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Interview with Zennure Danisman

Industry Speak
Zennure Danisman
Zennure Danisman
Marketing and Washing Manager
Orta Anadolu
Orta Anadolu

The textile industry is considered to be a huge pollutant, and denim perhaps among the most. How do you try and keep the carbon footprint as low as possible?

At Orta, sustainability is 'business as usual'. Our aim is to create a more robust denim ecosystem where art (design) meets technology meets ethics for infinite possibilities of denim. Last year, we celebrated our 65th anniversary with a handprint mission: while our footprint is what we take from the planet, when we consume, our handprint is what we give the planet back when we create change for better. We are working towards creating a future where denim is designed, produced, consumed and disposed of in radically different ways, and our handprint reflects our present, and embraces our sustainable future.

We have a three-pillar sustainability model: product, process and purpose. Product is the area where we manage our fibres and innovative processes. In process, we carefully examine energy, chemicals, emissions, water, waste and stakeholder engagement at the organisational level. And purpose is where we define our social missions and labour.

In this scope, we developed Indigo Flow, a sustainable dyeing process in which up to 70 per cent water is saved. Indigo Flow has been our standard dyeing process since 2016 and between 2016 and 2018, we saved 20 million litres of water with this technology.

Denim in its original form-the hard-working fabric-has undergone many blends making it softer and more fashion oriented. How do you view this change?

Denim transforms according to trends and new technologies. We discovered that a new soft-wear fit is being demanded. And this fit has rightly become a gender- inclusive body-positive issue. In this scope, with our Symphony concept, we composed luxury together with performance and softness. Our Symphony Concept fabrics are soft due to our Alchemy Finish and due to usage of Tencel Lyocell, Tencel xRefibra. 

What is the number of swatches that your library boasts of?

We are a 65-year-old company and we have a rich archive. We are weaving our stories through our own special denim history archive by echoing the past, present and future of denim. We reimagined the vintage with today's environmental and human respective processes and the most authentic looks.

Every season, for each collection, we develop approximately 100 new fabrics inspired by our archive together with new technologies and nature.

What is the annual production capacity at Orta?

Today, Orta operates in Turkey with a production capacity of 60 million metres of denim and with more than 1,500 employees, creating a platform for leading manufacturers to step up and reclaim a denim industry where more aesthetics leads to more ethics.

What amount of denim fabric produced by you is sustainable?

Around 80 per cent of the fibres used in SS21 Denimimicry collection have at least one sustainable characteristic; organic, recycled, biodegradable, regenerated, biobased or recyclable. By using especially organic and recycled fibres instead of virgin and conventional materials, we are saving significant amounts of chemicals, energy and water that are specifically consumed in the fibre production stage.

Since A/W 2019-20 collection, the environmental impacts of all Orta fabrics are assessed with LCA methodology and their results are shared via QR codes on product hangtags. The assessment is done for the Denimimicry collection as well. 

What new denim technologies and innovations do you plan to implement?

Denim with alternative fibres and new technologies at the washing steps are the recent advances in the denim industry. 

For SS21, we expanded our collection with eco-functional fabrics with new technologies. The unique Gen H collection has a more rustic approach to authenticity, with a single material that celebrates sustainability and minimalism. Hemp is naturally anti-bacterial, anti-microbial, super soft, biodegradable and breathable. It is the closest we will get to a natural nirvana in denim.

In addition to Gen H, we launched CBDenim, which is infused with CBD oil for blissful and soothing skin wellness. CBDenim mixes this wellness elixir with eco-soft fibres and gentle stretch for amazing body wellness with every step.

The eco-modern generation is marching for revolution and they want to wear denim that tells a new story. Join us to envision how innovations in the field of biotechnology can transform denim and production processes behind it. We believe that scarcity should be replaced with abundance that biology will create by recreating and reshaping the nature. We are taking nature's lead and exploring the symbiosis between science and design that promises to inspire a wider variety of visionary processes and systems than any individual discipline could develop alone.
Published on: 30/12/2019

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.

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