Table 2. Processing
outline
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Blending ratios and symbols
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Blends
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A 100% G. 85 / 0% Gr. cotton
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F 100% G. 85 / 0% Acala cotton
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B 75% G. 85 / 25% Gr. cotton
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G 75%G. 85 / 25% Acala cotton
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C 50% G. 85 / 50% Gr. cotton
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H 50%G. 85 / 50% Acala cotton
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D 25% G. 85 / 75% Gr. cotton
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I 25%G. 85 / 75% Acala cotton
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E 0% G. 85 / 100%Gr. cotton
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J 0% G. 85 / 100%Acala cotton
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Spinning system
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Ring
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Open-End
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Ring
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Open-End
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Yarn count
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30s
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40s
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25s
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35s
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30s
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40s
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25s
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35s
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Twist multiplier
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4.0
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Cotton fiber and yarn properties were determined according
to ASTM method by using HVI Spectrum and Micromat. Yarn strength expressed in
terms of Lea Count Strength Product (LCSP) was measured by using the Good-Brand
Lea Tester. Single yarn properties and yarn uniformity, imperfections and
hairiness were measured on Textechno Statimat Me tensile tester and Uster
Tester III, respectively. The results were compared with the Uster provisional
5%, 25% and 50% quality levels (Zellweger Uster, 2001). Fiber and yarn
properties were determined at the Cotton Technology Research Laboratories,
Cotton Research Institute, Giza, Egypt.
Results and Discussion
Fiber properties
Table 3 shows the quality
properties of Egyptian cotton Giza 85, Upland Greek cotton and Acala Sudanese
cottons. Naturally, the fiber quality of Egyptian cotton variety is higher than
the two upland cotton varieties mainly, in fiber strength, fiber length, length
uniformity, fiber fineness, fiber elongation and especially in short fiber
index which reached in some samples of Greek and Acala cottons reached to 18.0
% accompanied by the lowest length uniformity, being 79%.
Table 3. Fiber quality
properties of Giza 85, Greek and Acala cottons
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Giza 85
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Greek Cotton
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Acala Cotton
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Upper Half Mean mm.
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30.2
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27.8
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26.5
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Uniformity Index (%)
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86.5
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82.3
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82.1
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Short fiber index
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7.8
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13.8
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15.5
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Strength cN/Tex)
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40.8
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31.7
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28.8
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Elongation (%)
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6.7
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6.4
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5.8
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Micronaire value
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4.0
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4.0
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4.1
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Maturity
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93
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91
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91
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Fineness
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141
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172
|
175
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Reflectance Rd%
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74.4
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73.4
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74.2
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Yellowness +b
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9.3
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9.3
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9.5
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Mechanical properties
The lea count strength product, single yarn strength and
elongation of open-end and ring yarns spun from Giza 85 and its blends with Greek
and Sudanese cottons are given in Tables 4, 5, 6 and 7. The results indicated statistical
significant difference in lea count strength product and single yarn strength means
of all blended open-end and ring yarns. Giza 85 cotton variety recorded the
highest and superior quality of lea
count strength product and single yarn strength (cN/Tex), while as, Greek and
Sudanese cottons showed the lowest yarn quality. In both spinning systems and yarn
counts, the addition of different ratio of Giza 85 cotton fiber improved the
mechanical properties of the Greek and Sudanese cottons. The fact that long and
strong fiber produced strong yarn held true for the two spinning systems used
in this study.
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