March 11, 2013 - United States Of America
March 11, 2013 - United States Of America
Suddenly a flock of birds takes flight and is reflected in the mirrored panels of a skyscraper, a reminder of the open sky beyond, of spontaneous movement, of freedom. We watch, on the grid, and let our imaginations take flight.
This narrative tableau was the starting point for the F-W 2013 Kenneth Cole Collection – a vision conjured up by the brand’s home city, New York. From it comes a wardrobe for modern men and women that plays with ideas of surface and depth, of volume and weight. The innovative use of materials, emphasized by the presence of printed lenticular fabrics, adds a futuristic element.
This collection combines the rough with the smooth, the structured with the floating. The mix of historical buildings with the newer structures of faceted glass in Manhattan, all underpinned by that hidden metal grid, gives us cut-out felt in a geometric lattice, coated tweeds and jacquards, metallic-coated knits and sweaters, foiled scuba-style neoprene that looks like vintage leather, and foiled wool that resembles the surface of old walls.
The architectural precision of modern construction is referenced by laser-cut metallic leathers and the combination of the soft and translucent with the heavy and stiff. Skins that look like metal are employed to create new accessories and jewelry pieces, and the hi-tech lenticular printed material helps to emphasize depth and movement.
The motif of flying birds recurs, creating a sense of tension and drama, while the grid of the city streets and the textures of its stonework are ever present. Layering is key, and when these combined clothes are accessorized with metallic-leather jewelry, we get the sense of dress as modern armor for our contemporary lifestyle.
Kenneth Cole Collection Women
The game of contrasting and controlled shapes is played out in different ways –shirt and jacket sleeves are voluminous and then taper off to end in massive gloves; long leather shirts meet cropped baseball jackets; pants that are baggy at the top, narrow to the ankle. There is a move away from classic leggings and pencil skirts to a new shape of skirt that is short and full. Oversize coats become important items for the season, part of a look constructed from multiple layers, as opposed to set-piece dresses.
This is modern, sophisticated street wear, in which the baseball jacket and the bomber jacket have roles as daywear; and leather is used throughout, notably in gunmetal and gold, for jewelry and garments. Very heavy shoes and dramatic oversize gloves, and hats, convey a sense of sportiness. Velvet, used in comfortable pants and shoes, softens the look. The accessories cinch and bind, with a severity that contrasts with thin, floating organza and soft blouses. The use of lenticulars on garments, accessories and bags adds a futuristic note, as do the reflective sunglasses in pewter, emerald and ruby red.
1. Grey tweed zip-out jacket, grey mélange metallic-coated sweater-vest, grey mélange wool-felt slouch pants, black block heel open toe mules, and emerald green leather oversize flap portfolio with metal edge details.
2. Black croco metallic jacquard bomber jacket, white poplin blouse with black mirror-leather collar, black croco jacquard full skirt, black block heel open toe lace-up boots, black leather oversize flap portfolio with metal edge details, and black leather gloves.
3. Grey coated wool-melton overcoat, white poplin shirt with black mirror-leather collar, black pleated lace full skirt, black leather knee-high architectural pointed toe boots, and black leather small camera case.
4. Black leather shirtdress, black perforated leather scarf, black felt hat, and black block heel knee-high boots.
Key fabrics and prints: laser-cut wool and leathers; velvet; coated wool that looks like skins; coated jacquard; basket weave; “labyrinth” print; “cage” print; “bird/cityscape” print; waxed leather; graphic cut-out fabric; shearling; pony; metal-like leather (the flexibility of leather, the appearance of metal); metallic coatings; double-faced wool; knitwear with special stitching on top of a metallic coating.
Key colors: black and white with metallic accents (pewter, bronze and gold); shades of green – emerald, and military green with metallic green; a “pop” of red in makeup and select garments.
Kenneth Cole Collection Men
Kenneth Cole menswear, like the womenswear, has something of a lived-in look. The emphasis is on a relaxed, urban combination of layers and materials.
There is a play on proportions – oversize coats paired with lean trousers and fitted jackets. Bombers are important. Volumes tend to be generous, with the top half of outfits often constructed to look disproportionately large when compared with the bottom half. Suits are teamed with functional outerwear – sometimes even with matching outerwear.
The long parka offers an alternative to the short bomber. Vests bridge the divide between formal and sporty when combined with sweatpants.
Metallics abound, and a dusting of metallic powder is apparent throughout the range of men’s shoes and bags. Fabrics are characterized by texture – felted-wool and wool-flannel are typical. Knitwear comes into its own as a core component of this cold-weather collection. And as in the womenswear, the use of the specially developed printed lenticular material adds a modern edge to the look.
1. Black oversize topcoat, white pinch seam shirt, black perforated vest, snake print oversize slim pants, black leather double-zip high boots, and black soft leather zip-up bag.
2. Black buffalo-suede bomber jacket, black leather and poplin tux shirt, black coated crewneck sweater, black coated jeans, black leather double-zip high boots, and cloud-grey leather hand-held portfolio.
3. Black wool double-breasted speckle coat, black and white micro stripe woven shirt, black pony zip-front bomber vest, grey wool-flannel sweat pants, black leather double-zip high boots, and black clean leather day bag.
4. Oxblood distressed leather four-pocket zip-front jacket, black stretch-cotton spread collar shirt, Bordeaux quilted nylon motorcycle jacket, and Bordeaux wool pleated pants.
Key fabrics: laser-cut wool; stretch leather; coated jacquards; bonded, coated fabrics that look like vintage wool and vintage leather; waxed leather; graphic cut-out fabric; shearling; pony; double-faced wools. Key colors: black, grey and a touch of white; military colors; emerald green; metallic gold, pewter and bronze; ruby red.