Debin Mao
Founder & CEO Qingdao Amino Materials Technology Co. Ltd.
We are the first company in the world to recycle polyester-elastane blends
Qingdao Amino Material Technology Co., Ltd., established in 2020, focuses on the research and development and industrial application of innovative technologies for the recycling of waste textiles, especially the separation and recycling of polyester and polyester blended fabrics. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Qingdao Amino’s Founder & CEO Debin Mao discusses the Chinese market and his company’s textile waste recycling technology and its future.
What are some of the biggest challenges facing the textile industry in China, and how is the industry working to overcome them?
Rising labour costs, competition from other countries, intellectual property rights protection, trade tensions, and digitalisation are some of the biggest challenges facing China’s textile industry today. To overcome these challenges, the industry is investing in automation, focusing on higher-value products, strengthening IPR enforcement, diversifying export markets, and embracing digital transformation.
How has the role of technology in the textile industry in China evolved over the past decade, and what impact has this had on the industry?
Over the past decade, technology has played a significant role in China’s textile industry in enhancing automation, improving production efficiency, and enabling the adoption of sustainable practices. This has helped the industry to cope with rising labour costs, meet stricter environmental regulations, and stay competitive in the global market. Additionally, digitalisation has facilitated better engagement with customers through e-commerce and improved supply chain management.
How do cultural and social factors in China influence the production and consumption of textiles, and how is the industry adapting to these factors?
Cultural and social factors in China, such as traditional crafts, rising disposable income, and environmental awareness, influence textile production and consumption. The industry is adapting to these changes by preserving heritage techniques, catering to evolving consumer preferences, and adopting sustainable and eco-friendly practices to meet the growing demand for environmentally responsible products.
How has the global demand for sustainable and ethically-produced textiles impacted the textile industry in China?
The global demand for sustainable and ethically-produced textiles has led the Chinese textile industry to adopt cleaner production methods, invest in eco-friendly materials, and improve labour conditions. This shift helps the industry meet international standards, cater to changing consumer preferences, and maintain competitiveness in the global market.
What innovations or trends in the textile industry are currently emerging in China, and how do these compare to developments in other parts of the world?
Current innovations and trends in China’s textile industry include advanced automation, smart textiles, sustainable materials, and digitalisation. These developments align with global trends, as manufacturers worldwide are focusing on improving efficiency, reducing environmental impact, and embracing digital technologies to stay competitive and cater to evolving consumer preferences.
What motivated you to start a company focused on textile waste recycling?
Our motivation stemmed from our passion as scientists who love technology and sustainability. We saw an opportunity to address the environmental challenges posed by textile waste and contribute to a more sustainable future, while utilising our expertise in innovative technologies to make a positive impact.
How does your technology compare to other existing textile recycling technologies?
Compared to other recycling technologies, our technology has a wider range, not only in recycling high-purity polyester but also polyester blended fabrics, such as polyester elastane or polyester cotton, and so on. Additionally, our processing conditions are milder, with reactions occurring below 100 ℃, resulting in lower costs.
Could you walk us through the process of how your technology separates polyester fibres from blended fibres?
First, the textiles are cleaned to remove dyes and additives, and then they are separated. The polyester is degraded into monomers and flows out with the solution. The elastane is not damaged and remains separated in solid form. After separation, the polyester monomers are re-polymerised into polyester, while the elastane fabric is dissolved to form a uniform solution for spinning.
Can you tell us more about the ‘Relastane’ polyester recycling system developed by Qingdao Amino Material Technology Co., Ltd.?
We are the first company in the world to recycle polyester-elastane blends, including polyester and other blends. In addition, our low-temperature and water-free process can protect the fabric well and save a lot of cost.
How do you ensure the quality of the recycled polyester fibres produced through your system?
First, our process is a very mild, so damage and degradation of original materials is controlled to minimum as compared to other chemical recycling technologies. Second, polyester monomers (dimethyl terephthalate or DMT) and elastane that are recycled from our process have been well characterised and analysed by ourselves as well as by third parties, and have been found to meet the quality requirement of brands.
What are the biggest challenges you face in terms of scaling up your recycling operations?
Managing high capital and operational costs, adhering to evolving regulations, ensuring product quality and performance, and raising consumer awareness and demand for recycled fibres are some of the challenges.
How has been the response to your technology in the textile industry so far?
Quite a number of international major brands have been contacting and following us in the past months. They are very excited to learn that Amino has made the achievement to recycle polyester based blend materials, which is definitely a technological break-through. Currently, we are in contact with around 20 brands/textile stakeholders and are in discussion with several of them for a pilot agreement.
Are there any new developments or innovations in the pipeline for Qingdao Amino Materials Technology Co., Ltd.?
Yes, our technology can not only recycle polyester and elastane blended fabrics but also other polyester blends. Our next research and development innovation is the separation and recycling of polyester and cotton. This will bring a ten-fold increase in market size.
Are you looking at any partnerships or collaborations to further advance textile waste recycling?
Of course, we have been continuously looking for partners. In addition to collaborating with brands, we are actively working with upstream and downstream partners, including post-consumer recycling companies.
How do you envision the future of textile waste recycling and its impact on the environment?
We envision a future where textile-to-textile recycling becomes the norm, significantly reducing waste sent to landfills and incineration. This shift would lead to a circular economy in the textile industry, promoting sustainability, conserving resources, and minimising the environmental impact of textile production and consumption.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 14/04/2023
DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.
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