reishi is 100 per cent traceable at every step of our process. A QR based monitoring allows for visibility from growth through to atelier production. Reishi’s carbon footprint is as low as 2.76 kg CO2-eq per m2. This number validates its promise of true impact, thanks to its unique combination of natural mycelium quality, low carbon footprint and biodegradability. MycoWorks’ biomaterial shows signs of biodegradability, according to a third part study.
Fine Mycelium is plastic free. For scratching and waterproofing, clients can optionally choose a low-or-no aniline finish. Our sustainability metrics are available on our website. Concerning the end-of-life cycle, we work closely with our clients who are responsible for the end-of-life of their own collections.
Luxury brands have shown great interest in biomaterials. What has been the response from mainstream fashion and automotive industries, and do you see MycoWorks expanding beyond luxury?
We are proud to have been recognised by the luxury industry for our biomaterials’ aesthetic and performance, collaborating with esteemed partners like Hermes and Ligne Roset. Last year, we partnered with General Motors to incorporate our Fine Mycelium technology into their SOLLEI Cadillac, entering the automotive market. As MycoWorks advances the development of new biomaterials cultivated from mycelium using our patented Fine Mycelium technology, we will soon introduce another Fine Mycelium material designed for broader and more commercial applications.
How does MycoWorks handle partnerships with established brands while maintaining control over its unique technology and innovation?
We have entered trustworthy and prudent partnerships with brands using our material. Our ownership of the technology, more than 80 patents, is maintained as we create the material that has then been used in our partners’ projects such as purses, furniture, clothing, and a car.
What advancements can we expect in Fine Mycelium technology in the next few years? Are there any upcoming breakthroughs in material performance or application?
MycoWorks is proud to have announced our latest performance data of our flagship biomaterial Reishi, created using our Fine Mycelium technology. Through third-party testing, Reishi has set new benchmarks across five key qualitative evaluation areas, surpassing most indicators. These tests assess the material’s durability, resistance, and overall performance. Our results are as follows:
- Bally Flex Resistance (flexibility, creasing): 10,000 cycles minimum
- Martindale Abrasion Resistance: 6,400 cycles minimum
- Colourfastness (dye transfer): Reishi has passed the 150-cycle benchmark
- Aging Resistance Test: Successful
- Finish Adhesion: Reishi achieved 0.4N/mm
These new results highlight Reishi's exceptional durability and performance standards. We will continue innovating and testing to reach industry breakthroughs.
Does MycoWorks plan to enter the consumer market directly, or will it continue supplying material to brands?
MycoWorks announced recently that our Reishi material is now available online for purchase. However, as a biotech company specialising in biomaterials grown from mycelium, our primary goal remains to supply these materials to a broader range of brands. Our business model remains B2B.
With the increasing regulations around sustainable materials, how does MycoWorks navigate compliance challenges across different markets?
Due to MycoWorks’ materials inherent sustainable nature, new sustainable regulations do not change any aspect of our production as our standards surpass those of current and proposed regulations.
What are the biggest hurdles in building a supply chain for mycelium-based materials, and how is MycoWorks addressing them?
Building a supply chain for mycelium-based materials presents several challenges, including sourcing sustainable raw materials consistently, scaling production to meet demand, and ensuring quality control throughout the process. MycoWorks has addressed these hurdles by leveraging our patented Fine Mycelium technology, which enables precise control over the material's growth and consistency in our proprietary trays. This system also allows us to make custom changes to our material for specific partnership uses under precise control over the thickness, texture, and size of the material.
How do you see the role of biomaterials evolving in the fashion and luxury industries, and what challenges need to be overcome for mass adoption?
As consumer demand for eco-friendly products grows, biomaterials have the opportunity to contribute greatly towards sustainable production, paving the way for a creativity inspired by sustainability. Reishi addresses the challenge of balancing luxury with sustainability, offering a solution that inspires designers and introduces new aesthetic codes for fashion and luxury consumers. With Reishi, we are continuously pushing the boundary of what is possible, and conquering challenges in quality and durability has significantly moved the needle. We are confident that with our e-commerce launch and upcoming projects, we will be able to introduce Reishi to more consumers and have wider adoptions of our biomaterial.
With increasing regulatory pressure on sustainability, how are material innovators working to ensure compliance while maintaining performance and scalability?
By being an eco-friendly material, MycoWorks is inherently sustainable and compliant. Fine Mycelium uses mycelium, the root system of fungi/mushrooms, which require minimal resources to grow. The production process has a low carbon footprint, utilises minimal water, and generates little waste compared to traditional materials like leather. Additionally, Reishi is biodegradable, further reducing its environmental impact. Our patented Fine Mycelium technology and proprietary tray system for production ensures a high-quality, scalable material ready for brands to adopt.
What advancements in biomaterial technology do you think will define the next decade, and how close are we to fully replacing animal leather at scale?
In the next decade, advancements in biomaterial technology are likely to include more refined and scalable production methods, enhanced material properties, and broader adoption across various industries. We are likely to see improved performance, durability, texture, and customisation options, which will make them even more competitive with traditional materials like animal leather. MycoWorks’ biomaterials, however, are a new category of material—one that is not intended to replace leather, but to offer a unique alternative with its own strengths and qualities. While leather remains a remarkable material with a lower environmental impact compared to bioplastics, our goal is not to replace or imitate leather but to introduce an additional material that resonates with the values of our time—enriching fashion and luxury with new aesthetic codes. By inviting nature into the creative process, we aim to inspire a dialogue between diverse materials. As Reishi continues to inspire the future of design, we are excited to see how this new category evolves.
What are the key factors that determine whether a sustainable material can gain widespread acceptance among both brands and consumers?
The key factor that determines whether a sustainable material can gain widespread acceptance is, without a doubt, quality. Quality. Quality. Quality! There are no shortcuts—quality and sustainability must go hand in hand. Neither brands nor end consumers are willing to compromise on quality for the sake of sustainability alone. For a sustainable material to succeed, it must match or exceed the performance, aesthetics, and durability of conventional materials. This means achieving high standards in texture, strength, and longevity, while also delivering a compelling story of responsible sourcing and environmental impact. Consistency in these qualities builds trust and credibility among brands and consumers alike. Additionally, scalability plays a crucial role. Innovations like our Rei Tanning process for Reishi demonstrate that it is possible to produce sustainable materials at scale without compromising on quality. This ability to blend performance with sustainability is what will drive broader acceptance and adoption in the market.
Through our consumer-facing collaborations in the fashion, interior design, and automotive industries, we are happy to have demonstrated not only that biomaterials can be used by brands, at scale but that it can be a preferred material due to these proof points.
How do biomaterial companies balance sustainability with durability and aesthetics to meet the high standards of industries like fashion, automotive, and furniture?
Reishi and Fine Mycelium technology meet the high standards of these industries, making the potential of design boundless. Fashion and design objects provided an amazing platform for MycoWorks to showcase Reishi's capabilities and aesthetics. Since then, we have demonstrated the versatility of Reishi and Fine Mycelium technology in fields such as interior design, architecture, lighting, and automotive design, with plans to explore even further in the near future. Later this year, we will reveal our interior design collaboration with Ligne Roset, a renowned luxury furniture designer, and we are continually exploring new ways Reishi can be utilised in design.
