Banarasi brocade boasts
of the traditional culture and the narration of rich Indian textiles, which is
true. It has been a substance of admiration for all and
from the times of Kingdoms and Palaces to the todays modish ethnicity.
Banarasi Brocade is said to have
its origin from the very older times like Buddhist period. There is also a
second statement that it has its origins from Mughal Empire during 14th
Century. Women were too much fascinated towards these fabrics, who have been
attiring cottons since long time. Banaras is the center of silk weaving in India since time immemorial.
The work is highly practiced in this region by the large number of communities.
They work on Jaala looms. There were two types of materials, the former being the
kinkhab which had immense weight to wear and was hence used for trappings,
hangings and furnishing. The stuff which incorporated Zari patterns were light
in weight, considered most appropriate for clothing and were considered as
Brocades are the textile which has
a regular weaving where the weft thread passes over the warp normally. Usually,
when a gold and silver thread is densely woven with the textile thread special
threads are riveted in between by omitting along the channel of the standard
weft over a definite quantity of warp threads according to the pattern and omitting
is done regularly through set type of patterns. The heddles so
arranged, on different occasions, elevate and depress asymmetrical threads in
turn, as required in the pattern.
Different Varieties of Banarasi legend
Selects of Banarasi saris that are
available in the market are Tanchoi, Jangla, Vaskat, Cutwork, Tissue, and
Butidar that are made of silk weft and brocaded with additional weft styles in
different outputs with designs like buties, bells, creepers and buttas in the
base or on the border for alluring look. Nuptials are sanctified
with brocade draperies glowing all over the bride. These fabrics hold the
importance of playing a chief role in the most blissfully blessed venerated moments
of our life
Silk Jamdani- The
silk Jamdani is a scientific array of brocade conventionally woven in Banaras and
one of the premium products to come out of the looms of Banaras. Silk
fabric is brocaded with cotton and hardly ever with zari threads. Jamdani is
woven by transfixing the pattern thread between a changeable numbers of warp
threads in fraction to the dimension of the design, throwing the shuttle to go
by the normal weft. This process is repeated wherein the dimension and insertion
of the thread is according to the nature of the pattern. Jamdani is
characterized by complex designs.
Jangla Saree- This
is made by brocading styles in bright silk threads amidst the gold and silver
motifs of the brocade cluster. Jangalas rowdy motifs are amongst the eldest in
Banaras brocades. All over Jal Jangla design to get the stylish work of the
sarees and also used meena work for the decoration of the fabrics. The
exclusive design saree has long duration accomplished work; costly fabrics are extensively
acknowledged during the wedding juncture.
Tanchoi Saree- These
saris are woven using vibrant colours and extra weft silk yarn in different pattern.
This variety is known as tanchoi. The field has a densely spread minute diaper
of Jamawar style paisley. The end panel has large motifs of multiple paisley
forms-one growing out of the other. The borders and the cross-borders of the
end section, generally have minute paisley climbing patterns. Tanchoi fabric
has a momentous eminence in India as well as around the globe.