John Varvatos brings contrasts together in F/W line

July 16, 2013 - United States Of America

"The world of today is all about contrasts that come together," says John Varvatos of his fall/winter 2013 collection. "I created a bridge crossing an ocean and mixing seemingly opposite universes and different eras: English dandy and New York edge.

Rooted in the character of old world English dandy, the great textures, deep autumnal colours and elegance are blended with a strong dose of New York edginess to create a sophisticated contemporary look for today's man.

“The new tailored silhouette has a subtle hourglass shape and a stronger shoulder while layers have been stripped back to let the fabrics, leathers, yarns and new proportions speak for themselves.

"Brushed tweeds, artisan finished leathers, hand knit sweaters and washed velvet shoes blend to create a timeless yet unexpected mix that is a step forward in the constant evolution of the John Varvatos signature handwriting."

The collection is sophisticatedly rough, with a richly tactile quality. Precise cuts and immaculate tailoring take on a new meaning through the use of fabrics that have been brushed, degradè woven, needle punched, coated, oiled and treated to get an aged patina and a modern lightness.

The silhouette is dignified and proud: strong shoulders and a new emphasis on the waist hint at the composed elegance of the dandy, while slim flared trousers add a dash of urban swagger. Double-breasted and cutaway create elegant lines in movement.

Solemn capes are worn on top of suits; long coats sport washed leather sleeves; vests are worn throughout with an insouciance that is both sartorial and edgy. Eye and touch are constantly stimulated: traditional patterns such as herringbones and checks are brushed away on short coats; knit is bonded with leather on an overcoat to get a firm feel; needle punched shirts mix knit and fabric.

Bouclè knits add more texture, while suits are also cut in knitted fabric. Neckties made of the same fabric of the suits and dress shirts with tonal contrast collars are a touch of sophistication that is contradicted by biker details running along tailored outerwear. The jagged play of opposites is constant.

The colour palette is dense and precious: tones of grey, deep wines, shades of blue, touches of black. Fabrics and yarns are precious, yet deliberately rough: wool, cashmere, alpaca, mohair, leather.

Accessories include aged gentleman's hats, brushed and washed velvet lace-ups and boots, hybrid boots with a gaiter effect. Slim velvet scarves printed with textured motifs and silver chains woven with leather complete the look.

A vision of elegance that is imperfectly perfect and authentic: a forward-looking mix of tradition and innovation.