New Cloth Market
is an art, which results in the transformation of the plainest cotton and
organdie into flowing yards of magic. The word 'Chikan' steps from a Persian word derived from 'Chic', which
referred to the 'Jali' work done on marble or wood. It is also famous as 'shadow
work' or 'white embroidery work', traditionally practiced in the city of
Lucknow and its environs. This review article tried to bring out the presence
and importance of Chikankari embroidery in domestic and international market.
The origin & history and developmental initiatives undertaken for
Chikankari embroidery are summarized. The various stitches & patterns
of Chikankari embroidery utilized in the domestic and international market are
discussed. The Chikankari production process flow chart is explained.
are decorated by various techniques; embroidering, brocading, printing,
painting and dyeing, but among all of these techniques, the embroidering is the
protagonist. In India, there are many popular embroidery clusters like,
'Chikankari of Lucknow', 'Kantha of Bengal', 'Fulkari of Punjab', 'Kutch
Embroidery of Gujarat' & 'Kashida of Kashmir'. Each style of embroidery
differentiates itself from the others, based on its own beauty &
significant value. The 'Chikankari of Lucknow' is considered to be the most
popular amongst these and is recognized worldwide1.
Originally Published in New Cloth Market, Jan-2011
About the authors
B.R.Das is associated
with Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, New
Delhi & S.Hati is associated with Utkal University of Culture, Bhubaneswar,