Kamdevas chariot is drawn by parrot. Among the south Indian jewellery, the Kirtimukha (lion faced) motif is very popular. The mythical bird gandabherunda (two heads and body) is a beautiful piece of art.

 

Peacock motif too is eye catching as the royal bird is intertwined in the form of a gorgeous diamond studded necklace, earrings and finger ring that is contemporary in its appeal yet has flashes of the eternally traditional motif.

Motifs of Fish make beautiful ornaments of the Head, Neck ear ornaments. It represents the incarnation of Lord Vishnu, and is also one of the eight auspicious symbols, signifying abundance since fish breeds fast. Serpent is the most favorite motif adopted by jewellers all over India. It symbolizes the eternity of cyclic time because of its capacity to discard its skin and its apparent immortality. It also stands symbolic of courage, quick and violent potency.

 

Galaxy Motifs: Sun motif is very popular in ornaments. The sun represents infinite knowledge and is a personification of cosmic order. It also signifies majestic & royal personality.

Moon, stars and crescents have also been widely used in ornaments meant for head and ear. Moon is symbols of gladness and coolness. Crescents is preferable to the full orb as the crescent represents the noblest sacrificer who offers himself day by day to be beaten up by the celestial gods to sustain themselves by him ambrosial digito.

 

Mughal Motifs: The Mughal patronage of the jewellery brought distinct changes to the art of jewellery making. The Hindu designs were gently modified to incorporate various geometrical and floral designs.

 

Hindu jewellery depicts scenes from the ancient scriptures and gods and goddesses formed the main themes. But since the depiction of human figures is prohibited in Islam, the existing art of engraving figures took a back seat. These gave way to floral and animal designs.

The combination of crescent and stem dominated the Muslim jewellery. Earrings had a small stem at the top of a crescent from which was suspended a fish, which further led to a bunch of pearls. These became a regular feature of the Mughal jewellery.

Besides the above stated symbols and motifs, there have been various other objects to be used such as the Zodiac signs, organizational signs & Geometrical symbols, occupational symbols, monograms & logos, fraternal good motifs and source of design, If a designer thinks with an open mind he can realize a deep concept or theme in every art form and the same way he can incorporate & express a variety of themes & motifs in jewellery designs. Magazines, Catalogues, Books, Photographs, visits to jewellery stores, exhibitions & museums are some other useful sources to generate new motifs, but Flowers, Sun, Moon, Stars, birds & animals are frequently used in Indian Jewellery. The heavenly bodies have been source of awe and inspiration for human since time immemorial and no wonder these found a way into jewellery too.

The author is Asst. Professor of Jewellery Design.