Interview with Cecilia Gloria J. Soriano

FIDA administers and regulates, in accordance with law, the licensing and registration of those who are engaged in the trading and processing of Philippine natural fibers including fiber baling, tagging, marking, inspection, certification and shipment of Philippine commercial fibers. FIDA also implements an internationally accepted grading and classification standards for Philippine natural fibers for local consumption and for export which is being enforced by FIDA fiber inspectors posted in different parts of the country. The fiber inspectors inspect the fibers to ensure that the bale of fibers conforms to the set standards before these are traded to domestic processors or exported to the rest of the world.

The different natural fibers produced in the Philippines are the following: ABACA Abaca (Musa textilis Nee) belongs to the family Musaceae that looks like banana except that its leaves are shinier, narrower and more tapering. The abaca fiber is the strongest among plant fibers. It is three times stronger than cotton fiber and two times stronger than sisal. Compared with other fibers abaca fiber possesses the highest tensile strength and longer elongation. Abaca is far more resistant to salt water decomposition than most of the vegetable fibers, making it suitable for rope and cordage manufacture. BANANA Banana plant (Musa paradisiaca) like abaca belongs also to the Musaceae family. Banana is better known for its edible fruit than for its fiber. The fiber is soft compared to abaca and is extracted by decortication and handstripping method. Banana fiber can be made into textile. Banana fiber which is lustrous, and with high moisture absorption is a good material for textile and when blended with other fibers, can be used for making ropes for agricultural purposes. BURI The plant (Corypha elata Roxb.) is the largest palm in the Philippines. It produces two types of fibers which are extracted manually: raffia which is taken from the unopened leaf of buri plant and buntal, which is extracted from the petiole. The buntal fiber is well known for its strength and durability. Buntal fiber is used for hat making as well as other utility and fibercraft items because of its fine texture and pliability. COIR The coconut palm (Cocos nucifera L.) belongs to the family Palmae, an important member of the monocotyledons. The fibers are extracted from the coconut husk mechanically using decorticating machine. It has two kinds of fiber, bristle which is coarse and mattress, the soft fiber. Coir fiber possess a high degree of flexibility and extensibility which differentiates it from hard and bast fibers. Coir fiber is made into mats, twines, ropes and cordage, recently in geotextile. MAGUEY Maguey is scientifically known as Agave cantala, Roxb. which belongs to the Amerrylis family. The fibers are extracted from the mature leaves by retting in sea water and by decortication. Maguey fiber is finer and softer than sisal, another agave plant. In terms of yield in pulp and paper manufacture, maguey is generally superior than sisal but inferior than abaca. PINEAPPLE Pineapple plant (Ananas comosus L.) is a member of the family Bromeleaceae. In the Philippines, a very fine and highly prized cloth known as pina is made from the pineapple leaves of the Red Spanish variety. The fiber is manually extracted from mature leaves by hand- scraping, and is handwoven into a soft, delicate texture & gossamer-like fabrics sought after in the world of fashion. The Hawaiian and Formosa varieties are extracted by decortication. Decorticated pineapple fiber is blended with polyester and used for textile production through the mechanized process. SALAGO Salago (Wiskstroemia spp.) belongs to the family Thymelaceae. The fibers, which are in ribbon form are hard and stiff and are extracted from the stalks by either the direct peeling or the steam process. Salago yields exquisite and lustrous fibers which are excellent material in the manufacture of specialty paper like currency paper, bank notes, checks, bond paper for legal documents, certificates and insurance policies requiring a certain degree of permanence, strength and durability. The fiber is also suitable for the manufacture of stencil paper, handmade paper and other industrial applications. SILK Silk is a natural fiber produced by the silkworm species known as Bombyx mori. It is known as the “queen of fibers” because it is considered the most glamorous of all textile fibers. Owing to its fineness, luster, strength, feel and outstanding dyeing affinity, silk has been the prime materials in the high fashion industry and in women’s lingerie. In the Philippines, this high value fiber is used for men’s, ladies’ and children’s wear and fashion accessories.

Abaca, internationally known as Manila hemp, is our premier natural fiber which enjoys high and sustained demand in the international market. It is the major export commodity among the country’s natural fibers, either in raw fiber or semi-processed and processed forms such as pulp, cordage or ropes, fabrics and fibercrafts as well as furniture. Pulp is semi-processed and is made into a host of specialty paper products, the most notable of which are tea bags and coffee pads/filter papers.

