In the present global economy, the future of silk willincreasingly depend on the industrys ability to relentlessly innovate newrange of products. Product development has been a pressing need of the Indiansilk industry and diversification into casual wear to address the changingmarket needs is critically important.
Central Silk Technological Research Institute (CSTRI), Bangalore has been engaged in product development in silk and silk blends. The Cocoon a Product Design, Development and Diversification (P3D) Cell under theinstitute, established with broader objectives of quality upgradation,investment generation, technology upgradation, productivity improvement andemployment generation, is involved in revival of traditional products as wellas development of innovative silk products, meeting the consumer preferencesand market needs. The product range includes eri fleece fabrics, eri dressmaterials, eri shawls, silk non-wovens, silk stretch fabrics, silk-knits, erisilk and wool blends, silk x cotton/linen union fabrics etc.
Silk denim is another such successful effort in thisdirection giving a new dimension to both denim and silk segments of the textilesector. The initial attempt by the institute to develop silk denim using erisilk has been reported earlier (Indian Silk, July, 2005).
Development of silk denim fabrics
Natural silk has been one of the most popular fabricsbecause of its unique properties like, softness, suppleness and strength. Silkis preferred for its lightness with warmth, sheerness with strength anddelicacy with resiliency. Silk fabrics retain their shape and resist wrinklingrather well. Silk has pliability and suppleness that aided by elasticity andresilience, give it excellent drapability. Also, silk being fine and strong,can be woven into light weight denim fabrics.
The denim is a coarse twill weave cotton fabric, alsocommonly known as blue jeans/jeans. Taking clue from the history that denims/jeans were originally made of silk, wool, cotton and linen, an attempt has beenmade to develop different combinations of silk denim fabrics. The mulberry silkof 20/22 denier in 6 and 12 ply organzine twisted and eri silk of 2/60s, 2/80sand 2/ 120s were used in warp. The warp yarn was dyed to indigo blue shade withacid dyes. The mulberry silk in 6 and 12 ply tram twisted and eri silk of2/60s, 2/80s and 2/120s grey yarns were used in weft for development of 100%silk denim fabric. The cotton yarn of 2/60s, 2/ 100 Ne and linen yarns of 40s,50s Le were also used in weft on the silk warp. Further, mulberry raw silk of 20/22denier that can be doubled and twisted in the required plies and eri mill spunsilk yarn available in the counts of 2/40s,2/60s,2/80s, 2/100s and 2/120s Nmand 20s Ne noil yarn can also be used for development of different varieties ofsilk denim fabrics.
Silk denim fabrics in 14 combinations in the weight range of 100 to 300 gsm were developed with 100% mulberry silk, 100% eri silk and their combination with cotton and linen as union fabrics. These denim fabrics were woven on rapier loom having width of 44 inches and 3/1 twill weave. The 20s Nm eri noil yarn was also used in the weft which gave the slub and fancy effect to the denim fabric. The types of yarns used, their counts, combinations and construction parameters are given in the Table.
Product range
The silk denim fabrics were converted into mens shirts, trousers, jackets, kids wear, ladies skirts and tops. The garments were finished with enzyme treatment, acid wash, softening treatment with silicon softener. The silk denim fabrics in the weight range of 100-120 gsm are suitable for mens shirts, ladies tops and childrens garments while the heavier varieties (above 120 gsm) are more suitable for trousers, skirts, jackets etc.
Popularization
The silk denim fabrics and garments were displayed in various exhibitions like Fabrics & Accessories Exhibition in Bangalore, Vanya Silk Exhibition in Hyderabad, Mumbai, Bhubaneshwar and New Delhi. They aroused a positive response from the industry and was appreciated by the technocrats, fashion designers, garment manufacturers, exporters and consumers as well. The fabric swatches and garments of silk denims are also displayed in P3D Cell.
Conclusion
Thus, denims originally considered as rough and tough, and more suiting to work and casual wears are gradually finding their way into fashion wear. The silk denim garments are soft to touch, light in weight, comfortable to wear in all the seasons, blended with the luxury and smooth feel. The eri silk has thermal properties nearly equivalent to wool which makes 100% eri silk denim garments apt for winter. The silk x cotton and silk x linen union denim fabrics are more cost-effective without losing their comfort and silky appearance. These new products will add a new dimension to the denim and fashion world in general and silk and silk blended products, in particular, and open up a whole new range of fabric to the younger generation.
About the Authors:
The first author is presently with the Central Silk Board and the last is retired Director, CSTRI while the rest are with CSTRI, Bangalore.
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