Fashion re-invents itself from time to time, with some
modern touches fashion breathes from its age old roots. Culture and fashion
have a strong connection and both keep influencing each other making it two
sides of the same coin which is used everyday. Fashion designers are using
mixture of traditional and modern techniques, ideas and views to create new
trends. The fusion of old and new helps sets new trends. China is an age old country with strong history and cultural values which their fashion
clearly connotes, for example age old motifs such as guardian deities, lions
and masks of Chinese opera characters.
Xia and Shang Dynasties embarked the dress system in China which enthused the distinctions as to color, design and adornment of dress among the
emperor, officials and the common people. During the Sui and Tang dynasty the
unity of ancient China and the prosperity of economy provoked a revolution in
ideas, thought process with the dresses becoming more and more splendid. During the Song and Ming dynasties because of the
intensity of the feudal ideology, the patterns of dress and adornment gradually
became conservative whereas by influence from western cultures, the designs
were more fitting and tasteful from late Ming.
An outstanding characteristic of traditional Chinese
clothing is not only an external expression of elegance but it encompasses an
internal symbolism. Today, Fashion designers use a mixture of traditional and
modern ideas to create new fashions. Some of the examples which shows influence
of Chinese culture on modern fashion includes modern bridal tiara based on the
designs from Sung dynasty and the Hunan Province style of embroidered sash made
in the traditional colors of pure red, blue, and green. From these examples, it
can be seen how traditional Chinese dress is the foundation of modern fashion. Chinese
bronze is another source of printed, woven, embroidered, and applied design for
clothes. Some of the distinctive designs include dragons, phoenixes, clouds,
and lightning. Motifs from traditional Chinese painting also end up in woven or
printed fashion designs.
Types of Chinese clothing
There is no uniformity of information as far as the main
dress of china is concerned, different dynasties brought in new forms and
reforms. Different experts claim different dresses as the main dress of china.
However the three main types of Chinese clothing include Pienfu, the Chang-pao
and the Shen-i. The peinfu is a two piece traditional ceremonial costume
similar to a tunic top extending to the knees along with a skirt or trousers
extending to the ankles. The Chang-pao is a one-piece garment extending from
the shoulders all the way to the heels, whereas a cross between the two is the
shen-i type. Shen-I consists of a tunic and a skirt or trousers like the
pien-fu, but the tunic and the skirt are sewed together and essentially one
piece like the ch'ang-p'ao. Out of all the three types Shen- I was the most
widely used type.
Chinese clothing and current fashion
One of the Chinese dresses getting attention from the
fashion community is the cheongsam. Cheongsam is a female dress with
distinctive Chinese features. The actual meaning of the word cheongsam is a long
dress whereas the dress is also known by the name of gipao. There is a
long history behind the name and the dress itself. It is believed that when the
early Manchu rulers came to China they started calling a group of them as
banner people (giren). The Manchu women wore one piece Chinese dress known as
gipao or banner dress. In spite of political changes the dress survived and
later went on to become traditional dress of the Chinese women. Cheongsam has
high collar which is closed with sleeves which can be short, medium or long
depending on the season and taste. The dress is buttoned on the right side with
a loose chest, fitting waist and slits up from the sides which aids in
accentuating the female shape. The dress is easy to slip on and comfortable to
wear. The basic designing of the dress is very simple and it does not require many
accessories to go with it.
The dress transforms itself into different piece altogether
with different materials with varying lengths. They can be worn on casual or
formal occasions. The overall impression the dress creates is of elegance and
charm. Due to its simple cuts and stylish silhouettes the dress is admired by
women all over the world. The word cheongsam is used for male and female dress
both.