Representing the British Isles, Cottweiler’s winning collection comprises sheer merino wool base-layers, windproof mid-layers and quilted waterproof outerwear, with wool-blend fabrics ranging from 18.5 microns through to 19.5 microns, and recycled wool scraps used for insulation.
The resultant collection brings Cottweiler’s brand of fetish-infused cult and tribe codes into the world of wool, with utilitarian detailing – padded hoods, detachable cargo pockets, running caps, and elasticised hems and cuffs, for example – at its core.
“Cottweiler is working with wool in a highly original way that mixes sports, tailoring, streetwear and fashion, and I think that represents a new dimension in menswear,” said Jefferson Hack, CEO and co-founder, Dazed Media.
“Winning the IWP gives us the opportunity to share what we do with a much bigger, global audience. But for us, the great part of this was the opportunity to work with a different material - Merino wool - because we are always interested in experimenting with technology and development,” said Cottweiler after the win.
Representing the USA, Gabriela Hearst was praised for her technical innovation and quality craftsmanship. Her winning collection presents sleek silhouettes with updates on trench coats, pleats and an evening dress teamed with the more utilitarian baseball jacket with adjoining scarf, one-piece long johns, reversible puffer vest and cycling trousers. Using ultrafine 14.5 micron merino wool for luxurious knitwear, though to 21.5 micron wool to create a wool-velvet fabrication, Hearst’s clean cuts and precision offers a collection set to stand the test of time.
“The IWP gives a huge opportunity to young designers globally. It shows how much you can do with wool as a designer. I was very much in support of Gabriela. For me, she is the worthy winner. I love what she does and she is clearly very talented. I like her eye, she has great product and she is a strong woman. I have a huge amount of respect for her. I am proud and honoured to get involved in this and help make this possible for her,” said Victoria Beckham.
“As a designer it’s a huge honour to be recognised and I cannot wait to promote more Merino wool in the world as I believe it is the yarn of future,” said Hearst.
“Paris is not only home to some of the world's most iconic luxury fashion houses, but also to some of the world most fashion-forward, savvy consumers. Bringing the IWP back to Paris shines the spotlight on fashion's next generation, and I congratulate both Cottweiler and Gabriela Hearst on their well-deserved wins,” Stuart McCullough, MD of The Woolmark Company. (KD)
Fibre2Fashion News Desk – India
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