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Bio-and Nanotechnology in the Processing of Silk
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By
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M. L. Gulrajani
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Enzymatic degumming is emerging as an eco-friendly fibre-gentle
process where proteolytic enzymes that are effective under alkaline, neutral as
well as acidic conditions are being used. With the local availability of the
enzymes at a reasonable price this process has a commercial potential in India. Being large molecules, enzymes do not penetrate into the interstices of the fabric
and hence are suitable for yarn degumming only. A critical control of the pH
and temperature is required to realize the full potential of the enzymes
requiring use of sophisticated machinery such as the Mezzera yarn-dyeing machine
(Illustration II). Since most of the enzymes are effective at a comparatively
low temperature of about 600C, they are less energy-intensive.

The degumming waste liquor that is rich in sericin content
is being used as a raw material for the production of sericin powder. The
sericin powder is being used in the cosmetic industry as moisturizer, in hair-care
products and also as a sustainable natural textile finish (Illustration III).
Removal of sericin from the waste degumming liquor also substantially reduces
the effluent.

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