ZDHC releases 2021 Impact Report on global fashion sector's eco detox

“By most estimates, we have less than a decade to mitigate many of the devastating effects that climate change is inflicting. Alongside the need to drastically reduce our carbon footprint, we must also urgently address the interrelated environmental crises that receive less attention: the massive loss of biodiversity and the degradation of water sources across the planet. By building ZDHC competence centres on greenhouse gas emissions (climate change), biodiversity, circularity and water stewardship, we are tackling these interrelated problems head on. We must remember that chemistry will be part of the solution: it can help us understand, monitor, protect and improve the environment around us,” said Frank Michel, executive director, The ZDHC Foundation, said in a media release.

ZDHC created a ‘Roadmap to Zero’ programme which provides clear guidance for companies on how to move away from using certain hazardous chemicals in their manufacturing and replace them with safer alternatives. The programme analyses wastewater tests from thousands of factories around the world from hundreds of brands to see how they are progressing on their commitment to zero discharge of hazardous chemicals (ZDHC).

The wastewater tests specifically measure adherence to one of the cornerstones of the programme: the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL). The list bans certain toxic chemicals from being used in manufacturing. Traditionally, substances are banned from (already-treated) water or a final product, so a manufacturer needs to remove or wash out these substances — using more water or chemicals! — after they have made something, to be legally compliant. Instead of this approach, ZDHC tests raw effluent, or manufacturing wastewater, before it is treated, to have a full picture of what is actually being used in a manufacturing process. By preventing these banned substances from even entering the factory gate, they will never need to be removed —keeping the consumer and the environment safer—and wasting less energy, water and resources.

The Roadmap to Zero Programme also tests treated wastewater to ensure manufacturers are staying with conventional limits for clean water (such as pH, colour, temperature, etc).

The Impact Report shares how companies have done at staying within both Conventional and ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List limits. Of the suppliers who reported all their wastewater data in October 2021 (not counting suppliers with missing information), 98 per cent did not have traces of MRSL restricted substances. About 95 per cent of highly toxic PFAS have been eliminated and 85 per cent of manufacturing facilities follow ZDHC Wastewater Guidelines and reporting has doubled since 2019.

ZDHC also works with the chemical industry to bring attention to finding replacements for some of the most harmful substances or pushing for innovative ways to speed the production of good alternatives on a mass scale. Likewise, it educates and holds brands accountable for their responsibilities within manufacturing.

ZDHC aims to create lasting change in the industry by instilling better practices that keep brands in business and consumers happy while still protecting people, biodiversity and the environment. The approach is not to just police ‘bad’ behaviour but teach good practices that can still be effective. The organisation connects companies across the industry on its ‘Gateway’ website so that they can connect with one another and learn from other practices. This kind of collaboration has been and will continue to be instrumental in creating lasting change.

By guiding manufacturers on the importance of water stewardship: specifically, how to safely and effectively clean wastewater, as well as find alternative approaches to certain processes (like dyeing or stonewashing) which traditionally use massive amounts of water. ZDHC holds training, education sessions and creates metrics that brands, manufacturers and suppliers each need to follow (verified by independent parties).

This year ZDHC is expanding its mission beyond water and chemical management to include air emissions.