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Innovative Printing on Handloom Cotton Fabric
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By
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Sankar Ray Maulik and Priyanka Das
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Abstract
Handloom forms a precious part of the generational legacy
and exemplifies the richness and diversity of our culture and artistry of the
weavers. Tradition of weaving by hand is a part of the countrys cultural
ethos. It represents an ancient craft with rich heritage providing a great
source of sustenance for millions of artisans. It is estimated that handloom
industry provides employment to approximately 65 lakhs workforces directly or
indirectly and about 35 lakhs of handlooms in numerous varieties are scattered
all over the country. The element of art and craft present in Indian handlooms
makes it a potential sector for the upper segments of domestic and global
markets. Handloom sector has been catering fully to the domestic niche and
cheap markets, as well as value-added exports in the international markets and
are still playing a vital role owing to its indispensable performance for the
special quality of products mainly either of silk or of cotton fibres with
adequate aristocracy. Handloom is unparalleled in its flexibility and
versatility, permitting experimentation and encouraging innovation. However, in
the present context of globalization and rapid technological developments,
handloom sector is beset with many challenges and the handloom products are
being replicated on powerlooms at much lower price. There is a need to
strengthen this sector given the employment potential and market demand for
handloom products. Hence product diversification through innovative printing is
very much essential for the survival of this rich cultural heritage of India. Innovative and novel designs can be produced on handloom cotton fabric by adopting
different innovative printing methods without involving costly infrastructure
to create fancy effect on the handloom products for the ever changing fashion
market.
Introduction
Handloom textiles constitute a timeless facet of the rich
cultural heritage of India. Handloom sectors have been acknowledged by everyone
as the biggest source of employment and is a traditional profession being
practiced in India for centuries together. This sector occupies a place second
only to agriculture in providing livelihood to the people. It is estimated that
handloom industry provides employment to 65 lakh workforces directly or indirectly
and there are about 35 lakh handlooms spread all over India. The production of
handloom fabrics is estimated to be approximately 6536 million square meters
during 2006-07 (Annual Report 2007-08, Ministry of Textile) and contributes 16%
of total textile production in India. The element of
art and craft present in Indian handlooms makes it a potential sector for the domestic niche and cheap markets, as well as
value-added exports in the international markets. It is expected that with
increasing population and prosperity, the domestic and international market
size will expand and per capita consumption will increase. The sector has an
edge over the powerloom and mill sectors in its ability to commercially produce
the goods in small volumes, openness to innovations, switch over to new
designs, adoptability to suit suppliers requirement and creation of exquisite
design. However, in the present context of globalization, the sector is beset
with manifold problems and challenges. With the technological developments, the
handloom products are being increasingly replicated on powerlooms at much lower
cost. Hence product diversification through weaving and innovative printing is
very much essential for the survival of handloom sector. Weaving on handlooms
is predominantly cotton; the future yarn consumption pattern is expected to be
equality shared between cotton and other fibres.
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Full Article
About the Author
Dr. Maulik
holds M. Tech in the field of Fibre Science & Technology from Indian
Institute of Technology, Delhi and completed his PhD (Engineering) from Jadavpur University, Kolkata. He has a rich experience of almost 13 years of industrial,
research and teaching experience in the field of Chemical Processing of
Textile. He also had published 30 research and review articles in different
international and national level journals and presented his research findings
in different national level conference and seminars. Presently he is attached
to Visva-Bharati University as Lecturer.
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