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Dyeing of Cotton Fibre using Marigold Flower as Dye
By :   Papita Saha, Prof. Siddhartha Datta
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Natural Floral Dye Characteristics:

 

For a substance to act as dye, certain condition must be fulfilled:-

  1. It must have a suitable colour.
  2. It must be able to fix or must be capable of being fixed to fabric.
  3. It must not be fugitive after fixing on fabric to be dyed.

 

The flower contains many chemical substances: Carbohydrates, minerals, mucilage, vitamins (especially riboflavin, thiamin), pigments including crocin, anthrocvianin, carotene, lycopene, zigzantin etc.

 

Properties of Marigold flowers: (Tagetes erecta Linn, Tagetes patula Linn) 5:-

 

The flowers bloom from the beginning of summer upto autumn. The flowers contain flavonol - quercetagetol which is a derivative of quercetol. It is accompanied by 2 of its glucosides & luteine (a carotenoid). It also contains patulutol & some ellegic acid which act as a mordant. The flower contain several pigments which appear to vary with the source of material. This flower contain mainly two classes of pigments:-

 

a) Flavonoids, b) Carotenoids.

 

Flavonol is major subgroup of flavonoids. It is present in woody angiosperms & is soluble in water.  Xanthophyll is also present in flower and it is insoluble in water, but soluble in fats & in fat solvents. Quercetagetin have been isolated from Indian types, & kaempferitrin & helenien from Rumanian varities.

 

Materials, Methods & Discussions:

 

Yarn & Fabric:   Bleached cotton fabric is used for the studies.

 

Flowers: Golden yellow Marigold flowers are taken for the studies collected from near market.

  • Aqueous Extract of colour from fresh Marigold 6:

Dye from Marigold flowers are extracted separately in different proportion extraction process is carried out at a particular temperature range. Colouring materials from the flowers are extracted to dyeing the fibre. After the extraction procedure is complete, the flowers are taken out from liquor and they are taken for extraction of dye for second time.

  • Mordanting of Textile Fibre:

The sample of cotton is mordanted before dyeing. For mordanting we use different eco-friendly mordanting agents like Alum, Copper Sulphate, Ferrous Sulphate, Stannous Chloride, Chrome-Alum etc have been used (very low amount).

  • Procedure of Dyeing of cloth:

The mordanting samples are immersed in dye bath for 2 hr at a temperature range of 80 0C and after completion of dyeing; samples are taken out and dried. It is allowed to be aged for a fixed time, and after that soaped with 2g/l non-ionic soap at room temperature for 10 minutes followed by rinsing and line dyeing.

 

Results & Discussions:

 

 

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