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German Montex eliminates weft yarn problems for Stamperia

23 Apr '10
3 min read

Italy's Stamperia Valeri takes delivery of its first Montex stenter to overcome weft yarn, stretch and dimensional stability problems it had been experiencing with previous stenters working in Jersey viscous fabrics.

Founded in 1991 as a 'bleach and wash', print, dye and finishing specialist, Stamperi Valeri had relied solely on two old stenters for its finishing operation. Recognising an increase in jersey viscose fabrics meant a new stenter was needed to handle the lighter weights.

The resulting order, placed through Monforts local representative Sacconaghi Monaco s.r.l. for a Montex 6500 stenter was installed in early 2010 and was described by one of its operatives as “Bellissimo”.

According to Production Manager Mr Allegrini the company had experienced “stretch and dimensional stability difficulties with the older stenter.”

“We were also having off grain problems with the light and delicate jersey viscous fabrics,” he added.

“Since the installation was completed earlier this year, these problems seem to have been resolved with the new Montex and, although early days, everything is looking very good.”

Valeri work with a variety of fabrics including cotton and cotton mixes, such as 10% cotton and 90% viscous, and silks, in addition to the jersey viscous.

But it is the latter that are now being finished on the new Monforts Montex stenter, particularly for weights of between 80 – 120 g/linear metre.

The new 6 chamber Montex line also features a Pleva Straightening Unit at the stenter infeed.

Virtually all the jersey viscous fabrics are passed through the Montex up to three times. “The first time after washing to dry and stabilise the fabric ready for dyeing,” said Mr Allegrini, “Thereafter, a second pass is made following the dyeing process and frequently, a third pass to ensure a 'softer hand' feel.”

As a result, the Olgiate Olona-based operations finishing department is working two shifts daily, with a single shift by the dyeing department to complete between 30,000 – 50,000 m per day, five days a week.

Energy savings
The Montex stenters are equipped with integrated heat recovery system, fitted as standard and comprising a compact air-to-air heat exchanger, ensuring up to 30% energy savings; using the exhaust gases to pre-heat the incoming fresh air entering the stenter.

The Montex line also features the latest electrical and electronic components and systems to further minimise energy consumption, even in standby mode.

On completion of its final finishing process, the fabrics, in 80 – 100 m rolls are returned to Valeri's parent company, Gallus for distribution to customers throughout Italy, France, UK, Spain and Germany for make-up into ladies fashion wear.

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co KG

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