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Leather preview by Stahl for Autumn-Winter 2011-2012

01
Jul '10
In many countries, Autumn brings with it a palette of bright, vivid colours which everyone looks forward to even though these colours will soon take on a more sombre aspect as Winter takes over. Stahl's completes its series of forecast with the issue of the Leather Preview for this season, reflecting the changes of nature both in the effects on leather and in its four groups of colour predictions.

These are presented in booklet format, presenting the reader with a wide variety of forward-looking ideas on how leather can best be used to create the anticipated fashions.
Stahl's Design Studio, Bianco and White, has presented the effects and colours in four groups. In each group there are outstanding samples of leather which clearly show the intended effect. Each one has been given an indication of its intended application, and a personal name.

The first, “Ordinary”, is inspired by the 1950's. The style is self-disciplined and modern. Clear and schematic in its approach, nothing is left to chance. Here is elegance and sophistication in a changing fashion that believes in economic regeneration. Smooth glossy effects are one look and at the other extreme is a deeply embossed metallic look. The glamour of red leads colours from grey, through natural tones of yellow, brown and green and sinking into the dark blue of ink.

The “Personal” group represents the need for individuals to express themselves using symbols that communicate their own ideas and help them emerge from the crowd. Inspiration comes from both past and present, blending different cultures and using materials such as cashmere to produce comfort, warmth and softness. Effects are embossed or smooth but without the gloss of the previous group. Colours are similar but replace red and brown with orange and a greater emphasis on blue and purple giving a somewhat brighter spectrum for that added touch of Autumn and Winter sunshine.

A mixture of luxurious and modest styles lies behind the concept of the “Alternate” group. Clothes break away from the mainstream using rigorous and definite cuts. It's a way to live like a rebel without fear. It is inspired by expressions of contemporary art, something which is reflected in the surface effects and textures which are akin to science and architecture. Colours across the rainbow are bright, even in winter. Use of modern tonality means there is equilibrium between science and nature. Biological blue or rigorous black, mixed with retro nuance, create a fascinating blend of alternative colours.

The final group is the “Functional” group, a selection of greys, tans, browns and greens that are inspired by nature, particularly by vegetables, and by the darker shades of minerals. Surface effects are inspired by dried earth and wet dew drops giving life to light. Macro structures are embossed onto surface with light hair. Clothes look towards the practicality of the countryside, towards open spaces and freedom rather than the enclosed spaces associated with the work ethic. Lighter classical and natural tones compete with darker shades stolen from the world of minerals.


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