Interviews
MHI updates on London Fashion Week
09 Feb '08
5 min read
I want to focus on one of the biggest challenges and this was recognised by Baroness Kingsmill and the panel. Medical certification is one of the most radical and ambitious recommendations and one that we agree would have the most benefit if adopted internationally.
Over 70% of models at London Fashion Week are based overseas, employed through agencies outside of the UK, and arrive hours before the shows. Most arrive from New York Fashion Week and go on to Milan and Paris after London.
Model industry representatives advise us that any unilateral action by London Fashion Week will simply mean that models will decline to work in London which is already the least commercially attractive of the four major Fashion Weeks.
The panel recognised these challenges and the potential damage to the future of London Fashion Week, as without internationally recognised catwalk models our designers will not want to show here.
I have written to all of my counterparts in New York, Paris and Milan and met with the Camera Nazionale della Moda (CNDM) in Milan and with the CFDA in New York. Their lack of enthusiasm for an international solution is causing us concern.
The Chambre Syndicale in Paris feels that the issue lies outside their remit and is a matter for the government department that licences model agencies. In Milan the CNDM has instigated a code of conduct with the Italian Government which asks for the provision of health certificates but to date there is no evidence of this being put into practice and CNDM have expressed a preference for self regulation and education.
In New York the CFDA do not believe that US working practices allow for regulation and health certification, but do believe that the route forward is education and awareness.
We on the other hand are committed to moving this forward and in the coming months we will be undertaking a feasibility study with a view to a pilot scheme taking place in London in September 2008. We will monitor carefully the results and the impact on London Fashion Week and share our work with the other international cities in a bid to change their views.
In summary we feel that the MHI has already affected positive change. Designers have offered us their support and are now more aware about the working conditions they provide for models. We are pleased to be working with beat and will be funding the first staff training session on eating disorders for model agency employees and we encourage agencies to build a relationship with beat.
The larger London agencies are leading the way by providing access to nutritionists and mentoring schemes. Together with partner organisations such as the AMA, beat and Equity, we are moving the acceptable boundaries in favour of models and making all those who work with models aware of the issues they face.
Over 70% of models at London Fashion Week are based overseas, employed through agencies outside of the UK, and arrive hours before the shows. Most arrive from New York Fashion Week and go on to Milan and Paris after London.
Model industry representatives advise us that any unilateral action by London Fashion Week will simply mean that models will decline to work in London which is already the least commercially attractive of the four major Fashion Weeks.
The panel recognised these challenges and the potential damage to the future of London Fashion Week, as without internationally recognised catwalk models our designers will not want to show here.
I have written to all of my counterparts in New York, Paris and Milan and met with the Camera Nazionale della Moda (CNDM) in Milan and with the CFDA in New York. Their lack of enthusiasm for an international solution is causing us concern.
The Chambre Syndicale in Paris feels that the issue lies outside their remit and is a matter for the government department that licences model agencies. In Milan the CNDM has instigated a code of conduct with the Italian Government which asks for the provision of health certificates but to date there is no evidence of this being put into practice and CNDM have expressed a preference for self regulation and education.
In New York the CFDA do not believe that US working practices allow for regulation and health certification, but do believe that the route forward is education and awareness.
We on the other hand are committed to moving this forward and in the coming months we will be undertaking a feasibility study with a view to a pilot scheme taking place in London in September 2008. We will monitor carefully the results and the impact on London Fashion Week and share our work with the other international cities in a bid to change their views.
In summary we feel that the MHI has already affected positive change. Designers have offered us their support and are now more aware about the working conditions they provide for models. We are pleased to be working with beat and will be funding the first staff training session on eating disorders for model agency employees and we encourage agencies to build a relationship with beat.
The larger London agencies are leading the way by providing access to nutritionists and mentoring schemes. Together with partner organisations such as the AMA, beat and Equity, we are moving the acceptable boundaries in favour of models and making all those who work with models aware of the issues they face.
British Fashion Council
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