The production is low in the sense that the bulk of the fabrics made of natural fibers like abaca and pina fibers that we are producing are handwoven. By its very nature, handweaving is slow and tedious, thus, the production capacity is quite limited compared to manufacturing using machine or powerloom. Nevertheless, our handloom weaving communities can serve the export market as we have both the quality and quantity which their market abroad requires. We do not have actual figures of its production but the combined exports of handwoven fabrics in 2012 were estimated at 270,000 square meters. Similarly, the production of natural fabrics by powerloom is low since there are only two textile millers who have shown interest in utilizing these natural fibers for textile.

Consumers now have this strong consciousness to using products or fabrics made of renewable resource like natural fibers. Hence, the handwoven eco-fabric is a statement in itself that could capture the interest of the buying public. Aggressive promotion is certainly needed to further create awareness for these natural fabrics not only as a clothing or fashion material but also as a material component for life style products for home, hotels and other establishments. In the Philippines, we have a law, Republic Act 9242, “An Act Prescribing the Use of the Philippine Tropical Fabrics for Uniforms of Public Officials and Employees and for Other Purposes”. The law does not only encourage but compels everybody in the bureaucracy to use the fabrics made of abaca and other Philippine natural textile fibers for office uniforms and other purposes.

Yes, because this creates strong recall and recognition among ultimate consumers. Aggressive marketing likewise creates awareness that could help stimulate demand for both natural fibers and fabrics. Having our farms accredited by a third party certifying body like Rainforest Alliance will also help in ensuring the marketability of our fibers and products in the international market.

The recent developments on the use of natural fabrics for textile is the incorporation of 40% abaca with 60% polyester for abaca jeans, and 10% abaca and 90% polyester for upper garments being manufactured by Asia Textile Mills. The abaca jeans are exported to Japan while the upper garments are distributed locally. The same mill produces functional textile with anti-microbial properties intended for clients abroad. Future works are focused on the use of electrospun nanofibers to produce non-woven mats.

The Government of the Philippines through the FIDA of the Department of Agriculture implements programs and projects supportive of the stakeholders in the fiber industry. *On Production Support o Provide technical assistance to fiber clientele. o Production and distribution of healthy abaca planting materials o Promote the mechanization of abaca fiber extraction through the establishment of postharvest centers’ o Spearhead disease control and management. *On Research and Development o Development of production technologies through the conduct of agricultural researches on crop production, crop improvement, crop protection and on agricultural engineering (soil and water & postharvest); o Conduct research on the development of technologies on fiber processing and applications and on the improvement of fiber extraction process; o Provide fiber quality testing. *On Extension Support, Education and Training o Strengthen farmers’ organization through the conduct of various trainings in partnership with Local Government Units (LGUs) State Universities and Colleges (SUCs), Non-Government Organizations (NGOs), and Private Groups. o Farm or Business advisory on fiber production technology, credit facilitation and packaging of proposals; o Provide technology information materials. *On Market Development Services o Aggressive market promotion of fibers and fiber –based products through participation in local and international trade fairs/exhibits and sponsorship of market –related events like fashion shows; o Establish/strengthen market linkages between suppliers and buyers of fibers and fiber-based products; o Update industry clients through dissemination of trade information and breakthroughs, conduct of stakeholders’ meetings and use of tri-media. *On Regulatory Services o Implements internationally accepted grading and classification standards for plant fibers; o Strict enforcement of fiber grading standards through fiber inspection to strengthen the Philippine position in the international market; o Issuance of licenses to fiber industry participants which include grading and baling establishments (GBEs), buying stations, trader exporter, local traders, fiber processors and fiber classifiers. *On Plans and Policy o Formulate policies and develop national development plans and projects based on the needs of the fiber industry; o Strengthen partnership with LGUs & other institutions; & o Provide industry information either electronically or thru FIDA website to update industry stakeholders on the status of fiber production and market developments.

The country has been exporting Philippine natural fibers and fiber products especially abaca to many countries for several decades now. We believe that being in the fiber business for so many years, the Philippines’ fiber sector enjoys a strong and fruitful business relationship with the rest of the world. Our natural fibers and products through the years, have gained a foothold in the world market which continue to further strengthen as more and more consumers are drawn to eco-friendly materials.