Interview with Ajay Khanna

Ajay Khanna
Ajay Khanna
Founder
Square Fruit
Square Fruit

We follow a slow-fashion model
Square Fruit is a unisex fashion brand redefining style with inclusivity, individuality, and sustainability at its core. Challenging traditional gender norms, the brand blends bold, gender-neutral designs with the rich artistry of Indian craftsmanship. Committed to eco-conscious fashion, Square Fruit uses handwoven textiles like zari and crochet to create versatile, contemporary pieces that transcend societal boundaries. By empowering self-expression through clothing that is both modern and rooted in heritage, the brand offers a fresh perspective on fashion—one where style has no limits, and individuality is always embraced. In a chat with Fibre2Fashion, Founder Ajay Khanna discusses the inspiration behind Square Fruit, its commitment to gender-fluid fashion, the challenges of breaking fashion norms in India, and how the brand integrates sustainability and heritage into its designs while shaping the future of inclusive fashion.

What inspired you to start Square Fruit, and what is the story behind its name?

Square Fruit was born from a personal realisation—why were certain colours, fabrics and silhouettes reserved for specific genders? As a child, I would carefully iron my clothes, only to find my sister had worn them to college before I could. It made me question the rigidity of fashion norms. This, combined with the lack of vibrant colours in men’s clothing, inspired me to create Square Fruit—a brand where fashion is not bound by gender.
The name ‘Square Fruit’ itself is a contradiction—something unexpected, bold, and unconventional. Just like our brand, it challenges norms and asks, ‘Why should fashion fit into boxes?’ It represents individuality, inclusivity, and breaking free from societal constraints.

Square Fruit embraces unisex fashion with a blend of modern and Indian heritage styles. What led you to take this unique approach?

Unisex fashion, for us, is not just about oversized T-shirts or neutral palettes—it is about reimagining fashion so that clothing is not defined by gender but by personal expression. While most global unisex brands lean towards minimalism, India has a deep textile heritage that is rich, colourful, and diverse. Our goal was to fuse modern silhouettes with Indian craftsmanship, ensuring our designs cater to an evolving audience which values both self-expression and cultural roots.

Your brand focuses on breaking gender norms in fashion. How do you ensure inclusivity in both design and marketing?

Inclusivity is at the heart of Square Fruit. Our designs cater to various body types, ensuring comfortable fits that do not conform to traditional gender binaries. We actively involve diverse voices in our creative process, from designers and stylists to photographers and models who understand fluid fashion. Our marketing reflects this ethos— we want to start conversations and not just do usual marketing activities. Whether through interactive campaigns, influencer collaborations, or engaging community stories, our goal is to inspire confidence in individuals to wear what they truly love.

What challenges did you face in establishing a gender-fluid fashion brand in India, and how did you overcome them?

One of the biggest challenges was shifting the mindset that unisex fashion is not just about oversized clothing or monotone palettes. Many consumers associated gender-fluid fashion with androgyny, but we wanted to show that it could also be vibrant, structured, and deeply rooted in Indian aesthetics. We tackled this through storytelling—educating people on the versatility of our designs and how they can be styled across different identities.

Can you share insights into your design process? How do you balance contemporary silhouettes with traditional craftsmanship?

Our design process begins with a concept rooted in individuality and freedom of expression. We take modern silhouettes—like structured jackets, co-ord sets, and fluid drapes—and infuse them with elements of Indian textiles and/or embroidery techniques like zari, kantha, chikankari, ajrakh, ikat etc. We collaborate with skilled artisans from various regions to reinterpret these crafts in a gender-fluid way. Instead of heavily ornate traditional motifs, we incorporate subtler details that complement contemporary tailoring. The result is a collection that seamlessly blends heritage with a global, forward-thinking aesthetic.

How do you source materials for your collections, and what role does sustainability play in your brand’s vision?

Sustainability is not an afterthought—it is an integral part of our brand DNA. We source natural, breathable fabrics like handwoven cottons and linens from ethical suppliers across India. Our dyeing processes emphasise eco-friendly methods, and we work closely with artisans to ensure fair wages and responsible production.
Beyond materials, we are conscious of our production footprint. We follow a slow-fashion model, producing in limited batches to prevent excess waste and encouraging customers to invest in timeless pieces rather than disposable trends.

Your collection names like ‘Genesis’ suggest a deeper meaning. How do you conceptualise and name your collections?

Each collection represents a cultural and emotional shift. ‘Genesis’ was about the beginning—breaking free from conventional fashion rules. Our Genesis collection challenges traditional gendered fashion and marks a fresh start. 
Our collections are always tied to a broader conversation, whether it is individuality, self-love, or redefining identity through clothing. Naming a collection is as intuitive as designing it. It is about evoking emotion and curiosity, making people question and relate to the theme behind it.

What key trends do you see shaping the future of gender-fluid and heritage-inspired fashion in India?

There is a shift towards fluid silhouettes, layering, and mix-and-match fashion where people combine streetwear with traditional elements. Beyond aesthetics, consumers are becoming more intentional—seeking brands that align with their values, whether it is inclusivity, sustainability, or cultural preservation. Another trend is the rise of ‘functional fashion’—clothing that adapts to different identities and occasions, rather than being constrained by labels like ‘menswear’ or ‘womenswear.’

Fashion is increasingly shifting towards digital platforms. What strategies have you used to establish Square Fruit in the e-commerce space?

Social media and digital-first experiences have been key to our growth. We create campaigns through Instagram Reels, and influencer collaborations that spark curiosity. Our website is designed to be an experience, allowing customers to explore styling ideas and see real people in our designs. We have interesting plans to enhance our consumers’ experience digitally.

What are the biggest challenges independent fashion labels face in standing out in an increasingly digital and competitive marketplace?

Building brand loyalty in a saturated market is challenging. Independent brands must focus on storytelling, unique design perspectives, and creating genuine customer engagement to carve a niche.

How do you see the role of gender-neutral fashion evolving in mainstream markets, and what factors are driving its adoption?

Gender-neutral fashion is becoming more accepted as society moves towards greater self-expression and inclusivity. Younger consumers are going beyond rigid categories and embracing fluidity in all aspects of life, including fashion. Social media, cultural shifts, and increased representation in media are all contributing factors driving its adoption. We want to make sure that we blend Indian craftsmanship and bold gender-neutral fashion for our consumers.

With sustainability becoming a priority, what innovations in materials and production processes are helping fashion brands reduce their environmental impact?

From plant-based dyes to zero-waste pattern making, brands are exploring innovative ways to reduce their carbon footprint. AI-driven fabric optimisation, bio-fabricated textiles, and ethical supply chains are playing a crucial role in making sustainable fashion more scalable.

Consumer preferences are shifting towards ethical and slow fashion. How can brands balance affordability with responsible production practices?

Transparency, conscious sourcing, and small-batch production can help brands create high-quality, affordable pieces while maintaining responsible business practices.

How are advancements in AI and technology transforming the design, production, and retail aspects of the fashion industry?

AI is helping designers predict trends, optimise inventory, and personalise shopping experiences. AR try-ons and virtual fashion shows are redefining how consumers interact with brands.

What’s next for Square Fruit? Are there any upcoming collections, collaborations, or expansions?

We are excited about expanding our product categories, introducing gender-neutral accessories, and collaborating with artists who challenge norms through their work. We will soon be launching our Summer and Pride collections in the coming months which will cater to any consumers of gender and sexuality. We are also looking at pop-up experiences in key cities, where people can physically engage with our pieces in an immersive setting.
Interviewer: Shilpi Panjabi
Published on: 03/03/2025

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.