Aquilano & Rimondi create Ferré S/S Womenswear Collection

26 Sep '08

2 min read

GIANFRANCO FERRÉ launches S/S 2009 Womenswear Collection. Clear sense of structure, sophisticated and yet so natural and easy, for shapes are both inspired by geometry and designed on the female figure. Soft, powerful curves. Feminine proportions. Respect for and absolute love of elegance, the spontaneous elegance that comes from self-knowledge and so is never distinct from a secret inner oneiric essence.

This is what modulates the Gianfranco Ferré women's collection for spring-summer 2009, the first under the creative direction of Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi. Fluid and constructed all in one, the collection draws upon the Italian tradition of fine tailoring to define a unique contemporary style which bypasses every hint of folk as it gives life to surprising silhouettes.

Amazing contrasts between line and volume, exterior and interior. Shapes perfectly symmetrical. Light-capturing designs in gorgeous classic fabrics complete with ultratech metallic fibers, shimmering even more thanks to dazzling faceted crystals and iridescent decors which relinquish all inclination for ornamentation in favor of an architectonic – or, better still, spatial – valence in utter sync with the great heritage of Gianfranco Ferré.

Fabrics. Created with Italy's leading textile labs, they are totally innovative expressions of organza, duchesse, gazar and ottoman. Washed and interwoven with high tech fibers, enhanced by lurex detailing to create new plastified textures. Other fabrics include silky jersey and cotton stretch poplin.

Cuts. Ultrasartorial, contrast and layer mode: dome sleeves, boxy hems, origami.

Colors. Neutral hues ranging from iridescent white to ice tone, all the way to iron gray. A severe palette given new impulse by the inclusion of the softest, brightest, unexpected almost opalescent shades.

Ornaments. Plastic elements; asymmetric crystals; iridescent lurex discs; big origami-cut paillettes, gray metal tube beads in a herringbone pattern underscoring and defining lines and volumes.

Accessories. Commanding reiterations of the collection's themes. Shoes with hemispheric heels in plexiglass and metal; otherwise with skinny heels set on metal forms reminiscent of the basic atom's molecular structure. The handbags are in precious leathers with metal details taken from the bijoux, details that are recalled in the design and in the choice of materials on all accessories.

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