Interview with Adedayo Eweje

Adedayo Eweje
Adedayo Eweje
Creative Director
David Wej
David Wej
Need to put Nigeria on the global fashion map
Launched in 2008, David Wej is one of Nigeria's rising fashion brands offering premium affordable menswear. Creative director David Wej Adedayo Eweje talks to Paulami Chatterjee about the challenges facing the Nigerian fashion industry and how David Wej, a rising premium brand in West Africa, is expanding beyond its shores to find a footing on the global fashion map.

How big is the fashion industry in Nigeria?

Nigeria's fashion market is worth an estimated $4.7 billion and has increased by 17 per cent since 2010. David Wej is a rising premium brand in Nigeria and West Africa.

What would you say is the USP of Nigeria's fashion industry?

The past decade has seen the Nigerian fashion industry grow exponentially in size and sophistication attracting huge global attention. Our fashions tend to be heavily inspired by our ethnicity and culture and the various tribes. We offer unique fashionable textiles that pay homage to prints that were first used over a century ago. A lot of my designs are culturally inspired with a European twist.
What would you say is the USP of Nigeria's fashion industry?

The designer industry in Africa has been making quite a bit of noise recently. How does Nigeria fare in this context?

I may be biased but I think Nigeria has been leading the way in promoting and invigorating the African fashion industry. An example of this has been Naomi Campbell's involvement in the Arise Fashion Week and the continued support of other celebrities and senior figures. There is still a lot of work that needs to be done with manufacturing and retail structure continuing to be a challenge.

How do you see the number of such designers increasing?

I see that there will be an explosion of creative energy and dynamism which is partly fuelled by the global popularity of the Nigerian film, music and fashion industry.

What is unique to Nigerian craftsmanship and fashion?

The way in which we incorporate our traditional prints and infuse those with western elements is uniquely Nigerian - and when this is coupled with the tailoring and hand finishing that we employ in over 80 per cent of our collections, we are able to add something truly exciting to the global fashion mix.

Post pandemic, how do you visualise the fashion landscape to change in your country and globally?

To be honest we continue to hope that the impact of the global pandemic on the continent remains low. Not only in terms of the cost to human life but also because post pandemic, the world and especially countries like the UK (Brexit), will be looking forward to new global partnerships. We feel very excited about the changing economic landscape because these new partnerships will require bold, innovative and high-quality products that will add a new aesthetic to the global fashion market. African designers are ready to meet this exciting challenge and the range of appeal across our collections will only increase.
Post pandemic, how do you visualise the fashion landscape to change in your country and globally?

A lot of dumping of second-hand clothes from Europe and America find its way into African countries. How does this impact the market for brands?

The preloved trade in Nigeria is known as 'Okirika'. These clothes have no doubt had an impact on the country's development of the textile and fashion industry as many people have this misconception that they are buying long lasting quality brands at a reduced price, and so they're reluctant to spend on home grown brands. This is changing however as people become more aware of the need to 'shop local' and the popularity of celebrities wearing domestic brands is fuelling the change.

What is the story behind the David Wej brand? When was it established?

David Wej is an award-winning premium menswear brand that was established in Lagos, Nigeria in 2008. Prior to launching the brand, I had worked in the telecom industry though I always had a strong interest in fashion. My telecom job was very repetitive and I am a person that thrives in a creative environment and loves a challenge, which is how the idea of launching my own brand was birthed. Our London flagship store is our seventh location.

What are the fashion genres the brand is into?

Our West African range and UK range is slightly different as we are catering to different markets. We produce men's tailored suits, traditional wear, kaftan's, loungewear, footwear, accessories and leather goods.

How does your supply chain work? Where are your sourcing bases?

Manufacturing continues to be a challenge in West Africa due to logistical and economic factors and hence why we have had to look to Turkey, Vietnam and China to fulfil our requirements. The majority of our design processes take place at our Lagos headquarters and we try to mitigate our carbon footprint by only ordering a few times a year.
How does your supply chain work? Where are your sourcing bases?

How big is your design team? What factors are kept in mind while designing the garments?

We have a small design team in Lagos. When designing we always have the end user in mind; for us that means constantly connecting with our customers to keep ahead of the latest trends, as well as working with our partners across the African cultural diaspora to develop new collections with fabrics from across the continent.

How do you want to push the diversity agenda with the help of your brand?

With diversity being at the forefront of the fashion industry agenda, I fully support the current efforts to create real change in the industry through well-funded, long-term initiatives, but it's also vital to have dedicated real-life mentors like myself, who give black designers an aspirational target. David Wej is proudly a Nigerian brand. I want to pave the way for other African designers especially during this critical time where diversity in fashion is such a huge conversation. This international move is not just about us expanding as a brand but about putting Nigeria on the global fashion map.

Apart from your recent store opening in London, where else do you want to expand? Which are your major markets worldwide?

We aim to expand to other parts of Europe, the US and Canada. Currently West Africa is our biggest market.

Affordability verses sustainability -- in which direction is the consumer's buying decision tilted at? Is sustainability going to weigh over affordability in the coming days?

Consumer buying patterns have drastically changed. People want affordable quality fashion which is what David Wej offers. We take pride in our craftsmanship and fabric quality. From a sustainable perspective, consumers want clothes that will stand the test of time. However, it does not need to cost the earth.
Affordability verses sustainability -- in which direction is the consumer's buying decision tilted at? Is sustainability going to weigh over affordability in the coming days?

What are your future plans as a company? Any new product or fashion category you would like to move into?

At present we are focused on growing our international market. Our London store located at 38 Great Portland Street, just off Oxford Street, will offer our signature traditionally inspired bespoke jacquard suits, classic shirts and accessories. In future we do plan to open more stores and collaborate with complementary brands and mentor other African designers looking to branch out into the European market. (PC)
Published on: 10/03/2021

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.