"Patola"- the supreme among Indian ikats, is a double ikat silk textile traditionally dyed with naturally dyes, producded by Jain weavers of Salvi community says Noopur Sonee.
These double-ikat patola textiles were woven in Patan, Surat and other centers but there are now only two families of Jians weaving them in Patan. Cheaper Patola imitations are woven in single ikat in Rajkot, Saurashtra and in both single and double ikats in Andhra Pradesh in the South.
In India, patola were used as ceremonial saris chiefly by Nagar Brahmins, Hindus or Jain Mahajans (Merchants) and Bohra Muslims, notably in Gujarat and Maharastra. Traditionally, patola were often worn by the mother of groom and it was gifted as wedding presents. But it was rarely worn as bridal saris.
It is a legendary heritage of Indian textiles from North Gujarat. A double ikat silk fabric in which both warp as well as weft threads are dyed into a complicated pattern, it is one of most complex textile- weaving techniques in the world and highly priced fabric.
Motifs and Design:
The designs include leaf forms, geometrical forms, floral forms, architectural forms, flowering plants, creepers, animals and human figures. these included Pan Bhat, Rattan Chok Bhat, NariKunjar Bhat, Phulwa Bhat, Chhabadi Bhat, BohraGaji Bhat, Gala Wali Bhat, Akhrot Bhat, Popat Kunjar, Maharas bhat and Vohra Cheer bhat.
1. Pan Bhat: Mahajans of Hindus and Jain communities were mainly used this design of patola. It has pan shaped leaves in the main field and in the rows. Border was enhanced with motifs of elephant, flowering plants, female dancers and parrots which are arranged in sequence and repeated in compartments.
3. Nari Kunjar Bhat: It means female dancer and an elephant. These main field is designed in lozenges and four motifs are alternatively arranged in some manner. Borders are emphasised with ornamental flowers and enclosed in some compartment from wave.
4. Phulwa Bhat: These designed fabrics were produced with size of 400 cm long and less than 100 cm in width. Main field of this design is adorned by plants with five petalled flowers enclosed in a compartment either a lozenge or a cell while the borders have different kinds of creepers. Sometimes these fabrics are also designed with temple motifs arranged in rows.
5. Chhabadi Bhat: This design is produced with less than 400 cm in length and width 100 or -. Basket design is the key feature of Chhabadi Bhat. In this bhat, main field of the article has floral ornaments or designs which are arranged in circle or ovals as well as in borders. One fine zig-zag band or pan shaped leaves joined to each other by means of crosses. This bhat also has temple motifs. Brahmins of Surat area were mainly wearing this bhat.
8. Akhrot Bhat: This bhat is adorned with wall nut motifs.
9. Popat Kunjar: In this bhat parrot and elephant motifs are produced.
10. Maharas bhat: A design depicting women dancing keeping rhythm with sticks in their hands- typical Gujarat folk designs are produced.
1. Jaitly Jaya (2012). Crafts Atlas of India. Niyogi Books.
2. Ranjan Aditi & Ranjan M.P. (2007). Crafts of India. Handmade in India. Council of Handicraft Development Corporations.
3. Buhler Alfred & Fischer Eberhard (1979). The Patola of Gujarat: Double Ikat in India. Krebs.
4. Patolas and Resist-Dyed Fabrics of India- Manual.
Image Courtesy:
1. Rugrabit.com
2. Mytextilenotes.blogspot.in
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