The most common natural fiber used for threads is cotton. Cotton threads have excellent sewability with little kinking or skip stitching. They are rarely affected by hot needles, which are a common element of high-speed sewing machines, and they even sew well on poorly adjusted machines. Cotton threads dye well, and since they mold to the fabric better than other fibers, they are particularly attractive for topstitched elements.
Combination fibers:
One of the most common threads in use today is a combination of cotton and polyester, which combines the sewability of cotton with polyester's strength and resistance to abrasion.
Thread construction:
Twisted threads:
All natural fibers, with the exception of silk, begin with fibers - short lengths of staple, which are twisted together to make a single-ply thread. Then two or more plies are twisted together in the reverse direction to make a sewing thread with a balanced twist. Without this balance, the thread could not be controlled. Most threads are finished with a "Z" or left twist because the action of the lockstitch machine would cause threads with an "8" twist to unwind One exception is the double-needle lockstitch, which has two bobbins one revolving to the left and one to the right. This type of machine requires threads with both twists. In addition to the natural fibers, polyester, silk, and nylon filaments cut or broken Into staple lengths. Spun polyester thread is the most common.
Core spun:
Core spun threads begin with a continuous filament of polyester, which is then wrapped with a cotton or polyester sheath to make a single-ply thread. Then the two to four plies are twisted together to make the sewing thread Cotton/poly threads have the advantage of better sew ability, while poly/ poly Threads can be dyed in a one-step process.
Monofilament Threads:
Monofilament is simply a single filament of nylon of polyester. It is stiff, wiry, and unravels easily. It is uncomfortable next to the skin and harsh on machines. Available only in clear, light and dark gray, monofilament Threads are translucent and reflect the fabric's color. Monofilament threads are used primarily for blind hemming and surging inexpensive garments and Household textiles.
Textured Threads:
Made of multifilament that have been crimp textured or bulked by twisting, crimping and untwisting, textured threads have a soft Land, good coverage and elasticity. The most common use of textured threads is in the loopers of over edge and cover stitch machines; however, very fine sizes can be used as needle threads on chain stitch and over edge machines. They can also be used as bobbin threads to ass moderate stretch to a lock stitched seam.
Thread Size:
The thread size is dependent on many factors-such as the fabric weight and type, stitch and seam type, machine speed, needle size, end use, and seam strength. Most threads are sized using Tex system or the cotton count system.
Factors in thread Selection:
1. Garment design, type, quality, end use, and life expectancy.
2. Desired strength and durability.
3. Fabric weight and type.
4. Stitch and seam type, number of stitches/inch, machine speed, and needle size.
5. cost
This article was originally published in the February issue of the magazine, 'New Cloth Market: The complete textile magazine from textile technologists.'
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