Chelsea Franklin
Head of Advanced Concept Design Pangaia
Pangaia is driving the future of sustainable fashion through material innovation
Founded in 2019, Pangaia is a B Corp-certified materials science company creating responsible, design-led wardrobe essentials from bio-based, recycled, and regenerative materials—bridging innovation, sustainability, and style to benefit both people and the planet.
Fibre2Fashion spoke with Chelsea Franklin, Head of Advanced Concept Design, to explore how the company is pioneering next-generation materials and redefining sustainable fashion through biotechnology, collaboration, and design innovation.
How does Pangaia’s Advanced Concepts team identify and develop breakthrough materials and technologies for sustainable fashion?
We work closely with researchers, scientists, and makers to translate promising ideas into tangible materials. It is a deeply collaborative and iterative process that values curiosity and humility.
We know we don’t have all the answers, but we focus on asking the right questions and creating conditions where meaningful breakthroughs can emerge.
Can you share recent innovations from your lab that have advanced Pangaia’s commitment to bio-based or recycled materials?
Our AeoniQ capsule, created in partnership with HeiQ, marks a significant milestone. It is made entirely from AeoniQ—the world’s first climate-positive, biodegradable cellulosic filament yarn.
AeoniQ serves as an alternative to both animal-derived silk and fossil-fuel-based synthetics, combining the lustre and smoothness of silk with the engineered durability of synthetics.
Earlier this year, we also introduced PLNT nylon, derived from Evo by Fulgar, a renewable, bio-based material that offers a lower-impact substitute for conventional polyamide.
How does AeoniQ achieve the performance of traditional synthetics like polyester and nylon while remaining fully biodegradable and climate-positive?
AeoniQ uses renewable cellulose feedstocks engineered as filaments that mimic the strength and durability of synthetics.
It offers breathability, biodegradability, and recyclability while saving up to 3.2 tonnes of CO₂ per tonne produced.
What design and material strategies were used to create the AeoniQ capsule’s versatile, minimalist pieces?
We took a minimalist approach—clean lines, fluid yet structured silhouettes, and tonal detailing that allow the material to shine. Every element was chosen to reduce impact and celebrate simplicity. Functionality and comfort were prioritised, ensuring each piece transitions effortlessly from travel to everyday wear.
How do you balance performance, aesthetics, and sustainability when developing new fabric concepts?
Innovation only succeeds when all three coexist. We start with performance requirements and explore how nature-based solutions and responsible materials can meet or exceed them.
Aesthetics are essential because materials must inspire emotional connection—sustainability alone isn’t enough. Much of our work involves refinement: testing, adapting, and perfecting prototypes until the experience of wearing the garment feels right. Sustainability should enhance desirability, not compete with it.
What testing or validation processes ensure that new materials meet both environmental and commercial standards?
We combine performance testing with sustainability assessments. This includes evaluating durability, comfort, colourfastness, pilling, biodegradability, recyclability, and microfibre shedding.
Equally important is lifecycle assessment—ensuring our innovations deliver real impact in use, care, and end-of-life stages, not just in theory.
What are the key barriers to innovation in sustainable textiles, and how can the industry overcome them?
The main barriers are scale, infrastructure, and mindset. Breakthroughs require time, investment, and long-term thinking.
We move faster when we prioritise progress over purity, collaboration over competition, and learning over isolation. True innovation is about continuous improvement and transparency, not instant perfection.
What role does biotechnology play in your material innovation pipeline?
Biotechnology is foundational to the future of responsible materials. It allows us to build from nature’s chemistry instead of extracting from finite resources and enables precise engineering of performance.
From bio-derived polymers and fermentation-based inputs to enzymatic recycling, biotechnology moves us closer to regenerative value chains.
How does Pangaia collaborate with research institutions or startups to scale sustainable innovations?
We see ourselves as bridge builders. Many breakthrough technologies start in academic labs or early-stage startups without clear commercialisation pathways.
We partner early, co-develop solutions, and guide innovations through scale-up, testing, and product integration.
Our role extends beyond identifying technology—we help transform potential into product, science into system.
What upcoming material technologies or trends excite you most for the future of sustainable apparel?
The concept of ‘wearable technology’ is being reimagined. For years, it referred mainly to hardware—watches, glasses, and other devices.
Today, material science is redefining the term. We are now seeing textiles that actively support human performance and wellbeing while also contributing to planetary health.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 13/11/2025
DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.
